I have a Nimbus MUni that can equip a brake.
The real question is, do I need this?
And finally, is the Starfighter worth the extra bones?
Thanks in advance for any insight!
If your uni has a brake tab on the left frame leg like this one then no. If it has no brake tab like this one then yes, you’ll need a D’Brake.
If you’re mounting the lever centrally (sounds like you are if you’re using the saddle lever mount) then I’d say yes.
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Perfect. Thank you so much for the quick response and help. I do have the appropriate frame that is ready to mount the brake. I was sorta-kinda wondering if that was what it was for.
Very grateful for the quick help. Ordered.
I believe you’ll be happy you added the Starfighter to your order.
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Can I tack another question onto this brake kit topic please?..
Does anyone have any hints and tips about about the easiest way to shorten the brake lines by cutting (rather than coiling the excess and being happy that you can lend the unicycle to an extremely tall person who might actually need the extra length) ?
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Good question, thanks for that.
Follow the brake manufacturers instructions, use a good hose cutter and work fast. Most brakes come with the necessary parts for shortening (pin and olive) in the box.
I’d personally do at least a quick lever bleed afterwards, although apparently, it you do it well you don’t need to.
Too late now, but I much prefer these: Shogun Safe Stick Bremshebel-Verlängerung für Barendnutzung, blau, NEU, Retro | eBay (cut down to a shorter length) over the starfighter.
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If you’re going to use a stock saddle without any kind of handlebar, then a starfighter will be an improvement. If you use a handlebar or handle saddle then it will probably make the brake more awkward to use. When you use a handlebar you’re gripping the brake in approximately the same manner as you would when riding a bike, so having a bulky attachment would just make using the brake more awkward. When you’re using the plastic grip at the front of most stock saddles as a handle, then you’re activating the brake from a completely different angle and having a wider lever to grip makes it much easier.
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I have been able to install disc brakes on two unicycles and cut back the brake line with out bleeding them. I like the star fighter on my muni’s because I have them center mounted but on my road uni’s that I use touring bars I do not use the star fighter as I have the brake handle situated at an angle toward my right handle bar where I can operate it with 2 fingers. Keep in mind I only use my brakes for slowing me on descents, I do not do any hard braking, at least on purpose so being able to feather my brakes is my goal.
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Thanks for the details everyone. Yeah, I don’t have a handle beyond the plastic bumper grip on the stock Nimbus Stadium seat (starting to dislike that seat - but everyone told me I would haha.
I’ve done something similar. Make sure you have all the tools and spare parts to install the disc, assuming your hub is disc compatible.
The disc sits behind the bearing, so you’ll need to remove the crank and bearing to install it.
You’ll need
- Nimbus bearing puller (or generic equivalent, but be mindful of the dimensions and clearance needed).
- ISIS crank puller (Park tool CCP-44C). Make sure it’s the one with a coin-like tab on the tip.
- One new bearing. If this is your first time, you may or may not ruin the bearing after you pull it out (or when you hammer it back in). UDC stocks the bearings you’ll need. Look up the bearing size on the spec sheet for your uni.
IMO another reason to get a disc-equipped uni if you anticipate installing brakes! But now you’ll own some extra tools.
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Woah okay good to know. I have the crank puller but not the bearing puller or extra bearing. Thank you.
If you use a bearing puller you absolutely should not need a new bearing.
Putting it back on, if you’ve got a large enough vice then that plus a bit of tube the right size (27.2mm seatpost works) then that’s ideal.
If not, some tube and a mallet/hammer also works.
Whatever you do, the important thing is to apply force to the bearing equally. If you try and bash it on with say a flathead screwdriver and mallet you’ll have it go on the axle at an angle and likely marr the axle on your hub.
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This set will guarantee you have the right size puller.
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There’s not always enough space behind the bearing though to use one of these
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While I’m all for not spending money unnecessarily, I recommend just buying the Nimbus bearing puller. It works perfectly and it’s much more pleasurable to use a good quality tool.
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Completely agree.
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I have this puller set and have used it on my bikes my unicycles my tractors, go karts, mini bikes and my cars. They work fine for pulling unicycle bearings. My point being here is this is an affordable tool that will help you do the job that needs done. I can’t and I am not disputing the quality of the UDC tool as I have not used it.
Remember unicycle repair and maintenance is not rocket science and can be done diy by most riders with just a few inexpensive tools.
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I have this puller set and have used it on my bikes my unicycles my tractors, go karts, mini bikes and my cars. They work fine for pulling unicycle bearings. My point being here is this is an affordable tool that will help you do the job that needs done. I can’t and I am not disputing the quality of the UDC tool as I have not used it.
Remember unicycle repair and maintenance is not rocket science and can be done diy by most riders with just a few inexpensive tools.
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Thanks @Bug72 for the tools link. Good stuff.
Before any of that I did order the Nimbus puller, though. No big deal. And I did throw an extra set of bearings in the cart BUT I have no plans on ruining the ones that are currently on the thing. UDC shipping costs always make me start tossing stuff in the cart lol.