I thought you were talking about Florian, which probably doesn’t have the experience/capacities to make such a disc. And I don’t think BrakeStuff makes floating discs. Se we’d have to find another company 
Oh, I had not realised that BrakeStuff did not do floating rota’s. Due to the PCD of the schlumpf disc bolts there is less than normal flex for expansion of the disc when it gets hot, a floating rotor would deal with that.
3 Likes
1 Like
Ok, here are some more pictures. I think the spokes they used are a bit thicker at the bottom (I had the wheel built, didn’t do it myself).
That’s annoying because I already had to return the wheel once because they mounted the spoke head the wrong way round even though I pointed them to the part in the manual where it says how to do it…
1 Like
Thanks, sounds like I have to get washers…
That might help… as I do personally this it is best with washers in NDS.
But I’d be curious to know if @Joris had this kind of issue and come to think of it it seems like their build is closer to your set up.
(Hope you won’t mind me tagging you into this Joris!)
Really hope we can figure this out and get you up and running @r4nd1nt 
3 Likes
Except for the wider rim that’s very close to my setup, yes.
Thanks for digging up all those helpful posts and people. 
2 Likes
No, I didn’t have this problem myself. I used the 2mm spokes from einradladen.com (which I believe are the same spokes as from unicycle.co.uk), without any washers. The clearance I have at the non-disc side between the spokes and frame is somewhere in the 0.5-1mm range.
1 Like
Thanks so much for the info Gocup!
The first Bike shop I found in Sydney had an upmarket spoke machine was going to charge me $2,50 per spoke which was ok, until he told me his machine couldn’t cut and roll spokes that long.
He was good enough to recommend another bike shop in Cremorne who was amazing and charged me just for the time to cut and roll 44 spokes (15minutes - $AUD.30) I’m so grateful for that! The job included cutting through the thread and continuing the thread from existing. And to think I was considering buying a spoke cutting/threading machine for AUD200+
He mentioned he builds bikes for some high profile Aussie cyclists and was a nice guy.
Looks like I will be building the wheel myself as no bike shops have stands for 36’ wheels.
I don’t mind, I have built wheels before. Yes, will use the frame as a stand.
Do I have to use specifically spoke head washers?
Can I just use any washers I find that have hole just slightly larger than spoke diameter? I guess the material needs to suit the schlumpf hub. Brass only?
I know of a spoke supplier online in WA Aust.
So shopping list remaining for my G36" build:
138mm crank
2 mm spacers
Pretightening axle bolts ( found some)
KH Tee bar set ( just to use the L brackets and TBar sleeve) I might make these myself, possibly.
Shimano XT brake lever and calipers
Aero bar (enclosed or two bent bars) might depend on if I can mount the brake caliper on enclosed aero bars.I think enclosed Aero bars seem to handle ground impacts better? I put a tennis ball on the end of my current enclosed aerobars.
For pedals, I’m going to re-use my KH stock welgo pedals. I really like them… nice and grippy even after taking off the pins. And robust. I avoid pins on pedals…( my best scars…on my calves can attest to that)
1 Like
Great to hear the spoke cutting story. Nice that it was sorted cheaply in the end 
UDC UK used 13g washers like this:
Whereas for the smaller wheels Ryan from RyanBuildsWheels used 14g from Sapim I believe.
But anything that looks like those pictures I think would do.
I would probably disagree with you there – they have to be the proper size for the gauge of the spoke so that the spoke head sits in them properly. Likewise you don’t really want something too big or it will probably end up not being fully concentric with the head of the spoke and won’t look very good and annoy you every time you look at it.
2 Likes
Hi @Unicyc - I got my brass washers from that WA online spoke supplier, and they seemed OK (like the pic from @mindbalance ). Regarding where they are needed - NOT on the disc rotor flange which is way too thick, in fact I had gotten 36 brand new spokes of the correct lengths, but found that the disc side “head in” spokes would be very stressed when bent in towards the center line of the rim as the J-bend part was short (yes, spoke specs can vary in many ways, and bicycles normally have thinner flanges), so I had some old unicycle spokes re-cut and threaded, because they had a slightly bigger J-bend dimension, better suited to the thick flange (so now some of my spokes are black, as I used a mix of spokes - the originally newly purchased spokes were better suited to the “head out” situation). The angles would be different on your bigger wheel, but it would be worth double checking early in the lacing. I guess considerations like the size of the J-bend could influence whether washers are used as well.
I decided to use just one layer of Schlumpf rotor spacers, I maybe could have got away with no spacers, but the spacer layer meant the caliper pad adjustment was pretty much in the middle of its movement in the slot. I used the original 12mm Torx screws to install the rotor, with red Loctite.
My brake system seemed to have lost some oil during frame storage, so I syringed in some new mineral oil and replaced the pads (resin pads).
I had no issue with the “head in” spokes on the non-disc side hitting the frame, although there was not a lot of clearance. (btw my build is a 125 hub, 26in rim, and frame from what was once a nimbus 32 unicycle, using nimbus VCX 150 cranks with plastic nimbus pedals having the plastic pins filed down a bit).
When installing the cranks, I didn’t use a spacer (but I reckon it is better to have one, nevertheless - especially as the adjacent Schlumpf bearing protector rings can move). The gap after banging the cranks together protected by wood blocks and then a bit of final tightening seemed to be 3mm on each side for me. Before doing the cranks, I smoothed the area where the crank bolt head made contact by spinning it around a bit while pressing it in (by being very careful and selecting a tool with the best fit I luckily avoided any deformation).
The hub bearing fitting was a bit anxiety provoking - it is surprisingly hard to be sure the pin is fitting into the 6.2mm hole. When doing the spoke tightening and trueing it is very important to get it in and fairly tight (but not too tight) so the alignment will be right. And when finally assembling the completed wheel, I used blue Loctite on the bearing caps.
It seems like every build is a slightly different journey, but I hope the above information can help someone else.
1 Like
If I could presently justify the cost, I would have responded “SOLD! Send it to me!”. I realize I am currently a focus group of one, but I have to assume there is another 27.5 rider out there like me that had also ordered a Maxxis Hookworm (or similar tire) to install on their 27.5 in order to put a lot of road miles on it.
My only fear is that if I did order that wheel with the Schlumpf, I might never install my regular fixed Dominator2 wheel again. 
Quick question. Does that wheel include a disc hub with rotor?
3 Likes
Yes, this is a disc hub and comes with the rotor.
1 Like
G36 Wheel building today.
Thanks Roger for the clear instructions in your YouTube video, just in time for me.
5 Likes
Progress, using the spoke tensionmeter tool gave me some confidence the spoke tensions were equal per side.
Jacob was “spot on” with his design of the frame on the non-disk side, allowing for Spoke clearance.
3 Likes
That! Is a thing of beauty 
Really enjoy seeing this one coming slowly together!
2 Likes
Really pleased you liked the video and it helped you. 
3 Likes
I ordered these bolts and after a couple of weeks they arrived today.
I’m thinking of using these instead of the Schlumpf supplied bolts.
They look like a hardened steel bolt, but I haven’t progressed to trying to use them yet.
The M14 thread fits the schlumpf. The thread is longer by 3mm, the head is 0.5mm thicker and Dia 24mm. That would need to be grinded to Dia 21mm to fit the VCX Crank. Not sure if the heat generated by grinding would affect the steel.
Schlumpf Bolt
BMX bolt
BMX Bolt in VCX Crank
Schlumpf Bolt in VCX crank
BMX bolt in VCX crank
Schlumpf Bolt in VCX crank
I will probably just used these BMX bolts as pre-tightening bolts. I’ll look for appropriate washer.
Due to the 24mm dia head, I will try use without the head fitting in side the crank and the bearing surface is the outside.
1 Like
It’s funny you post this - I was thinking while doing my last install that adding washers to the stock Schlumpf bolt during the initial install could help.
It seems to me that the main area where the pre-tightening bolt helps is by raising the surface / socket area up and above the shifting rod.
The fact the shifting rod pushed the wrench when installing using stock bolts seem to me to be a big cause of rounding.
So perhaps using two or so washers that fit the ID of the crank hole and have a hole that just a bit bigger that the bolt’s OD could work.
Bit like your idea with your BMX bolts but perhaps simpler.
