Schlumpf 36

I am going to be ordering the schlumpf shortly. Before ordering it though, I have a few questions (I’m planning some more).

  1. How changeable are the cranks that come with it? I know that they have to be his special ones, but is it possible to order another set and change them?
    I am going to order the 150s, but I might want to switch down to 125s sometime in the future. What tools would I need to swap out the cranks? Has anyone done this on a schlumpf before?

  2. To anyone who has ordered the schlumpf: what shipping/delivery mode should I choose? What is a safe but not too expensive way of shipping?

  3. Again to anyone who has ordered one: What is the safest way to pay? (his site lists several options)

  4. Should I go ahead and get a V brake? I would rather have hydraulic, but all his frames already come with vbrake threads so i might as well get the V brake instead.

Seeing as how he does not offer the full unicycle, just the frame, hub, cranks, I am going to have to buy the coker wheel separate. I have never built a wheel before, so I will be taking it to my local bike shop to build (the stockton wheel would be nice, but I am already going to be investing a lot of money). I am going to buy the airfoil rim on, and some spokes on Hopefully the local bike shop can figure out how to build a wheel around the schlumpf hub. These spokes will work right?

Hopefully if all goes well and I order within the week, I will have my 36 schlumpf put together by early january.

I haven’t changed the cranks yet, but I think they use standard cranks, you just need a special tool to take off and change them, which comes with the uni.

Ask Florian Schlumpf what’s available for you, he can give you several options. On the order form, you probably want to select economy post, which I think will take about 2 weeks from when he sends it.

Credit card.

If you need a brake, get it or another v-brake. We don’t have many hills in MN so I didn’t get a brake at all. Though I may try to put a not-yet-to-market mc2 brake on mine.

I don’t know if those spokes would work. The hub dimensions are much different than the other hubs available. I haven’t heard of anyone making a Coker out of the schlumpf yet, so you’ll have to get the dimensions and then call UDC to see if that works with the hub and airfoil rim.

I think you’d be a bit nutty to ride a geared up Coker on 125s anyway, so I’d stick with the 150s. As Gilby notes, there aren’t many hills in MN, so it depends on the riding conditions. If you have lots of flats and few hills, go for the 125s.

I’m not a big fan of changing cranks on a guni, tho I don’t mind it on a regular unicycle.

I’m jealous! I wish it was in my budget this year to get one. I think you’ll go plenty fast with 150’s. Personally, I 'd probably go even a little longer. Geared up with 125’s, you probably won’t have enough leverage to push the wheel in 1:1.55 mode. I can’t wait until you start writing some reviews!

You need a crank puller as well as a funky little nubcap tool which Florian supplies. It seemed a bit fiddly but Florian assured me it was easy. It didnt’ take much longer than changing a standared crank.

I picked it up from The Schlumpf Workshop in Vilters. It’s probably the most expensive way to do it, but certainly the most fun and rewarding. Florians a great guy and an awesome host. And you get to ride it in the Swiss Alps.

Credit card or Wire transfer.

V-brakes are plenty strong on a mountainbike. I don’t know if you need more stopping power on a unicycle. You might get slightly better modulation with a hydraulic, but not worth it IMHO.

No way! You’re spending so much on a wheel already don’t waste it by using substandard spokes. The only ones to go for are the Stainless Steel variety- about 250g lighter and doesn’t corrode like the old steel spokes. If you add a 250g weight saving from coverting to a tubeless kit, then you pretty much cancel out the extra weight of the geared hub. It’s noticeably more agile, and accelerates and declerates much better- you’ll need it when geared up so high. Wheels are the most complicated part to build up (apart from the Schlumpf Hub- which you don’t build). It took my bike mechanic 4hrs to build it up. Normally takes him 40min to build a wheel.

Dave Stockton makes nice wheels with Tommy Miller Stainless Steel Spokes. If that’s too pricey, at least get the Tommy Miller spokes and find a good wheelbuilder (you local bi-cyclists can usually point you in the right direction).

Good luck. One other thing I didn’t realise- there is already someone with a Shclumpf 36". If you look up Hans Fiby on the Laos Unitour website give him an email. He should be able to answer you Q’s more in depth.


Wow!! Is he bringing it on tour? How will we keep up with him :slight_smile:

No, I think he is ordering a 29" Schlumpf as well which he will be using if it arrives before LUT.

Of course, what we should do is pester him to bring his 36" Schlumpf so we can check it out. Hopefully we’ll get a photo of it shortly to put up on the LUT equipment page.

No one has built a Schlumpf hub into an Airfoil rim for a Coker yet. If at all possible get Dave Stockton to do it for you. You have alot invested in the unicycle alone. Dave will do it perfectly. The spokes will be non-standard. Your bikeshop will have a difficult time getting the spokes and they won’t don’t the high-quality job that Dave will. Dave can get the stainless steel spokes specially made to the right length. And I will repeat, he will build the wheel perfectly.

Dave did der Uber Coker wheel for Kris. It was non-standard and Kris, Dave, and I wanted it done right.

Not quite Harper, it’s been done as of last week. Hans Fiby has it :sunglasses: . Check out the specs including the spoking pattern on the Equipment page of the Laos Unitour website:

Re: Schlumpf 36

On Wed, 30 Nov 2005 17:57:50 -0600, GizmoDuck wrote:

>> It took my bike mechanic 4hrs to build it up.
>> Normally takes him 40min to build a wheel.

What causes the difference?

Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict

“erectile function trumps public image - David Stone, commenting on the importance of seat comfort”

Re: Schlumpf 36

On Wed, 30 Nov 2005 15:35:37 -0600, siafirede wrote:

>1) How changeable are the cranks that come with it? I know that they
>have to be his special ones, but is it possible to order another set
>and change them?

My Schlumpf is on order with two sets of cranks (150 and 170).
Schlumpf supply their ‘own’ type of cranks but I was given to
understand that any regular type of cotterless cranks should work.

>Hopefully if all goes well and I order within the week, I will have my
>36 schlumpf put together by early january.

Put HOPEFULLY in capital letters. I ordered my 29’er Schlumpf on 1
March and it still hasn’t arrived. Delivery after nine month sounds
doable - my wife did it twice.

Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict

“erectile function trumps public image - David Stone, commenting on the importance of seat comfort”

You’re keeping secrets from me to make me look ignorant. I have had great success doing that on my own so far. It is thoughtful of you to help out, though.

Too bad! Still, I think it would be frustrating touring on a geared 36er with a group of people on non-geared (or smaller geared) unicycles. I think it will be interesting enough to see how the v43" unicycles compare to cokers.

Thanks for all of your responses. I am looking into local wheel builders right now. I emailed Dave as well to get a quote, so it looks like I am going to be planning a little bit more before ordering anything. I might just go with the stockton wheel for this geared 36er (if it is possible), but I have to look into all of my options and into my wallet.

Thanks again, and I will keep you all posted on how it turns out.

If you get a Stockton wheelbuild on a geared 36’er, you will have one of the nicest unicycles around, that’s for damn sure.

My local bike shop built my Large Marge Muni no bother, but he wouldn’t (couldn’t?) do my Coker (qu-ax) wheel when I replaced the hub.

I was replacing the standard qu-ax hub with a wide cro-mo hub and had been told that the stock spokes (that came with it) would do fine. Roger from UDC-UK told me this, also that UDC-US sells them like this, they just swap the hubs.

But Mr. Bike Shop didn’t think they would be long enough and refused to do it on the grounds of safety - he didn’t want to build a wheel that in his mind was gonna fall apart and possibly hurt me.

UDC-UK built it up, I trued it, it’s sorted. I even took it round to the bike shop to show him, but he stuck to his original reasons.

I think it’s the size that throws them, most bike mechanics/wheelbuilders have never even seen a wheel that big.

So, siafirede, if you’re gonna get your bike shop to build it, check before you order all the parts in case he turns out like my bike shop.


Schlumpf 36"

Is the new Schlumpf hub wider? I remember before the Schlumpf’s came out the consensus was they were not wide enough for a 36" wheel.

Schlumpf hub flange width is 51-52mm.

Reluctantly, because I’m losing business to do so, LiveWire is taking the position that the Schlumpf hub is too narrow for a 36" wheel. It would result in a wheel with improper geometry. Although the Airfoil rim would provide a lot of stiffness, the resulting wheel would not be properly built, and excessively flexy and weak. It’s even marginal for a 29er wheel. A wheel built with this geometry, with whatever skill, will tend to rub on brake pads and frames in general use.

By comparison, a Suzue (61mm), Profile (62mm), KH 2005 (67mm), or even Harper hub (60.3mm) are 60mm+. A rear track hub for a bicycle is on the order of 63mm (Suzue Promax) - 80mm (Phil Wood).

It’s my opinion that 100mm flange-to-flange, like the widened Suzue (101mm) first pioneered by Chris Reeder and subsequently produced by GB4, then by Tom Miller, or the UDC Coker hub (100 mm), is the appropriate width for a 36" wheel for general use. I imagine that I would also share Pete Perron’s position that 80mm is acceptable as well for general use (hard hill climbs, use of brakes, etc), though I really do think that 100mm is more suitable. In Pete’s 2nd generation case, his brake is a centrally-located disk brake, which eliminates the issue of brake rub, and leaves only the issues of frame rub (much less restrictive) and overall strength (plenty for road use of a geared unicycle).

If I remember correctly, the stock Coker hub was on the order of 50mm, and the excellent QU-AX hub is at 55mm, both unacceptable.

This opinion is not the result of lack of experience with larger wheels, but based on such, and based on the year-long project that resulted in the prototype Strongest Wheel, still going, er, strong. In that project, I found that, even when using a wider hub and Airfoil rim, the rim would rub on the brake pads. Not till I raised the tension to the highest appropriate for the rim and geometry did that problem go away.

To have a good wheel, it’s not enough to have a properly trued, uniformly tensioned and highly tensioned wheel based on good components. It’s important to have good geometry as well.

As a result, I’m restricting my own builds with the current Schlumpf hub to 29ers and below, and feel that the hub is most suited for 26" and below, given the present flange width. I know that there exist 36’s with this exciting new hub, and that people are enjoying them. I just have to draw the line somewhere.

Similarly, if someone, looking to use the wheel off-road, ordered a 36" wheel with a Profile hub, which I support wholeheartedly, I would build it with caveats, but would try to steer him or her towards a KH, which is wider. A wider Profile or KH would be ideal, but in the quantities required to get a special order, impossible for LiveWire at the present, not to mention technical restrictions on axle length and the like. I would not want to use a Suzue (little justification when the wider hubs are available) or a Qu-ax (too narrow).

There might be special circumstances that dictate exceptions, such as for track use only where wheel strength is less important and brakes are not a consideration.

I know that this position is not universally shared, and I apologize for any inconvenience that my holding it causes. I look forward to the next evolution of the promising Schumpf product to see how it develops.

In the meantime, there are lots of cool projects in the works and to come. Working with Scott Wallis is a real pleasure and there’s lots of fine riding to do, with great people, here in Texas.

Thanks, Greg, for your words, so pleasing to the eye to read.


I am Hans Fiby. I do not post to this forum often, as I am not a native speeker, but I read regularly.
I have built a 36" Unicylce more than a year ago. It was nice to ride, but had some flaws. I ordered a 29" Schlumpf this spring and still have not got it. I was in Switzerland this summer and met Florian Schlumpf and tried it out. I could shift almost instantly and loved to ride it. I will be in Laos next Janury and I did not have a unicycle, that was solid enough for this adventure. So I got a little nervous.
In november I asked Florian to send me a geared hub and a frame for a 36" unicycle and I got it a week later. The wheel was built by my local bike shop, my friend Andreas here is a good wheel builder.

For everyone interessted: The wheel consists of a geared Schlumpf hub and an Airfoil rim. The spokes are standard Coker spokes from UCD. The wheel is built with a 4 cross pattern. It feels very solid. I have a V-Break. The break works fine, there is no rubbing.

The selfmade hub on my old 36" uni was 10 cm wide (flange to flange). So I do believe in wide hubs, but I do not see or feel any problem with the Schlumpf. I only ride on tarmac.

How does feel?
I am not a very good unicyclist, so your milage will vary; but it is not easy to ride in fast mode. There is a very small slack in 1:1 mode and a bigger slack in 1:1.5 mode. After a few minutes, the 1:1 mode ist like a normal coker - relaxing!
I can mount almost 100% in 1:1 mode; I can mount almost 0% in 1:1.5 mode.
I trained 4 or 5 hours now, I can shift up and down. Shifting down is easier for me. I UPD in about 15% of my shifting operartions. The percentage gets better and better.
Riding in 1:1.5 mode needs a lot of concentration. I cannot look on the cycle computer by now! The feeling is very similar to my first rides on the coker 1 1/2 years ago. I do not UPD in 1:1.5 mode (too often), but it is hard to stay on.
I have 140 mm cranks. I think, I will get used to the uni and riding in 1:1.5 mode will get easier over the weeks. I keep you updated.