Not sure what spokes people might be thinking of using. But I have been toying with Sapim CX Rays and CX Sprint - I as believe using the slightly stiffer set for the lower tension side (think I have that the right way round) can help some?
Too low tension is a problem because it becomes more likely that spoke goes to 0kgf when under load.
Using a less stiff (more stretchy and thinner spoke) on the low tension side helps reduce how much tension change it sees.
However, the load still goes somewhere. Decreased change in load of the stretchy spokes results in increased change in load of the stiffer spokes. I’d assume we’d tension the high tension spokes as high as possible; But if the load changes are higher now, then we’d theoretically need to decrease the tension for everything.
I’m not sure if using stiffer spokes on the high tension side would actually help or not. Might need to do some math…My intuition is that it’ll balance out though.
Using the CX-rays all around seems to be the default choice for me, and likely good.
1 Like
Thanks again. I’m learning a lot!
I noticed in your link that the dishing off set is set as 12.5 but someone else perhaps estimated it would be 11.5.
I know I’m the newbie here to wheel building calculations but how did you arrive at the 12.5?
1 Like
Found my error ( I can’t add xD )Yes 11.5mm is correct! Thanks! (updated my post)
1 Like
I came to 11,5 like this …
Missing measurement from right flange to middle of right bearing
A:100mm - ( E:16mm+D:17mm+C:57mm ) = 10mm
From middle of left bearing to left flange
E:16+D:17mm = 33mm
Left/right flange has this “offset”…
33mm - 10mm = 23mm
To make a symmetrical build half of this value is needed
23mm / 2 = 11,5mm
2 Likes
You want the stretchier spokes on the low tension side. The idea is that the rim, under load, will push in toward the hub a certain amount, which will lower the spoke tension. If you have the same spokes on each side, the low tension spokes will go slack first.
If you have lighter, stretchier spokes on the low tension side, the low tension will still be enough to stretch the spoke the similar distance as on the other (stiffer but high tension) side. So both sides will lose tension more evenly, and not go slack on one side first.
I used to use 14/15/14 gauge spokes on my mountain bike wheels on the drive side, where tension was high, and lightweight 14/17/14 spokes on the low tension side.
1 Like
So with the options set out now and live on UDC UK—
I’m curious what builds people are planning 
I’m now toying with the 125mm 32h and Braus rim combo. Only hesitation is the fact that this would lock me into a 32h hub and that while I’ve seen really clear and successful tyre mounting to the Braus rim I have about 2% nerves over this being an expensive headache for tyres and tubes.
But that would be a dream carbon G36er 
1 Like
I have got the 2 size hubs up on our spoke calculator, I know it is not as fancy as E-Bike.ca spoke calculator… but it does for everyone with a symmetrical rim. 
I have used the CAD drawings that Florian gave me some time ago to check clearances for the sizes rather than the one he has published for retail as he has rounded the figures on it and does not show flange width’s etc. I still have to double check these with Florian to be sure that he has not changed anything from those drawings, but they seam to be right.
3 Likes
While we’re on the spoke calculator, I’m not sure how best it could be achieved, but is there any way that each part can be more easily identified (mostly rims)?
It can be very difficult trying to identify which rim is the correct one if they don’t actually say on them what they are. I tend to measure the ERD myself from the physical part, but I’ve observed some confusion before with people trying to build up a new wheel from old parts just using what’s on the calculator.
1 Like
Moving the follow up from the WiKi thread to here.
Yeah that can certainly go fast, but I’d always say they don’t go exactly as fast as they might seem on paper. Meaning a 24” — doesn’t ride as fast or as efficiently as a 36”.
But for me it’s all about a slower cadence and a new type of challenge, balance feeling and muscle workout.
I would however advise the adding in of say a Nimbus Oracle aluminium frame into the budget for this, not to mention a decent rim and spokes. While I know the hub is costly, the other costs are important for the whole package to be solid, light and reliable 
Let us know what you decide and your geared journey.
(I think you can tell I’m a tad obsessed! 
)
3 Likes
I’ve been rim shopping, and have not found many good options.
Two issues:
The order form seems to indicate the 125mm hub only comes in 36H.
The centerline offset is 11.5mm. That’s going to push every wide profile tire half an inch into the side of the frame. I’ve found very few asymmetric 36H rims 27.5 or larger.
For now, I’m looking to put a Maxxis Hookworm on a Halo Gravitas 29" rim. The rim has a 3mm offset, which helps, but not much.
That’s incorrect. The wheel will need to be dished just like all unicycles with internal disc brakes (and most wheels for regular bikes). The end result will be a wheel where the rim and tire is centered in the frame.
It helps to get slightly more even spoke tension in the dished wheel. And I don’t think it’s possible to get rims with larger offset.
There are not many 29" 36h offset rims. Custom carbon rims is an option. From e.g. Light Bicycle
2 Likes
Do people know if the KH Freeride rim is designed for / intrinsically better for symmetrical builds.
Would this rim work well with the off set we have with the inboard disc of the schlumpf hub?
My head says the Dominator2 in the more clearly tough and used in dished wheels option - but I do tend to prefer the design of KH gear… just by a hair or so, but still tend to prefer. But I’d go Dominator2 if it is better with dished wheels for sure!
Decision, decisions.
The generation rim in the picture is a fairly generic rim with some holes drilled out - really nothing special about it. It will work just fine in an asymmetric build, if you don’t plan to do big drops regularly I would not worry about it at all.
And even if, Mad4one has had similar rims (possibly even from the same extrusion) in use on asymmetric wheels for a long time and I have not heard of any trouble, just make sure the wheel is well built.
2 Likes
You won’t have any problem to mount your wheel, but to ride with a schlumpf I wonder if you need such a wide rim.
If you want to ride on paths, I would recommend the dominator2.
1 Like
Thanks for this bit of advice. I see your point here, and yes paths would be the focus. So a narrower rim would make more sense especially if I want to run narrower tyres.
Cheers!
2 Likes
The 47mm wide KH rim with holes, i.e. the previous generation, was and still is a remarkable rim given the width and strength it provides at that weight.
The 46mm mad4one rim is similar, yet different. It’s a bit heavier and the holes are slightly smaller.
And the dominator is an even stronger rim, a very heavy DH rim.
There are different opinions on matching unicycling rim and tyre width. I comfortably ride tyres as narrow as 2.4inch on a rim such as the 47mm KH rim.
2 Likes
Working on the wheel build. 29" wheel max spoke tension=120kgf
0 offset 120kgf 53kgf.
3mm offset, 120kgf / 76kgf.
6mm offset 120kgf / 90kgf. (found a custom 42mm carbon that can be drilled @6mm)
As long as it’s for off-road riding at low pressure, there’s no worries.
But above 40 psi, there are risks of blowout. I know a lot of unicylists who had problems (including me), especially with schwalbe big apple and supermoto tires (29"x2.35"). I would avoid testing with their successor, the schwalbe g-one.
In my opinion, such wide rims must be reserved for off-road use.
1 Like
I had the Schwalbe Big Apple on my 29er inflated to 3bar and loved it and it never blew. I only took it off to use an MTB Tire for some muni.