Yes - a 1/2 Magura holder. The shape is good as it clears the central bar and puts the washers closer to the fingers.
It doesn’t really look that outdated to me. The saddle certainly isn’t.
Looks nice, assuming you are ambidextrous for braking. I would be slightly concerned that the handle wouldn’t run smoothly with the asymmetric force, or that it’s pivoting axle would wear out because of it.
You described it very well, it would work as a refererence for someone doing the same thing.
I couldn’t spot it.
Good job all in all, and nice muni!
This sounds like the best argument for running a rim brake instead of a disc brake since it transmits zero stress to the gearing and uses the entire diameter of the wheel for its braking force.
Yeah wearing out the gears prematurely on my £1300 hub doesn’t sound like something I want, but I also don’t want to grind my sexy rim down 
The sooner they make an internal disk Schlumpf the better (Or make those adaptors shown above!)
Soon more pictures as it’s getting ready!
[/QUOTE]
Can you send infos about the making process? I’m willing to have one too!
Thanks for the kind words above.
I’ve ridden this setup intensely for the past few weeks and the wheel has stayed true. I have not noticed any signs of extra stress on the hub.
Yes, my build is sort of half-retro. I really like the KH Zero/One saddle, and the newer tubeless rims/tires (I ride in the thorn capital of the world I think)
The brake handle operates smoothly, but I’ve had other, older Magura handles break on the thin part underneath the bolt mounting the handle to the lever. Its possible my custom brake could’ve caused the break, but the handles were also 30 years old so that didn’t help.
If anyone is interested in more details on 32h rim >>> 36h Schlumpf lacing I’d be happy to discuss in more detail , and/or provide pics. Just PM me.
Schlumpf grease type question
Hi All,
I ran out of Schlumpf’s grease and I wanted to know if the following type of grease is the current one used by Florian: Shell Gadus S2 V220 2
I found the “2” is related to NLGI consistency but wasn’t sure if it matters or not (since there is “0” type as well).
Thanks for the help!
I do not remember the exact reference. However, several riders (including Pierrox) found some equivalent grease that were cheap (in the case of Pierrox it is some transmission grease).
Let’s hope one of them can chime in 
Land Rover swivel grease!
Thanks!
Thank you @Pierrox.
Do you have any information regarding the Gadus S2 V220 00 grease maybe?
I am asking this, because I found a dealer that sells them in small package and reasonable price.
It also appears to be (at least according to Shell’s reference), similar to the Alvania grease which is no longer manufactured.
Last thing I wanted to know is if there’s any need of removing the old grease from the hub before injecting a new grease - especially if they are not the same exact type?
Thanks!
No info on the Gadus Grease, but MuniOrBust form the forums sells Shell Alvania Grease 0974 (formerly Alvania Grease GL 00) in 5ml syringes, which he says is approved by Schlumpf. I’ve purchased it from him and had no issues.
I posted a clearer and more accurate explanation (I hope) of building my wheel with a 36h Schlumpf hub and a 32h rim here:
Yet another ‘Look how much hassle I went through to put a disc on my Schlumpf’ post
So here it is! My ‘older’ Schlumpf (knurled bearing era) with a disc brake, using standard KH stuff and a cheap Clarks-branded disc brake set from Chain Reaction Cycles (Is this their own brand, or just a cheapo Chinese thing?). I could’ve gone a bit higher end on the disc, but as I had no idea if this would even work, I didn’t want to go crazy with it. I had to scrap my rim brake when I built my new carbon wheel as it doesn’t have a brake surface, and I’ve been missing my brake since.
I torqued the rotor-side crank up to 40Nm, which is about as low as their ‘recommended’ specs go. I really don’t like the idea of under-torquing it as I’ve had issues related to that in the past.
This pic is of the bottom bearing cup, filed down to where I thought it had to go to, compared to the frame-side bearing cup filed down to where it all actually stopped rubbing. Pretty ridiculous, and it’s actually scooped out lower than the fork leg itself which is a bit worrying.
This is the caliper mount adaptor thing - the one that came with the brake was miles too thick so I got my file out again and went to town on it. I also had to swap out the stock bolts for this, as the ones that came with it were long enough to reach the end of the adaptor, so once I’d filed it down they stuck out and again jammed up the rotor.
All done and working! There’s no noise aside from what the hub’s always made. I did take this opportunity to take my file to the inside lips again to try and stop it rubbing there as well, so it’s all running nice and quiet for now, and again it’s all torqued up to spec so should hopefully not cause problems!
Link is dead.
Works now. Maybe it was just a temporary thing.
Looks like you have the rotor on backwards. The rotor arms are supposed to be in the leading direction not trailing.