For a Nimbus 29" Oracle w/inboard disc and a Dominator 2 rim my #'s are 27 on the left and 21 on the right. (about 150kgf on left and 75kgf on right)
I’m learning myself and received help from Jtrops on the forum. I’m running a 3" tire so there isn’t much tolerance for an untrue rim.
From what I understand there is a ballpark tension for wheel size but the rim will confirm the maximum kgf it will tolerate.
Thanks for answering. This will be a symmetrical build, so right and left spoke tension will be the same. I’ve heard that the rim will confirm the maximum tension too, but the hub is quite expensive so that’s my main concern. I can’t find any information about spoke tension for the 29" Domintator2 rim at the UDC UK site either.
I’ve been there before.
I asked the same question to roger from cdk uk when I was bulding my former geared 29er with a kh schlumpf m6xx and a kh rim.
Roger told me between 20 and 22 on the park tool should be fine.
Later, when I built a g36 from the same hub and a dominator 2 36" rim I used those numbers again.
The rim can take more but the hub is another story.
Note that I don’t have a 4xx but a 6xx, I don’t know if the 4xx is more fragile or not.
Thanks UniDreamerFR. I’m not using this one for muni, so probably less stress on the hub if just the spoke tension is even.
Having spoken to Florian, and done some math, I settled for 19 MAXIMUM when I built mine. Which is what I found on lots of bike wheels too, no need for too much tension. And I agree: even is the most important thing. On mine I’m at 18 to 19 on every spoke.
Ok, thanks. So I’ll be aiming for 19 then. Is that a 29’er pierrox? Is there much difference in spoke tension between 29 and 36? I think I will check the spoke tension regularly on this uni.
My plan is to use a KH 2014 frame with 137 Spirit’s and a disc brake. Hopefully this will work. The hub fits, but I will use a grinder on the inside of the frame to get a little more clearence. Don’t think it is quite 1mm. Not sure if the disc setup will be a problem, but I absolutely do want a disc brake on this one.
when I built the 36" wheel I put about 20 but some pokes got very loose, realized it recently.
this time I have put between 22 and 25 and checked the wheel was true enough.
with such numbers I still have some side to side flexibility when I pull or push the tire toward a frame leg, but less than if I put less than 20.
I have a 26" (non geared) wheel where the spokes are tighter : about 27 and the wheel has got less play.
I also have a non geared 29er, the spokes are tight at about 20-22, and it is easier to make the brake pads touch the rim if I pull/push it.
So, for those who use magura rim brakes it’s a good thing to limit the side play, otherwise you’ll have to put the break pads further from the rim, if you don’t you’ll probably have it rubing against the rim on incline or during tight turns , or with big road camber I guess , but if you do you’ll have less max braking power.
With the G36 the max drops I do are at curb’s height, so I think it’s ok.
you, pierrox, have an older shlumpf hub, so maybe your flanges are the one that are more fragile.
you, UniMyra you have a 4XX, you probably should ask to florian what are the max numbers for 2mm steel spokes.
Yep that’s on a 29" and I have it in a KH frame. The one with the wider crown for fat tires, though it’s overkill for the narrow rim I’m using!
You might have to grind a little if it’s a newer hub with the woodruff (it’s not wood though, but I don’t know the name) which prevents the geared side from slipping. Mine is an older hub and it was plug’n play. Can’t put a disc on mine as the cranks are close to the frame, and spacers are not recommended on a Schlumpf that was not meant to use them.
Large rims should not have too much tension, they should have less than small wheels. Long spokes are more likely to stretch under tension than shorter spokes. Don’t forget that once you’re on the uni, you add a lot of tension to the spokes as you are suspended to the top of the wheel from the hub (in summary).
I’ve sent the question to Sclumpf, but I don’t think I’ll wait very long for the answer.
I think I will start with 19 on the tension meter, and see how that feels. I’ll keep a close eye on the wheel to see how it goes.
I am also thinking that if the spoke tension is too low, there may be to much stress on some of the spokes (and that part of the hub) when you ride, but I don’t know.
Regarding the disc brake. Nathan Hoover showes in this video how he modified a KH36 frame to make a Sclumpf hub/disc brake setup work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gtZzcXD2W0s
I’m hoping to do the same.
Cool mod!
Pretty straight forward. I would only worry about the D-Brake being weakened as they removed quite a bit from it. Adding a reinforcement rod like Eric did would be a good thing.
Great handlebar btw!
My frame (KH 29 2014) has a disc brake mount so I don’t have to worry about the D’brake. I checked yesterday, and it looks like everyting will fit. I will probably do a little grinding on the inside of the frame to make sure. 0.5 mm should do.
I’m curious to know the effect of a crank-mounted disc as opposed to a hub one. If the wheel is in high gear… surely the disc is going to require a different amount of power to when it’s in low gear, because the cranks are geared down from how the wheel is turning? 
I guess it’s not an issue in practice, and you’d just learn to apply more or less pressure depending on the gear you’re in, but just sounds really unintuitive for me 
Also, I had a quick go with the torque wrench today - first time I’ve checked the bolts since I set the hub up, and it all seems solid! I’m REALLY worried about stripping the ISIS bolts though. With the shifting rod, I feel like I can’t quite get a good enough ‘grip’ with my allen bolt, and had a few slippages.
As these bolts don’t seem to be standard ISIS bolt-sized (in terms of the hex key socket), how is it I’m looking at getting replacements, should the need arise? Is there any way I could replace them with bolts with a proper ISIS hex socket, rather than the smaller one?
I’ve not had the hub too long, just a couple months, so I’m sort of looking towards the future of this component of it and getting worried.
Yes I worried about weakening the adapter too. I think it really depends on your riding style. I use the brake sparingly, and never crank hard on it. Others who brake really hard will surely bend the D-brake, weakened or not. The extreme is Chuck Edwall who loves riding really fast and cranking on the brake so hard that his body is at a 45 degree angle briefly as he slows down.
For me, I am still using the same D-brake we modified for that video back in 2012. Since then it’s done over 5k miles and hasn’t bent or had any problem.
Note that there are two versions of the dBrake. One is a bit more chunky than the other. I can provide photos if you’re interested as I have one of each.
Please do! Is it an evolution of the d-brake?
Yes Pierrox, they are 2 versions of D-brake, second one is reinforced
Same for me when I took the crank out to install the disk rotor.
I did not take the opportunity to compare to a regular ISIS bolt but my feeling was that it should be fairly the same if you manage to drill the center to let the rod through 
I would love to make the experiment but I need to find a friend with a press-drill in order not to murder the bolt (or whatever will maintain the bolt up when trying to hand-drill).
since when is it available? UDC (UK and GER) only shows the standard one that I have had for years now.
I think design was improved long time ago