Schlumpf wheel build Q

[PJ_k]

I recently received a Schlumpf hub, and I am having a wheel builder build the hub into a wheel for me.

I spoke with roger at udc uk and he had said to build it with the frame and not a truing stand.

This wheel builder is insisting on using his truing stand, he explained that it would hold the isis splines in place by putting pressure on the hub inward on both sides and that it would go into the splines by 2mm or so…

Could this damage my new Schlumpf hub?

[mindbalance]

@PJ_k

This wheel builder is insisting on using his truing stand, he explained that it would hold the isis splines in place by putting pressure on the hub inward on both sides and that it would go into the splines by 2mm or so…

Can you clarify if this would be inwards where the buttons go? If so you’d probably want to advise him that there is a shifting rod that is there and in the way. So it won’t easily work and could be risky to the mechanism.

Ideally they should be able to clamp the ISIS crank splines, where the cranks would interface downwards as it were - so that they don’t interfere with the sides of the axle and where the buttons go.

If they can do this, then it is essential you (not them) shift it into High Gear as this will allow the wheel to turn freely while they true it. This is due to the bearings being free to turn and as the torque reaction bearing won’t be clamped in place like it would be in a frame the wheel just spins.

When handing over the wheel I’d recommend removing the shifting buttons and leaving the axle bolts in their place. But have them slightly wound out. This is a bit of insurance that the builder doesn’t jolt the shifting rod or accidentally apply any pressure there.

Do also see if you can persuade them to use washers on the non-disc side flange - as details in some of my videos I believe you may have already seen.

And be 100% sure the put the spokes into the hub the right way round.

Schlumpf 2022 Build Questions

I still haven’t heard from Florian but I do have it on good authority that the spoke heads need to sit on the flat side, with the J-bend being on the countersunk side. This page also back up this point to a T: [image] If I’d have built these wheels myself I’d have gone the other way, based on the visuals of the countersinking matching the heads of spokes. Hopefully this helps people avoid a rookie mistake with lacing etc (Still curious what Florian says, but I now highly…

Meaning spoke heads sit on the non-countersunk side of the flange.

[PJ_k]

So I think it’ll be all set. He wasn’t anticipating that the shift bolts would protrude as far as they do… I left a frame with him and he has three truing stands all of varying design so I think that he’ll make it work okay.

I appreciate the help and the tip about it spinning freely in high gear! That will definitely help the guy out as it is kind of hard to put a fixed wheel into the truing stand.

Thank you!

-PJ