So I’m not super often on the forums but I do end up seeing posts like those And I’m here to support #Steelisreal. Steel isn’t super heavy, while it is heavier than alloy, it’s not a brick VS a feather. Get this out of your brains hahaha. The 36er full build with the steel frame is lighter than a stock KH36! Yes it has a carbon rim, and some other fancy stuff, but the difference is pretty big (I dont have the numbers on hand at the moment sorry).
That steel frame I made is 877g, that is powder coated with bearing caps, bolts, intergrated seatclamp and double brake tab.
The Qu-ax RGB, the lightest, is 640g, Kh36 is 810g, Nimbus is 765g.
The difference isn’t huge already, add a single bolt clamp (Salsa Lip Lock at 34g) to that and the difference isn’t that big at all.
I’d be really curious to try it as steel should make it a stiff and responsive ride. Too bad I build in Canada and @Unikev lives in UK hahaha.
Steel and alloy ride differently, for bikes I’m always going to choose steel over alloy. For unis I still have to try it out and feel it. I’ve been stuck on my old alloy frame that doesn’t want to break…
I can confirm that the flansberrium 4130 steel weighs 6.3kg ok this is with a carbon fibre rim.
I have a KH cranks, outboard disc, nimbus steel 36 hole hub, hope brake, madforone saddle handle the long version, the pedals are hope F20, The tyre is Vee TMonster which weighs 1600g as the T monster is the only tyre I believe at the moment that works with the nextie rim.
I believe a stock KH36 claim the weight to be 7.65kg.
As @jaco_flans has already mentioned about the frame weight there isn’t much of difference between steel and aluminium.
I rode it a couple of weekends ago now and it’s a stiff frame, very responsive. I rode it for a total of 7miles and it was amazing, I was surprised on how it handled for a 36” I was concern about the size of wheel but I had nothing to worry about. Just need to learn how to make tighter turns on it.
So let’s keep it real and go with steel.
If anyone wants to have a try it out message me and we can try and sort something out, like Jakob said I’m in the UK in Devon.
“Yes it is custom production before
official T-Monster.
The history is that the few enthusiasts
in US have decided to have perfect 36"
tire, take the pattern of the year (the
winner of MTB tires, I don’t know exact
year), diameter and other
measurements and asked every
producer around the globe. Only Wee
were willing to produce a small batch
(about 300 pcs). I was asked too and I
took 30 pcs from this production. The
next season Vee decided to launch T-
Monster. It exists thanks to a few US
unicyclist.…
I thought they use the same mold, it is
new information for me that weight is
different. Maybe it is the same mold but
less material…”
Here…we…go…
Got my invoice from Florian and paid my 50% deposit. Pre-June 2022 price.
I always wanted a Swiss mechanical watch but could never justify the cost. I do only have a mechanical watch though. I can justify to myself the joy I anticipate I will get from Florian’s mechanical mechanism.
Thanks for the advice on this forum.
Now to get the frame - Oracle 36” ( Maybe Flansberrium frame later) spokes (unicycle.co.uk spoke calculator ok for length calc?), seatpost, Vcx crank with 114/140/170 (using 170 to start with. I need to strengthen ankles, sitting here with mild sprained left ankle from 127mm crank descending steep incline without brakes)
Going to reuse parts from my KH36. KH Freeride saddle, dominator rim, nimbus nightrider tyre, brake calipers (will they fit the 203mm disk with current bracket?), alloy pedals. Aero bars.
I feel pretty much the same here. Going to enjoy the shipment arriving from Schlumpf Innovations - an amazing Swiss Christmas… err summer, and I think far more rewarding— both intrinsically as a magic, mechanical object, as it will be for physical challenge and exercise, than a Swiss watch
Yes the UK UDC spoke calculator should be good for spokes for the new hubs. Make sure you select the 125mm hub variant for both disc and non disc sides (presuming you’ve got the wider hub)
I think they came out for me as 362/360mm but double check. I’d perhaps hold off buying spokes until the hub arrives so you can take real world measurements. If you’re taking apart a current 36er wheel you might find you have enough space on the spokes from that wheel to get a bike shop to down cut them and roll fresh threads on.
I’d personally recommend using KH Spirit cranks at least to start with - as the recessed button will give more confidence re accidental shifts. Can run zero Q cranks later on I’m sure but for starting I think the curved nature of the KH ones work the best with Schlumpf hubs.
Caliper should fit - you just need the right IS adapter. I find these a pain to fathom but basically you want a Front IS to Post Mount adapter for 203.
Thanks so much mindbalance.
Yes, I got the 125mm. Great to hear I can re use my 150mm KH spirit cranks… I guess the wide stance with them on 125mm hub will be ok to deal with, especially if it saves me from accidental gear shifts.
So I guess I can look for the brake mounting bracket at bike websites/stores?
Oh, should I order from Florian extra Grease. I wonder if fishing reel grease might be ok?
You should be able to get it locally and a ton more for a lot less cash. I got several tubs of the stuff which will last me until the year 2080 or thereabouts
Try searching for “Front Post Mount to IS 203” locally online or ask in a LBS.
It needs to be front and look something like this one:
I never enjoy finding the right one. It should be easy but at times it feels like you’re going to buy the wrong thing as there’s so many different types.
It can feel a bit too wide for some. But with practice I find this can be learned to feel normal.
Here’s hoping shipping isn’t delayed with these pre-June priced hubs
@Unicyc
Some bike shops have boxes of the mount adaptors and will give it away for free. I went to Blackman bikes in Parramatta and the mechanic just let me have whatever I needed.
The current bracket holding the brake calliper to the KH36 frame might fit the oracle 36 frame? Actually Oracle 36” use 180 rotor and KH36 uses 203mm rotor, so will need another bracket.
The Brake calliper is also “handed” to suit external disc on right side.
Theoretically it will suit an internal disc on the left side?
I’ve always used the same brake for an internally running brake or external…
As to disc size, 203mm may also work on an Oracle, but I don’t know for sure.
[quote="[Wiki] Where to buy Schlumpf Grease - Overview, post:1, topic:271199"]
SHELL ALVANIA GR 0974
[/quote]
Great, I can get Shell Gadus S2 V220AC Grease 450g locally for AUD11.00
and now I understand the adaptor brackets are easy to get and not expensive online locally or i might try Gockie’s advice and check out that bike store.
When you say “next bunch of hubs” - you mean the first run of these 2022 hubs right?
Time to reschedule my wheel build slot. I may push it until August at this rate.
The term mid-year does confuse me a bit as that would sound like end of June - but that’s not happening. I read this more like an unknown length of delay - 1 or 2 or 3 months more so I’ll be happy if there’s some summer left to ride with the new hubs. Better to be pessimistic at this stage and have the shipment surprise you I feel.
I’m in the same boat. I need to get much more comfortable on the 36er before adding a Schlumpf hub. However, I feel the drive to buy one sooner than later.
I just can’t decide yet whether to buy the freewheel. Actually, I have and the answer is “no”. But, I’m not willing to concede that I have no place on a free-wheel unicycle of any size.
At this point though, I think a Schlumpf fixed 24 would be great!, but I have yet to see any evidence that a geared 24 is better than a fixed 29. This is a blatant request. PLEASE PROVE ME WRONG.
Also, maybe a Schlumpf 29 is the sweet spot? Regardless, I can’t fret over where the sweet spot is, if I don’t have a Schlumpf hub.
So, I am back to “fixed, or free-wheel?”. I keep ending up at the same conclusion, where the answer is “Yes”, meaning “both”, but really knowing the answer is , “Fixed”.
I think that many of you might understand my thought process.
Can’t help with the freewheel decision as I ordered my 125mm schlumpf hub without.
My foray into freewheel was to build a 20” freewheel unicycle with a Madazz hub. It has a brake disc but no calliper yet. I played around with it on gentle grass slopes. If I get keen on free wheeling, I’ll get a dedicated unicycle for it. Mad4one Flick Flocks are currently sold out.
With the schlumpf hub not having function to disengage the freewheel…yet, it is not for me.
My intended use for schumpf hub is for commuting - there are hills that I can manage with 150mm crank, and then I would like a bit more speed on the flats. I’m finding that shorter cranks don’t suit me.
And I’m here to support #Steelisreal. Steel isn’t super heavy, while it is heavier than alloy, it’s not a brick VS a feather. Get this out of your brains hahaha. The 36er full build with the steel frame is lighter than a stock KH36! Yes it has a carbon rim, and some other fancy stuff, but the difference is pretty big (I dont have the numbers on hand at the moment sorry).
