I’m not very surprised by that decision. 32h and 125mm would no doubt have been such a tiny percentage of setups.
Every manufacturer has a 100mm 36" frame now too.
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That’s very true in the sense of being super niche within a niche.
I’ve been however advised by Roger in no uncertain terms that the 100mm hub for a 36er is just too narrow for a strong spoke angle and that the 125 option is in effect the only safe option with this new disc style hub.
It has basically killed off the idea of a Braus rim and the 125 hub. So in a way it has simplified what was a bit of a dilemma.
Just wish UDC had black 36er rims in stock 
DM me. I might be able to help out with that.
I’ve got a spare.
While I don’t necessarily disagree with this, it’s really going to depend on what you’re doing with the setup as to whether it’s strong enough.
I’ve still not actually heard of anyone having issues with an internal disk on a 100mm 36" despite the fact that it isn’t as strong.
I’m not convinced that even with carbon, 32h is the way to go for a 36", so hopefully in the future there will be more options there too.
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Oh boy, so you’re going for 125mm and 36h rather than 100mm and 32h?
I have no opinion on how many holes a 36" carbon rim should have. Today the rim I use has 32 holes and corresponds to my expectations, so I adapt the rest of the unicycle accordingly. 
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Yes this killed off the Braus rim option 
for me as I do agree with Roger that the spoke angles on the new 2022 100mm hubs look very shallow/bad for a 36er. Worse than the BrakeFast from what I gather.
I’d have loved the carbon rim combo but I’d not be able to commit to it at 100mm 32h. Too much £… too much background worry and risk.
82mm verse 56mm between the flanges feels better and I know I can train myself to accept the wider Q factor / stance.
This gives some extra insights into the tension ratios coming from the 100mm hub on smaller wheels.
For the 29” an asymmetrical rim helps compensate a bit there. But again it seems a bit of a bad ratio.
I don’t know enough to say how bad so leaving that with my wheel builder
Yes it is annoying, it requires playing with the limits of acceptable spoke tension on the disk side. There are risks of spokes breaking or loosening…
There were quite a few spoke breakages with the BF but it seems to me that it was not only related to the unbalance of tensions. Maybe there will be less problems with the new schlumpf. 
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I hope it all works out. Happily on <=29” wheels we can get double butted spokes. For my 29” they’re going to be CX-Rays which should make a difference in terms of mitigation any issues.
If this wasn’t a geared build I’d worry less. But it is expensive if things go wrong.
Can’t wait to see these hubs in the ~flesh~ metal 
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The Q-factor on an Oracle 36" and a KH36 are very similar due to the difference in cranks. The Qu-Ax 36ers have a narrower Q-factor, but the benefits definitely only exist for some people. Others may well be far better suited to even an Oracle with KH Spirits in order to get a wider stance to better suit their legs and hips.
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Purchased hub from Florian, and Hatchet from UDC. I’m stuck considering lacing options. I bought spokes to do a “standard” 3-cross on both sides, and bought an extra set so I could do a radial-heads-in on the disk side. I may get much better tension balance with the radial option. I’m also considering splurging on the Jones 29" c-Rim because of it’s 6mm offset. Feedback?
I sadly don’t know enough to be able to say if radial was good / bad idea, but my gut says for Schlumpfs better to have 3X.
My 29” schlumpf wheel builder is going with 3X I believe and I’m using an asymmetrical rim with just a few mms off set. He seems confident that he’ll get a great wheel built and I’ve shared all the design details I have.
I should just say, although I’m sure you’re aware. The Hatchet is 125mm so you’d need that version of the Schlumpf hub.
This time round we have that option, which is great!
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While we’re on this topic however.
Does anyone know the recommended spoke tension for schlumpf builds?
Seem to recall reading lower than normal unicycle wheels, but this might have changed / have to change with the new hubs.
Does Florian in fact ever spec tension numbers for his hubs? Or do we go with what the rim manufacturers say?
I’m likely going to drum it into my wheelbuilder that the hubs have at times been a tad delicate in the flange / spoke hole department. Unless I’m over worrying on this. 
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I wouldn’t have thought that radial spoking on the disc side was a good idea as the braking torque has to be transferred to the rim. That said, braking forces are probably not so big on a unicycle compared to a bike, but nevertheless…
I came across this, which seems quite useful:
http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Disc_wheel_Lacing#Shimano_Recomendations
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Not sure about that. When you’re riding at 30+ km/h and you need an emergency brake, the whole braking forces are transferred through a single wheel…
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Good point – I guess I’m just using my own frame-of-reference where I still have to be pretty light on the brake.
An interesting quote from the link above: “Any wheel lacing pattern must be designed around braking, not necessarily driving. Breaking forces are tenfold driving forces.”
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I don’t think a lot of unicyclists are able of an emergency stop using a brake. I remeber most of the forum members wrote me against my idea of using the brake as an emergency stop while riding in high gear and told me that 99% use the brake only for descents
No way i can do an emergency stop by brakes, but i once saw a great video of someone doing just that, on a 36 i recall. Full speed, then weight really far back and hard braking. I’ve search but can’t find the video again, really impressive stuff.
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I was in fact recently thinking of creating something that blocks the brake lever from being completely closed - as I think my fear of using it at times comes from not wanting to accidentally yank it hard and UPD or worse.
I’ve always understood brakes on unicycles are mainly as a descent assist / drag brake, but for geared wheels there are going to be other benefits.
This has gone a bit off topic, I know - but may tinker at some stage with a soft rubber bung or ball type block. That never allows me to fully lock my disc brakes on the rotor.
I don’t know about the average unicycle rider, but I’d assume the average mountain unicycle rider 
is able to and would to instinctively use the brake for an emergency stop 
as he or she has a good amount of experience with braking and shifting weight.
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I’ve personally always doubted the importance “drive side”/disk side specific lacing. I think hub shells should be rigid enough for it to not make much practical difference on which side the spokes are. Especially on something with a big diameter like Schlumpf hubs, but even on slim hubs I’d be surprised to see any significant twist through the hub shell, I think any advice on this is because of pretty theoretical considerations. (" Mixing" the orientation for rear wheels/unicycles makes sense to me however, i just doubt it matters which side goes where…)
I’d personally lace it like a rear wheel with shimano recommendations, although I also suspect that peak breaking forces will typically be bigger than peak acceleration.
I’d guess that radial lacing could probably be fine (and offer a slightly stiffer wheel), but I’m a simple guy, I’d stick to 3 cross and call it a day. I have no proof or source for it, but I’ve always considered 3 cross to be more robust against impacts like stones hitting the spokes from the side.
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