Sam Smash Everything!!!

My seat won’t stay in the right position. Every time I turn the turns with me. The bolt isn’t broken (I don’t think). Is there such a thing as overtightening it? It isn’t stripped, and this didn’t start until I raised the seat do my legs weren’t bent in half.

By the by, it’s a 24" Torker CX.

Right before finals, then I was going to ride it through the school.

EDIT: And while I’m here, my dust caps refuse to stay on.

Re: Sam Smash Everything!!!

In article <PopeSamXVI.178wux@NoEmail.Message.Poster.at.Unicyclist.com>,
PopeSamXVI <PopeSamXVI@NoEmail.Message.Poster.at.Unicyclist.com> wrote:
)
)My seat won’t stay in the right position. Every time I turn the turns
)with me. The bolt isn’t broken (I don’t think). Is there such a thing as
)overtightening it? It isn’t stripped, and this didn’t start until I
)raised the seat do my legs weren’t bent in half.

Unicycle seats use 22.2mm seat posts. That’s not enough surface area,
especially considering that we put more sideways stress on our seat
posts than bikes do. To hold a 22.2mm seat post, you need a really
beefy seatpost clamp, not the one that ships with the Torker.

)EDIT: And while I’m here, my dust caps refuse to stay on.

Can’t help you with that one.
-Tom

More about seat post clamping:
Make sure the post extends below the entire clamp. If you’re only halfway down it, the bottom part of a stamped steel clamp will pinch the frame, and you won’t have good tightness. This can also happen with the post, where it gets a notch where the clamp pokes it, and then it won’t adjust. Don’t over-raise the seat (get a longer post).

Otherwise, invest in a more solid clamp. The best kind are the ones with two or more bolts. These usually have a part that grips the frame, and an upper part (narrower) that grips the post itself.

As for dustcaps, they’re not real important. Plastic ones have a tendency to get stripped, or not hold very well in the first place. Their main job is to protect the threads inside the hole, so you’ll be able to use a crank puller in the future. I mostly don’t have caps on my unicycles.

Look at the nut and bolt in the clamp too. If the bolt looks like mine here, sometimes the unthreaded shank of the bolt will meet the barrel that it screws into before the clamp is really tight. The bolt will feel tight because you won’t be able to turn it any more.

seatclamp.jpg

I learend with the seat all the way down and only raised it about an inch, so there’s plenty of post.

I don’t understand what you’re saying, Weeble. Mostly because I’ve got this and can’t visualize with yours.

I guess I just need a new one then, huh? Oh well. Is any one infinitely better than another, or just get one with 2 bolts as described by Mr. Foss. Where could I find one?

Unicycle.com carries the BMX style seatpost clamps. So do many bike shops (look for a bike shop that carries BMX bikes). The BMX seatpost clamps are much much better than the wimpy folded over piece of metal that passes for a seatpost clamp on the Torker CX, the Sun, and many other unicycles.

See this thread for more info. The Torker CX has a 22.2 mm seatpost which works out to be the same as a 7/8" seatpost. Find a BMX clamp made for a 7/8" seatpost and you’ll be good.

I use a Primo Viking clamp on my stock Coker and it works great. Half the clamp grips the seatpost and half the clamp grips the frame. It is super secure. No slipping. No twisting. I use a similar two bolt clamp on my custom Coker.

Well then, I’m off to order myself a two bolt seat clamp and 2 bolts to go with it. I assume that since you redirected me to that thread, all those clamps that say they are 25.4 mm are measured on the outside so they do fit the 22.2 mm.

Yes?

Yes. The outside diameter of the frame is 1". The outside diameter of the seatpost is 7/8" (22.2 mm).

Seatpost clamps generally give the measurement for the size of the frame where the clamp fits on. For the Torker CX that measurement is 1" (25.4 mm).

There are two common seatpost sizes for BMX seatposts. That is 7/8" and 1". That’s the OD of the seatposts. Sometimes the seatpost clamp sizes will be given based on the seatpost size rather than the OD of the frame. That can get confusing because if they just say it’s a 1" clamp you can’t always be sure if that’s for a 1" seatpost size or 1" frame size.

Anyways, the clamps at Unicycle.com should fit the 7/8" seatposts and a 1" frame. You can call them to confirm if the descriptions in the catalog are not clear.

The BMX seatpost clamps will come with the necessary bolts so there is no need to order additional bolts to go with it. The BMX clamps aren’t going to work with the quick release skewer so you’ll have to make do with the bolts. The bolts will hold the seatpost much better so it’s a fair trade-off.

Aahhhh, it’s a quick-release, no wonder. You probably know this, but I’ve seen people who didn’t… You need to finger-tighten the nut first with the clamp lever open, then twist the lever closed to clamp tightly. I’m not a big fan of quick-release clamps myself anyway, as I never seem to be able to get them tight enough to keep the seat from twisting, and anyway once I get my seat where I want it, I never have to adjust it again. They’re good on our club unis though, since we’re constantly adjusting seats for different people, and swapping seats from one uni to another.

Anyway, the bolt in my previous pic looks like this. The bolt will tighten only until the unthreaded part of the shank meets the nut. If the clamp gets tight before this happens, you’re ok; otherwise the bolt will feel tight, but only because it can’t turn any more, even though the clamp might still not be tight.

(should be animated:)

seatbolt.gif

Heh, a case where I actually WANTED the colon and parenthesis, and not a smiley face.

:roll_eyes:

Well I went to a bike shop to look for one of the dual bolt clamps, but BMX has apparently changed their seat post size so I settled for a 3 dollar one until I can get a better. Finals are next week and my PE teacher plans to make us run 2 miles for the first hour of the period. I bet him I could ride the mile in less than 6 minutes (which I’ve already done) if he’d let the class off. So I need my seat fixed by Thursday.

Re: Sam Smash Everything!!!

On Fri, 4 Jun 2004 16:38:43 -0500, “weeble” wrote:

>Heh, a case where I actually WANTED the colon and parenthesis, and not a
>smiley face.

On good old Usenet, all smiley and other faces are translated to their
ascii code. In this case, it just came out as a colon and parenthesis

  • as you intended.

Conversely, if I type :slight_smile: (a colon and a parenthesis) it comes out as a
smiley face on the forum isn’t it? I don’t like that, that’s why I
mostly type :slight_smile: for a smiley face.

Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict

be sure to remove the saddle and simply sit on the seat post. this is far more comfortable - tennisgh22 on the comfort of Savage unis

I think the "D makes a big smile for a smiley. At least it did on other boards. I guess it doesn’t here, but I couldn’t say “Du bist Yid” on another message board.

Wonderful! I just realized my clamp is welded to the frame. Thank you, Torker! But I got a new bolt so it works fine. Anybody know how to cancel unicycle.com orders?

Re: Sam Smash Everything!!!

“PopeSamXVI” <PopeSamXVI@NoEmail.Message.Poster.at.Unicyclist.com> writes:

> Wonderful! I just realized my clamp is welded to the frame. Thank you,
> Torker! But I got a new bolt so it works fine. Anybody know how to
> cancel unicycle.com orders?

You can cut the welds off yourself if you get tired of the clamp. I
used a dremel tool (a.k.a. die grinder - thanks Darren Bedford for the
suggestion) with a 1" diameter grinding wheel and took a leisurely 10
minutes to grind the welds down.

As for cancelling the order - just call them (1-800-unicycle in the
usa). Send email the address on the web page if you don’t get
through.

Ken

Re: Sam Smash Everything!!!

“PopeSamXVI” <PopeSamXVI@NoEmail.Message.Poster.at.Unicyclist.com> writes:

> Wonderful! I just realized my clamp is welded to the frame. Thank you,
> Torker! But I got a new bolt so it works fine. Anybody know how to
> cancel unicycle.com orders?

You can cut the welds off yourself if you get tired of the clamp. I
used a dremel tool (a.k.a. die grinder - thanks Darren Bedford for the
suggestion) with a 1" diameter grinding wheel and took a leisurely 10
minutes to grind the welds down.

As for cancelling the order - just call them (1-800-unicycle in the
usa). Send email the address on the web page if you don’t get
through.

Ken

Thanks, I’ll do that.

Yesterday I got a new bolt. It was small and the top was the only thing keeping it from falling through the holes. Well I went to raise my seat today and the bolt is stripped and bent because the clamp bends in so the two sides meet in a sort of shallow V shape.

Now I’m just mad.