renegade juggling has them
O thanks!. MAybe when my KH handle snaps ill get a new one and that brake reenforcer thing
OK, so ive been thinking that instead of getting that brake reenforcer thingy, ill get a miyata when my current one breaks. I think that the miyata is a lot more customizable without going CF. I was thinking get a miyata/LX off UDC, then get a GB4 reenforcer plate for it, and also that thing that goes under the handle the reenforce it more, and it would only cost $62! Im not really concerned about comfort becuase I ride trials, but I am concerned about the handle. I have heard that it is really bad. I know of a couple alternatives but would be happy for more suggestions. I could get an expensive Kinkport which I have heard are good, but that they snap really easily. Maybe not if I have that reenforcer thingy where the handle bolts on. Also I could get a reeder, but that would not be ideal because I also do some street. As far as I know that would just leave me back with the standard miyata handle.
the miyata handle is fine, for trials you will mostly be doing sif, so it doesn’t really matter.
the kimport isnt too pricey. If you modified it like Spencer, it would work. I find the standard Miyata/ Lx handles really uncomfortable.
and they snap SUPER easy… my freind snapped 5 or so of his before he gave up on them
The kinkport or the Miyata handle snaps really easily?
sorry, thats on his LX … now he has a KH and can’t seem to even stress it at all
The old-school Miyata handles that were made in Japan were strong. Then Miyata moved the saddle manufacturing to China and the quality went downhill. The Chinese made Miyata bumpers use a different mold and a different plastic material. They are not nearly as strong. In fact, they rip apart quite easily. Which is why Bruce developed his Frankeyata Yoopers Fix.
The Torker LX handles are also not as strong as the original Miyata handles.
Both of those are specific for the Miyata or Torker LX seat. They won’t fit a KH style seat.
The Miyata seat stiffener works well to stop flex and seat breakage at the front of the seat. However it does not protect the back section of the seat so heavy landings on the back part of the seat can still break the plastic seat base. It’s also heavy. But it works. I have one on my Miyata seat on my freestyle uni. I used one on my muni seat (also a Miyata) before I switched to a carbon fiber seat base.
Yeah, they are specific to a Miyata/LX seat. As I posted earlier I was thinking of getting a Miyata/LX from UDC, and then a stiffener for it. I really want a CF but I have no money for it:(
My personal experiences with the Miyata seat are all with the old made in Japan version of the Miyata seat. That version was stronger with better plastic for the base, handle, and bumper. The made in Japan version is strong and durable with the added seat base stiffener and handle reinforcement. It’s not bombproof since the back of the seat can still break even with the stiffener, but will do well.
Unfortunately I don’t know how the new Miyata seats and Torker LX seats do in comparison. I do know they’re weaker.
If you already have components and parts from other broken saddles you can put together a CF saddle for not much more than a new LX saddle plus the reinforcement plates and other modifications. Plus you have to factor in the cost of different seatposts because the Miyata/LX uses a different seatpost mount than the KH so you may find yourself needing a different seatpost and/or shims to get it all to work.
Yeah, I was just thinking get an LX seat (with reenforcer plate) because it comes with a seatpost for it and its the correct diameter, all for just $40+$10 plate=cheap decent seat. I actualy would go with an $80 CF UDC base but I have very limited experience with machines, drilling(that I can do I jsut dont have a drill press), etc.
Drilling the CF base is easy and doesn’t require fancy machining tools. I do it with an old hand drill (the kind you crank by hand). A standard electric drill would work. So would a wimpy battery operated screwdriver with a drill bit attachment. It is very easy to drill the CF. It’s just like drilling soft wood.
The harder bit is filing the hole square to fit a carriage bolt. Finding the right size file is difficult and can be expensive. But a simple file would do it. Even an emery board (cardboard fingernail file) cut down or sanded to the right width would probably work. Sanding or filing the CF is very easy. Just like sanding soft wood.
There is no need for tools and machinery suitable for working with metal. Simple hand tools are good enough.
The other hard part is working up the nerve to make the holes. You don’t want to mess it up because then you’ve ruined an $80 seat base. Doing the actual work is easy. Working up the nerve may be more difficult.
Yeah, I think I’ll just stick with a stiffener. Im 12 and I dont have the money to screw up a CF base;)
and hopefully you don’t have the weight to screw it up. A twelve year-old
shouldn’t be able to brake it.
For a 12 yo the plastic Miyata/LX seat with the stiffener should be good. You don’t have an adult sized butt yet or adult sized weight so the abuse on the back of the seat will be less.
One problem you might have with installing the stiffener plate is that the bolts may not be long enough for the added thickness of the stiffener plate. You’ll have to see. You may have to buy some longer carriage bolts.