Better to have the Nimbus one. Made for the purpose, the generic ones there can be too much flaffing around required to make it work. I struggled for many hours and same with a friend to just get a bearing off, just not enough space behind the bearing.
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Works just fine. I see no reason to discredit my experience or an honest and qualified recommendation that can benefit another rider.
Touch picture
to expand. It is a little cut off
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Oh I believe you. I actually really like trying to save money and do stuff on a shoe-string. I will say that I wasnât super happy the Nimbus puller was like fifty-some bones USD.
I very much appreciate the link, too. Always so much easier to see the exact item that was intended.
Sure, it might have worked for you but it doesnât work well for every unicycle. Thus the specialised tool is better for this requirement.
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Thank you and good luck. There is something quite satisfying about pulling a bearing it seems to fulfill some type of primeval urge.
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Ha. Iâm looking forward to it. Iâll make sure to have a roasted leg of some animal in one hand, and a scantily clad maiden in the other. Well, or, a Nimbus bearing puller 
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As a side note to appease the sharks that tend to circle around me you can always go with a two jaw puller. They are available.
No offence to udc you are a fine company just proving a point.
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Not to blow this up, but you are kind of doing the same. No reason to not believe that generic bearing pullers and unicycles with disks are very often incompatible. I didnât really think about that either, until I had a unicycle with a disk brake and had to dig around my fathers toolbox to find a puller that would work, because the one I used on the non disk side just wouldnât fit.
I had success with some generic low profile 2 jaw bearing pullers, not sure which brand, but they need to be very low profile.
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Mine works fine on my nimbus muni 26 and my 29 nimbus road all with isis hubs disc brakes , also works fine on my udc 29 and 32. Square tapered, canât speak for other brands. 'm speaking from my personal experience. Works for me and should work for others. I never disqualified the udc product I merely posted what works for me. I posted a picture of what I use it just happens to work. No sweat if you donât want to use what Iâm using, use what works for you. Iâm not saying what I use is better I just offered a qualified opinion . Best wishes and happy pulling.
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I think both sides have some merit. Some of us have garages loaded with tools. When I found that my bearing puller didnât have quite enough clearance to get behind the bearings, it was fixed with 3 minutes on the grinder. If youâre in the same boat, then get the cheap bearing puller. Harbor Freight stuff tends to be bottom of the barrel in terms of quality, but itâs more than stout enough to pull a bearing off a unicycle. If you donât have a garage full of tools that you can use to modify your other tools, then pay a little extra and get the right one.
And I did manage to destroy an HF gear puller once trying to pull the pitman arm off an F350 steering box. I ended up taking it to a pro with a specialty tool and he removed it in about 2 minutes for $10.
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Same as you. And iâve had many issues trying to make 2 arm generic pullers fit. As you mention, the only way I could envisage using it would be to grind some of the metal off the bottom of the arms just as you say. I didnât do that though so I just struggled.
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Maybe itâs time to bury the bearing pullers and all go for a ride together 
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Meet up at Unicon 
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I wish I could, but I wonât be able to make it this time around.
Anyway, weâve probably supplied all the info required to purchase a brake kit now 
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Everything worked well. Still working to get the wheel spinning silently with the disc, but I am not sure that is realistic. I mean, Iâve reduced friction a ton, but eliminating that 100% might not be possible at this point.
Thanks everyone! Now off to try this thing tomorrow.
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You should be able to get it true while itâs on the workbench (I put the caliper in between myself and a window and check for daylight either side of the rotor), but a lot of frames flex enough for it to rub during normal riding. In fact one of my unis flexes enough to touch the pads to the rotor just by holding the frame in a horizontal position.
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Thank you. Now regarding getting the disc clear on the workbench. I have watched lots of videos, but do you have a particular ritual to do it?
Like, its really just tinkering with two bolts and using the break. Ir at least they are the variables we can manipulate.
I do use a white background or light to view the disc and pads. Where I am at it right now is that for 80% of the disc spin its clear, but one section touches. Any advice? Thanks in advance.
The rotor is probably a bit out of true. Thatâs pretty common even on brand new rotors, and tends to happen over time anyway as they are used and abused.
Sounds like youâve already figured out how to get the caliper pretty well aligned, so next youâll need to true the rotor. You can get a fancy rotor truing tool to help bend it, or use an adjustable wrench. Or even your fingers, but personally I find it much easier with a tool.
Work your way around the rotor and carefully bend the places which touch the pads. Once youâve finished, clean the rotor with some isopropyl alcohol or acetone to remove any oil or grease contamination. If you think that the pads also became contaminated then itâs worth removing them and giving them a light sand to create a clean braking surface.
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Perfect. Thanks for all the details. I am on it.
Recently, the rotor on my Oracle 27.5 started rubbing the pads at one spot every revolution. Rather than try to true the rotor, or adjust the calipers, I put slight pressure on the brake, enough to engage the calipers and rotors, and walked. Basically my version of âseating the padsâ on a mountain bike.
I walked for what seemed like a long distance, but in reality couldnât have been more than a half mile.
It cured it. The brake still works like I want it to, and it doesnât âchirpâ one time per wheel revolution.
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