No, everything is fine, look at brake pipe in front of the tyre
I noticed this about an hour afterwards. Will it make much difference?
Probably not much on a unicycle because you don’t produce as much heat to the rotor as you would on a mountain bike which requires more braking force, especially when slowing down from high speeds. You can find several different threads on the topic mostly on mountain biking forums. Here is an example: <<The rotor arms keep outward force against the braking track when braking, keeping it inflated, or pushed outward. If the rotor gets hot and soft, and the disc spokes are backwards, it could collapse inward. Probably not an issue unless things get critical.>>
I did the same on a KH26 a few years ago. Since then I broke the shifting shaft twice under the same conditions (because of the ‘under-torquing’, the crank took some play, the shifting button unscrewed and when trying to shift in hight gear, the shifting shaft broke). I came back more than a year ago to the magura hs33 brake pad.
In my opinion, no version of the schlumpf hub is compatible with a disk brake…
Good luck and take care!
I haven’t under-torqued my hub at all - it’s at the lower end of their recommended range but it’s still up there.
Schlumpf in the frame disc.
Luckily that is just your opinion, eight years with in frame disc on several of mine have saved the internals from reverse tourque damage and provided great braking.
Not to mention that the newer ones have much more clearance crank-side for an EDB setup without anywhere near as much grinding down 
I’m a bit confused about the rear torque damage though. Is using the brake attached to the crank any worse for this than just slamming on with your feet to stop, which is how I’d be doing it without a disc?
Still doesn’t work for me. Maybe it’s a region thing? I’m in The Netherlands.
I’m sorry if I didn’t give more arguments to my statement.
On the one hand, it’s a good thing if there’s more clearance on the new schlumpf hub and indeed if I had a last generation schlumpf hub, I’d wonder a little bit and I’d be tempted to use it with a disc brake to do muni (G26 or G27.5), or maybe to test a future new lightweight 36" rim without braking surface.
On the other hand, the fact that braking on the high speed is x1.5 less powerful than at low speed (in my opinion, it is safer to have more braking power when you ride fast on the high speed… that’s why, on a G36, disk brake and magura hs33 rim brake are respectively night and day), and that it is impossible to downshift when braking, are really uncomfortable when it is a unicycle that you use every day.
internal damage
NO it is not! But the disc I use is attached to the hub using the spokes and rim to do all the braking, not through the gearing as with the crank mount.
As far as this 1.5 times in low VS. high gear braking force, I stop the wheel not the crank!
Ok! You are the one who gave Pierrox the idea! You are the only one who could say “These arguments are not valid for me”. I just saw a picture of your hub. It’s look crazy!
I followed Pierrox’s adventure, but he didn’t seem to have managed to install the brake caliper because of lack of clearance with the spokes… I didn’t know anyone had done it before.
I would like to have this kind of system, but it doesn’t seem to be a pleasure to install…
If I had been aware of your system before, I might have taken some of the frame characteristics into account when I asked jaco_flans to make me my 36" V-frame.
disc hub mount
Sorry I guess I am one of the few, I am sorry for any problems Pierrox is having during his installation. Unfortunatly I have made custom frames for the dozen of these that have been in use so it was not really made for his use dirrectlly. I suggest a coda or magura louise caliper, I could send him one if it helps. Also he could place spacers between the flange and adapter to move the disc away from the spokes My thought is a disc on the hub tensions all the spokes evenly during braking, less stress all around. No stress transmitted through the gears. (Only My Opinion)
Did I just hear my name? 
It’s been summer and I have been away and didn’t make tons of progress. Having said that, I received my frame from Mad4One (disc tabs on the left side) and a Magura Clara. Unfortunately I haven’t sourced a brake adapter for the IS to IS 203mm rotor.
Edit: it’s finally back in stock at chainreactioncycle!
He’s back
[QUOTE=pierrox;1707090]
Did I just hear my name?
Hello, If you need one of those trim calipers I have an extra of either for you!
Lobbybopster
Thanks!
I’ll let you know when I receive the one ordered last night.
Narrow caliper
OK, let’s get it on the rubber side down.
My schlumpf hub is laced in standard 3 cross with the leading spoke’s heads on outside of flange. This is opposite from what’s on the Sheldon Brown website. Is there a difference between leading spokes in unicycles vs. bikes as far as whether those spoke heads are on the inside or outside of the flange?
Here is the quote from SB website: “Since thekey spokeis a trailing spoke, it should run along the inside of the flange. The head of the spoke will be on the outside of the flange.”
I don’t think it makes any difference, even on a bike. The idea was that as you pedal, the trailing spokes pull and get tighter, and the leading spokes “push” and get looser.
And since the spokes bend a little where they cross over, the spoke that gets tighter will tend to straighten out a little, moving either outward or in. So you might as well make it move inward, away from the derailleur.
But it’s going to be a tiny movement, and on a unicycle or disk brake bike you have torque in both directions anyway, so it’s going to be a wash (if it moves in when you pedal, it moves out when you brake).
The only thing I worry about is making sure that when I relace a wheel, the spokes go the same way as before, to avoid weakening the flange with new indentations.
yes, I meant to bring up that last point thanks for reminding me! So the main thing is to install new spokes in the same flange holes as before with heads of the leading spokes on the outside of the flanges as before. That should result in the exact same lace pattern.
Disc rotor adapter
I’m willing to make an adapter like Lobbybopster ones.
Do you think it will be too much risky to screw it to the torx screws without touching spokes? It will be more easy to find a disc which just needs new holes to match those screws avoiding to machine a completly newadapter