Thanks for this! My belief is that the push to go with 6mm was from Kris for his frames. I could have got that mixed up, but that’s how it seemed to me.
I think the 8mm hole was seen as being too big and weakening to the bearing mounts.
Now looking back I wish I’d just had Jakob leave them I drilled as it would have taken a few minutes to drill. But hey ho!
I’m even wondering if using some epoxy putty might be almost better than using the shim:
Quiksteel 16402 Aluminium Reinforced Epoxy Putty, 2 OZ Amazon.co.uk
I could effectively fill in the 8mm hole. Let it cure and then carefully drill back to 6. This still might now be ridge enough for the spigot.
Perhaps there would be a way to install the putty that it could fix and block up the back of the bearing mount void. And then into the 8mm (blocked) space I’d be more confidently able to glue the nice little shim.
Once the shim and hub are installed, I very much doubt it would work itself free, as it has some depth to it, and there’s be a decent fiction for, not to mention the fact that nothing in this spigot area is moving.
I’ve even wondered if I could re-drill the 6mm hole rotated round by a few mm - it wouldn’t be in the dead centre of the bearing mount, but still on the forks.
Maybe I could even find a aluminium welder who’d be able to drop a blob of aluminium solder or whatever is used in this line of work, to allow me to have the metal there again to drill to 6mm as if it had never been drilled?!?
I know Jakob suggested to me before the shim option came up from Florian, that I could drill the hole in the bearing mount cups.
This previously go me thinking why this idea wasn’t the one Florian went with. Why is the hole in the forks?
My belief is that A) the fork side is stronger, and B) and more importantly, by dropping the hub into the frame’s forks and getting the spigot secured there, and then tightening the bearing caps, you’re not concerns of any shift pressures in the spigot. Whereas if you were trying to line up the spigot to the suggested hole in the caps, and then add the forks down on top, you could risk some weirdness as you tighten the caps - as while they’re a nice snug and even fit, it could happen that when one tightens the caps this happens unevenly and works to try and push the bearings (via spigot) out of alignment.
Does anyone notice I’m clearly an over thinker?
It’s funny how such a small issue and change in specification can in fact cause a bit of a headache to solve.