Oh that’s cool then! I thought they were photoshopped as if you were shining at the stars.
Since this is the place for road setups, what do I need to enter into my Sigma bikecomputer for a 36" Nightrider tire as a wheelsize? I’m looking for the 4 digit code 
If you use 1 magnet 2.800, for 2 magnets 1.400. That’s what I measured anyways, I hope it’s correct.
I don’t know how the Nightrider would be different in size from the old Coker tyre. For that one there is a really fantastic 
page at The rollout of a Coker wheel
It takes into account rider weight, tyre pressure and tread wear, to come up with a very accurate wheel rollout! (That would be for one magnet. For two, divide by two - duh!)
I just calculated it (2 methods, so I know it’s right) and its 2869 to be exact. So you need to edit your computer to 1434 (or 5) to be more precise 
Are you sure? That would mean that I am going quite a bit faster and further than I thought. Better than the other way around though 
I calculated it with the formula from the Sigma guide and did a check with counting up the numbers from the 16" and 20" tires. It realy is right, trust me on this one 
The problem with their method is that you might multiply the fault in the initial measurement of the wheel diameter. I just used some tape and stuck it on the tire to get the precise circumference. It turned out to be 2.840 for me. This is on a used tire, so a new one would be a little more. This is without any tire pressure and body weight measurements, of course. So I guess we were both a little wrong. I do trust this new measurement now. Unless somebody can convince me it’s wrong, that is.
Find a place with hectometerpaaltjes and count wheel revolutions (while riding) for 1.000 km (NB in English this means exactly one km, not a thousand). Then divide 1000 by that number (including the last fraction of a revolution).
I have been measuring my rides using a GPS. It is easy to adjust from one unicycle to another. 
Is there any reason to believe it is less accurate than the bike computer method?
Yes, there is: bad reception.
But there are also reasons to believe that it is MORE accurate. Magnet jitter, for one thing. Elimination of the influence of wobbling on total distance covered is another. If you’re wobbling a lot, it might account for a couple of percent. Although this distance is really covered by the tyre contact patch, you’ll have a hard time convincing a race director that your “real speed” was higher than that of the guy before you.
I use a GPS too. It gives so much more than speed and distance!
GPS is accurate when you go in fairly straight lines. Its main drawback is that it takes a location every 20 seconds or so, and gets the distance between this point and the last. If you’re doing switchbacks for example, the distance it calculates would most likely cut through the turns, and could underestimate the distance by quite a bit.
You can also lose connectivity to the satellites (in wooded areas, or in cities with tall buildings, for example).
For most long distance rides though, it would work just fine. For muni, it’s probably not as accurate as a bike computer. Then again, you probably don’t care as much about accuracy in muni conditions.
My GPS (Garmin Vista) takes more readings (when on Auto) if I do switchbacks or a twisty trajectory in general as compared to riding in straight lines, and therefore it pretty much covers all the curves I make. It also takes more sample points if I ride irregular speeds, or even if the elevation changes. I think it does a pretty good job of measuring speed and distance even under those conditions. And then again, even within Auto, I have still a choice of 5 sampling densities.
By the way, what you call “lose connectivity” is what GPS buffs call “bad reception” (of satellite signal, that is). That is indeed a weak point of GPS devices, although the newer units (not mine) have much better capabilities in that respect.
Man is this thread jacked!
this is what i tested tody in very technical downhill and also up bit of uphill. i liked it very much, maybe i should take a more confortable bikesaddle :p, but beside of this it worked out very well!
Watch out Turtle, this might end up like Thierry Bouché’s : http://pagesperso-orange.fr/mtt.sport/
Now please don’t call your ride “MTT®”… 
[EDIT] Is your KH24 still geared? I guess riding that setup on a high gear would need some getting used to.
what the heck is that thing? 
at the moment it’s ungeard, because i need the hub for the V-frame and also i don’t like the kh/chlumpf for technical downhills, i changed gear often when i didn’t want to… looks like i’ll go with kh26" with this kind of saddle and handle for the downhills… i think it wouldn’t be a big deal going in the big gear with this setup, when you’re used to the saddel, it doesn’t matter…
So how is that “thing” a.k.a. “MTT” any different that just riding around on a trials unicycle sif? It’s like sif riding w/o the seat! Real comfortable I’d imagine Still looks pretty compact and easy to carry/climb with to some unique locations just for some cool photo opportunities. Sort of a cross between a trekking pole and trials unicycle ! Interesting.
I believe it is known in the industry as a “sodomy saddle” Yes, its an internally anchored unicycle frame. . . . sort of a dildo attached to a unicycle wheel. You start each ride with some KY and once you mount it (or maybe it mounts you???) The lack of saddle leaves your prostate open to all sorts of good times in there, but its not the sort of thing that is easy to loan out unless you know your riding buddies REALLY well.
I think big drops may not be recommended lest you end up with a little deeper experience than you bargained for and end up barfing up some metal tubing.
B
^^
that was funny!
