Finished taking spokes out of both wheels! I am using the rim from an old 16" bike. This it the first time I’ve done anything with wheels, and somehow it took me 3 hours to take out 56 spokes. 
Why would you replace the rim with a screwdriver? 
I know this. Things always tend to take much longer than anticipated… But you did it!
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Haw haw. So funny.
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For lacing watch @UniGeezer’s video.
Lacing in 5 minutes.
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@bouin-bouin Can’t wait to hear more details about your geared hub project! Is it something that could potentially rival a Schlumpf hub?
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As there is only one geared hub today, yes this is potentially a rival but different, with more gears, shifting is different, ….
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Today during work hours (I work from home) I finally saw the time to put handle bars on the 32”. They actually came with my latest addition, the 24” muni for which I had ordered the KH Fusion Freeride saddle, but I have been riding a lot of 32 lately. First I had been fighting with the setup to add the bars to the gel saddle and then noticed the difference in screw attachments. Now the 24 has the gel saddle and the 32 the fusion and handlebars
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The Fusion Freeride saddle and handlebars know where they belong.
Though at the first ride this evening, there was a lot of changing. Seat too high, bar too low. handles to upright.
Today I was fidgeting with the pedals on my 36er and I noticed the right side pedal sounded pretty dry and slightly rough. I’m surprised I didn’t catch it earlier 
They are the pedals that came with the uni, and I’ve put on a lot of miles since I got it.
I decided to take the problem pedal apart and it looks like the race on the inner cone (towards the crank) isn’t looking great. The outer cone looked a little pitted too but not quite like the inner cone
I’ll make it an excuse to get some new pedals 
I yanked a pair of Trek Line Elite pedals off of my mountain unicycle and gave it a test ride on the 36er, and it feels like they will work well.
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I had something similar with my 29 muni. The left pedal made a strange movement at a rotation, but not at the section that screws into the crank. For that I ordered these flat pedals
There are just too many diff pedals to choose from. These looked cool, payable and sturdy.
If you think of carbon fiber as fancy paper machet then the possibilities open up. For example, old ripped up jeans or shirts. A “Junicycle.” If you will
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I’m squeezing in one more project before I go to university… I’ve decided it would be a pretty good idea to build myself a 29er 
I went and bought myself my first frame from Mad4One, a URC Muni M frame which can accommodate a 29x2.5” tire. I was planning on reusing my first wheel build (a Velocity Aileron 700c rim) and put on a thicker tire on it, however the maximum recommended width for that rim would be a 47c (1.75”) tire on it. I was pretty close to committing to that rim anyways, but I remembered I had a 1.75” tire lying around that I could fit on my 26” uni. I threw it on there and gave it a test ride, and it turns out that 1.75” is still too narrow for my liking 
At least in a straight line it isn’t too bad, but while cornering on the narrower tire it felt like the unicycle “leans in” too much underneath me. Meanwhile on the wider 2.125” (57c) tire that the 26er came with it feels somewhat like the opposite; the unicycle doesn’t quite lean in enough. I find it easier to handle though as I can sort of “push” through it by leaning more myself, rather than fight against the excessive lean of the skinnier tire. I don’t know how to put it into better words unfortunately, but it feels like I’ve learned something (probably obvious ) from this little experiment.
I’ll probably end up getting a wider rim since I feel like I’ll be stuck too narrow with the Aileron rim. But I’m curious what are your thoughts are on tire with for a road going 29” uni
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I think you‘re right 
I‘ve got a 29x1.75 (Pirelli Cinturato H, actually, 28“ might be more accurate) and a 29x2.2 (Continental Race King). For streets, the 1.75 is nice. Works even pretty good on gravel roads. That said, I wouldn‘t want a narrower tire on a uni (no, I don‘t have a race unicycle).
As far as leaning too much or too little when cornering - that highly depends on the specific tires you‘re comparing even though a smaller version of the same model will probably corner more easily (and will be less affected by road camber, by the way). But 2.125 certainly isn‘t as wide as to automatically giving a hard time to lean into corners. Heck, I even have a 26x3.8 (Surly Nate) that is really good for corners, although quite heavy. I have a different 26x4.0 (Schwalbe Jumbo Jim) that is just terrible, unless you love autosteer. Yet another fatty, the 26x4.0 Kenda Juggernaut is in between, though closer to the Nate than the Jumbo Jim. Corners pretty good on loose ground, but is barely rideable on tarmac with low pressure.
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I really enjoy my 29” Big Apple (28x2.35 is listed on the tire) tire for road use.
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So here it is! The new member of my unicycle fleet
Unfortunately though, I can’t say I have been riding it as much as I would like. I’ve been trying to iron out some problems with getting things handling right. The first issue I encountered was when I first put the wheel into the frame. I had dished the wheel to be centered between bearings, but when I installed it into the frame it was clearly wayyy off center. I was pretty sure the bearings were seated correctly in the frame. I tried riding it anyways but it was nearly unrideable of course. I then dished the wheel as much as I could relative to the frame, and so far it’s better… But it still feels off. I still find myself leaning to the right, and the unicycle has a slight pull to the left.
I’m not sure whether to attribute this to the tire or riding technique yet, but I did notice something just a bit ago: I’m suspecting maybe the wheel is tilted in the frame? I have read on the forum that sometimes the frame leg length isn’t perfect sometimes, which might require shimming the bearings to get the wheel to sit right. That would explain why the wheel wasn’t positioned correctly in the frame when I first fitted it. I also noticed when I put the longer VCX+ cranks on that they aren’t aligned the same on each side.
If the wheel really is tilted in the frame, then even if the top of the wheel is centered under the seat post, the contact patch could still be in a different position from where it should be… Maybe this is the source of my handling woes?
I’ve been scratching my head and pondering whether there’s something wrong with the frame or if I’m just having a massive skill issue… I need a bit of a sanity check 
What do y’all think?
EDIT: Oh also, if anyone has a better way of measuring where the wheel is positioned in the frame, any tips would be welcome. I’m just not sure if my observation with the cranks is a reliable indicatior of if the wheel is tilted or not.
EDIT 2: Also to add, I have the same thickness crank spacers on each side. The cranks were previously on my 36er so they’ve seen a lot of miles, but I don’t think they’re bent at all.
how big does that make your fleet?
I wanted to say that with a brake disk, isn’t the hub always more positioned one way in the frame, but when looking at my 29” nimbus, I see the spokes are more inward on the side of the disc, than on the other side, so possibly the wheel does end up more in the middle.
I reckon you did that too. It is not very clear on your pictures with that angle.
Cranks seem indeed to indicate the wheel is tilted in the frame. But I wouldn’t trust them blindly, even if you have the same spacer width left and right.
Mount the wheel the other way round (you will probably have to remove the brake to make room for the spokes). If the distance from the left side of the rim to either frame leg is the same, then the frame is good, but the wheel is dished. If the above is true AND the distances from the left side of the rim to the frame and the right side of the rim to the frame are identical, your wheel is perfectly centered in the frame. Hopefully the seat tube is centered between the legs, and hopefully it’s not crooked. But it can be, of course; that‘s why people often center the wheel relative to the bottom end of the seat tube instead of the legs.
Hope I made myself clear. If not, get a bunch of those L and R stickers to help you keep track of everything. As chance would have it, I‘m selling a mint pair of these…
EDIT: Oh, I see, you‘re already well equipped. Never mind, was worth a try
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Some easy things to try if you suspect the frame is at fault:
- If you can, try another wheel in it from one of your other unes and see what it looks like (even if it is smaller). If a factory built wheel is off as well, then it is probably a frame issue. Likewise you could try your new wheel in another one of your frames if that works – I don’t know what you’ve got though.
- Put the wheel in the other wa and see what it looks like.
- If you suspect that the legs are different lengths, take the wheel out and set the frame, resting on the bearing holders (without caps on them), on a level bit of ground/board/table and see if the seat post is plumb (looking into the front/back axis of the frame). Alternatively, put it on a piece of cardboard and square this up (draw some lines on the cardboard for the axle axis with a 90 deg line in the centre extending to the seat post) to check the seat post is centred between the bearing holders and square to the axis of the axle.
- Take the wheel out and stick the seat post in from the underneath (sans seat…) so it is in between the legs of the fork and just eyeball it to see if it looks parallel to the legs.
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