Not exactly that, but I will check with my bike shop. They would know better than I would.
Sadly that looks like it only has the routing for brake hose.
Does it have two tabs for disc brakes on the left and right?
I am guessing it is the new version - so it would be ready for an inboard disc which what the BrakeFast system sets up.
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Ya, I had a feeling it wasn’t that. Yes, 2 tabs for disk. This is from the shipment that Unicycle.com got in December, so it would be the new version.
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Mmm if your wheel is already built then I’d say just ride it without any brake, esp if you’re new to riding a Schlumpf.
Once in the zone and hooked - then you can look at the process of either taking wheel apart and rebuilding with a BrakeFast or take the calculated risk of filing and using the outboard KH Spirit cranks system.
Both options require work and modifications. BrakeFast is a bit harder to achieve but you have the second tab on this frame so that part is much easier.
You have options - so that’s good 
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Thanks for this response and sorry for not acknowledging before.
I can see the logic here and fingers crossed the tension works out nicely in the end. Just wish there were double butted spokes long enough for 36” wheels.
This is also good to hear - and thanks also for the response!
It did get me wondering if the spokes braking could mean there’s a risk of a flange hole being ripped open.
Where did they break out of interest?
My pondering here is that in some ways I’d rather the BrakeFast were damaged than a new £2700 hub’s shell being ruined. (But if this is unlikely then it’s just a case of dealing with spoke replacements and the like.)
If I’m not much mistaken the weak flange holes were on older generation hubs so all being well these 2023 versions will be even more refined / reinforced 
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Sometimes they break on the BrakeFast holes, other times next to the nipples.
Sure. This should have been resolved since gen 3: 📜 [Wiki] Schlumpf hub serial numbers reference
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I think for me, the spokes always broke at the J-bend of the spoke.
On the latest version (800-1000) of the schlumpf hub, the flanges are screwed to the hub body. If they are damaged, they can be replaced separately.
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Thanks both. That’s great to know! These are going to be a big jump forward in terms of build quality from my 200 series 
Hello everyone 
Does any one here have a good simple idea on how I can secure this small shim into the 8mm holes drilled into my Flansberrium frames?
I will also ask for @jaco_flans input, given that he’d likely have a clear understanding on if a glue would be viable / safe to use.
The shims fit perfectly but as there is a void below into the fork legs, there’s a risk that it could just fall or be pushed right the way through and be lost forever, rattling around.
I am thinking that holding the shim on a small wooden dowel or pencil end, and then applying an epoxy glue to its edge and the inside edge of the hole, might work.
I’d then aim to push the shim into place upwards, with gravity helping ensure it doesn’t go into the void.
It doesn’t need to be massively strong. Just don’t want it to get lost or end up being pushed in should I ever take the wheel out of the frame and then reinstall it.
Looking at the shim, I’m also now convinced this is needed as I’d not be comfortable running the hubs with their 6mm blocking nub, in an 8mm hole 
I even wondered if there was some kind of expanding foam or substance I could use to block up the void so that the shim was going into a firm/blocked surface.
Well, any ideas welcome 
Thanks
I would go the other way and glue it to the spigot on the hub?
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Thanks for replying! I see what you mean, but the hub is meant to be 6mm and the frames were the oddity here, being drilled to 8mm when that was the word on the sizing (First they were 6, then 8, then back to 6)
In short I don’t want to tamper with hubs as they’re correct.
Hmm, that’s certainly a bit of a dilemma.
I think your idea of expanding foam might be a good one. Just fill up the end of the frame leg. Weight addition will be negligible and it’ll block it up nicely.
No matter how you glue in this spacer I’d expect it to work loose eventually and end up inside your frame, especially if your unicycle ever ends up upside down.
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Not fun dilemma. I don’t have any great ideas for a permanent fixture. It seems to me logically that if you would put any expanding foam or similar in there it would not prevent the shim from entering the leg as it would be soft and the forces are probably quite strong on the blocking nub. So if it started moving it would probably just wiggle itself into the foam/frame.
Wonder if the reason that 6mm ended up being the final size was that it is what (likely) makes the hub fit in a Mad4One frame. Or just because it’s simply strong enough to have a 6mm nub.
Hopefully I can soon confirm if the M4O frame fits the hub without drilling.
(and update the wiki with info 📜 [Wiki] Schlumpf 2022 Hubs - Frame Compatibility ⚙️ - it’s currently a bit outdated as it assumes the nub is 8mm)
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Thanks for this! My belief is that the push to go with 6mm was from Kris for his frames. I could have got that mixed up, but that’s how it seemed to me.
I think the 8mm hole was seen as being too big and weakening to the bearing mounts.
Now looking back I wish I’d just had Jakob leave them I drilled as it would have taken a few minutes to drill. But hey ho!
I’m even wondering if using some epoxy putty might be almost better than using the shim:
Quiksteel 16402 Aluminium Reinforced Epoxy Putty, 2 OZ Amazon.co.uk
I could effectively fill in the 8mm hole. Let it cure and then carefully drill back to 6. This still might now be ridge enough for the spigot.
Perhaps there would be a way to install the putty that it could fix and block up the back of the bearing mount void. And then into the 8mm (blocked) space I’d be more confidently able to glue the nice little shim.
Once the shim and hub are installed, I very much doubt it would work itself free, as it has some depth to it, and there’s be a decent fiction for, not to mention the fact that nothing in this spigot area is moving.
I’ve even wondered if I could re-drill the 6mm hole rotated round by a few mm - it wouldn’t be in the dead centre of the bearing mount, but still on the forks.
Maybe I could even find a aluminium welder who’d be able to drop a blob of aluminium solder or whatever is used in this line of work, to allow me to have the metal there again to drill to 6mm as if it had never been drilled?!?
I know Jakob suggested to me before the shim option came up from Florian, that I could drill the hole in the bearing mount cups.
This previously go me thinking why this idea wasn’t the one Florian went with. Why is the hole in the forks?
My belief is that A) the fork side is stronger, and B) and more importantly, by dropping the hub into the frame’s forks and getting the spigot secured there, and then tightening the bearing caps, you’re not concerns of any shift pressures in the spigot. Whereas if you were trying to line up the spigot to the suggested hole in the caps, and then add the forks down on top, you could risk some weirdness as you tighten the caps - as while they’re a nice snug and even fit, it could happen that when one tightens the caps this happens unevenly and works to try and push the bearings (via spigot) out of alignment.
Does anyone notice I’m clearly an over thinker? 
It’s funny how such a small issue and change in specification can in fact cause a bit of a headache to solve.
Had you thought of gluing the shim to the hub with a glue that would soften again with the application of heat? (red Locktite?) That way with something like a solder gun you could always heat and remove the shim again in the future if moving the hub to other forks (or indeed leave it there and drill the new fork hole to 8mm).
Seems that if you go with the principle of not gluing it to the hub you are giving yourself lots more headaches.
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You know. I think after all you and @MuniEmu were right all along here.
I can also see that removing this small alu shim from the steel bearings and nub wouldn’t likely be that challenging.
You could even file it off if you needed to get it back to native 6mm.
I’d initially balked at the idea of doing anything to my precious hubs, but a glue that is removable would be spot on.
Think I’ve got some red locktite but when I used it before it never seemed to work. But that was likely due to not having an airtight seal.
I may end up going with a thin application or super glue as again I think you’d be able to get it off if needed. With loctite I tend to slightly worry it could leak or seep into areas it shouldn’t.
But thanks. This does in fact seem like an avenue worth investigating
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No you are not - you just want options and do the right thing. I have a tendency to just try something and then re-think it afterwards. Not always a great idea as not everything is reversible 
I also think the solution with attaching the shim to the hub with something that can be removed with heat seems like the best idea so far.
(I just received my tracking number from Schlumpf so I’m also a “tiny bit” excited…)
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Woohoo 
I can well imagine. It’s great to see them all flowing out to their new owners.
You’re building yours yourself right? Was it 29”?
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Yes I will lace the 29" wheel myself. I have all the parts ready - also for the rest of the Unicycle / although I will borrow the custom (M4O/ISM) saddle setup from my regular 29" or my 36" as it will probably make it easier to feel comfortable if only the gearing is new.
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If the shim (6 by 8mm bushing) fits loosely in the frame my suggestion would be to have a new bushing custom made so that it is a friction fit in the frame. A new bushing could be made with a little flare at the top so that is fits into the chamfer of the hole in the frame and this would prevent it from slipping into the frame too far if it works loose over time.
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