Pulling through?

My personal experiences with the Miyata seat are all with the old made in Japan version of the Miyata seat. That version was stronger with better plastic for the base, handle, and bumper. The made in Japan version is strong and durable with the added seat base stiffener and handle reinforcement. It’s not bombproof since the back of the seat can still break even with the stiffener, but will do well.

Unfortunately I don’t know how the new Miyata seats and Torker LX seats do in comparison. I do know they’re weaker.

If you already have components and parts from other broken saddles you can put together a CF saddle for not much more than a new LX saddle plus the reinforcement plates and other modifications. Plus you have to factor in the cost of different seatposts because the Miyata/LX uses a different seatpost mount than the KH so you may find yourself needing a different seatpost and/or shims to get it all to work.

Yeah, I was just thinking get an LX seat (with reenforcer plate) because it comes with a seatpost for it and its the correct diameter, all for just $40+$10 plate=cheap decent seat. I actualy would go with an $80 CF UDC base but I have very limited experience with machines, drilling(that I can do I jsut dont have a drill press), etc.

Drilling the CF base is easy and doesn’t require fancy machining tools. I do it with an old hand drill (the kind you crank by hand). A standard electric drill would work. So would a wimpy battery operated screwdriver with a drill bit attachment. It is very easy to drill the CF. It’s just like drilling soft wood.

The harder bit is filing the hole square to fit a carriage bolt. Finding the right size file is difficult and can be expensive. But a simple file would do it. Even an emery board (cardboard fingernail file) cut down or sanded to the right width would probably work. Sanding or filing the CF is very easy. Just like sanding soft wood.

There is no need for tools and machinery suitable for working with metal. Simple hand tools are good enough.

The other hard part is working up the nerve to make the holes. You don’t want to mess it up because then you’ve ruined an $80 seat base. Doing the actual work is easy. Working up the nerve may be more difficult.

Yeah, I think I’ll just stick with a stiffener. Im 12 and I dont have the money to screw up a CF base;)

and hopefully you don’t have the weight to screw it up. A twelve year-old :astonished:
shouldn’t be able to brake it.

For a 12 yo the plastic Miyata/LX seat with the stiffener should be good. You don’t have an adult sized butt yet or adult sized weight so the abuse on the back of the seat will be less.

One problem you might have with installing the stiffener plate is that the bolts may not be long enough for the added thickness of the stiffener plate. You’ll have to see. You may have to buy some longer carriage bolts.

Yeah, im not worried at all about the back of the seat. 90 pounds shouldnt break it. Those plastic bases just arnt cutting it though :roll_eyes: O yeah, if the bolts arnt long enough, will my local hardware store have the right kind or will I have to special order them?

Your local hardware store will have carriage bolts. But they’ll be imperial instead of metric, so they won’t be the exact same size as the original bolts.

You’ll be able to find 1/4-20 carriage bolts in various lengths. 1/4 is the diameter and 20 is the thread pitch. It’s a standard common available size for carriage bolts. You’ll also need 1/4-20 nuts (nyloc nuts or acorn nuts) and suitable washers.

Most hardware stores will have the right bolts. Even Home Depot and Lowe’s stock them.