Well thank you! I think @Aurelien got the answer to your first questions. He had the opportunity to deal with me for a special Muni which I delivered in person at the last Unicon. He was very specific on what he wanted, and I was able to deliver that exact product
One of the things I do enjoy is knowing what the uni is going to be used for. Sometimes I get riders who know exactly what they want, but I am also very happy to suggest things and give feedback from my experience. Iāve been riding for almost 21 years now and Iāve ridden just about everything haha. I specialize in Muni and Trials, but I really enjoy finding out what is missing and what can help other disciplines I even got to build myself a Gravel / Road unicycle right after I had the chance to try Aurelienās uni hahaha.
As for material, aluminum is a bit of a pain to find unless you want to go 6061. 7005 is really only used in the cycling industry, I get mine from a bicycle frame builder supplier. You need to be a frame builder to supply from them. For all my 4130 Steel I get round tubing and shape it myself, I used to get aero shaped tubes but it was always a bit hard to get the cuts at the right place. If you wanted to make one single frame for yourself, Iād give a try with 6061. Even if it wont be heat treated, Iāve heard of small bike companies in the past that sold frames that werenāt treated! There are lots of options out there. Iād start out with the easiest to find
Iāve been having trouble convincing myself to ride my g29 in high gear, soā¦ I figured a second Schlumpf would help fix the problem?
I think my g29 problem is commitment to speed, after a summer of ālearningā it with a mis-clamped pin that would let the hub slip in high gear under force - I got used to UPDing when the hub would free-spin, and now itās kinda in my head that way. My longest stretch in high gear is still about a mile so I know I can do it, but Iām hesitant to put enough force on the pedals so most of the time I wind up upshifting, tentatively slow pedaling, and then soon either downshifting or UPDing.
Iām thinking itās time to replace my old Torker LX 24 with a new g24. Iām a little pressed for space, so Iām selling off the unis I donāt ride often, and planning to build this in to a mad4one 26" Tecno frame so I can swap the wheel to have a g24 or a straight 26.
Iām hoping that the g24 will make it easier to commit to high gear and train me up to the g29 at speed.
Thatās the general idea, at least. Just need to get rid of some of this other gear and save up some money to buy more unicycle parts
Iām satisfied. I get very soft and controllable machine for snow and ground paths, without having fat frame.
Here was one issure firstly, the tire had a little rotation on the rim, about 1mm per km. I was afraid, if the nature of it is wave moving (peristaltic effect), all efforts will be useless. I see, edges of my rim is too smooth and the tire can slip maybe. I made a lot of small dents on rim edges, by small triangle file.
Heās done! Aahz, my new g24, fully assembled. This is my first from-scratch wheel build. Had to re-dish it twice after mounting it on the frame. 24x2.8 doesnāt sound too big but it is so much beefier than I expected! It barely fits in the frame.
After the first dishing the tire was rubbing on the frame on one side while the spokes were also hitting the disc caliper on the other, so I shimmed out the disc and dished it again.It eventually came together.
Needs some adjustments as expected. The saddleās not quite angled correctly, one of the shift buttons is a little too far in so it wants to shift back down unexpectedly. But I can mount in high gear and get it rolling, which I canāt do on my g29.
It rides very nicely, although the knobby tire will take some getting used to. As will the different traction on these pedals. Likely seeing its first muni trail next weekend. I took it out for a flat trail ride last weekend and - oops - maybe I should have thread-locked theseā¦
No serious damage done, fortunately. Some minor scratching on the inside of the frame where that screw bent (and was scraping every revolution). About a half mile of carrying it back to the car. Replaced the screw, thread-locked it all this time, and Iām going out for another flat trip today to work out remaining kinks.
Good thing you are test riding it. Smart to do before a serious or big excursion. Donāt want any gremlins to get you while flying down a trail full speed.
I am planning on using a Nimbus brake mount and a Shadow T-bar handle, and welding them together to make handlebars because getting them already made are outrageously expensive. Does anyone know if this could actually work?
I have been thinking along the same lines, but I doubt the two single bolts will be enough to hold such a rig very well. A KH break mount at least has 4 bolts, but I think even that might cause some issues.
My guess is that the handlebar would feel quite spongy or vibrate/oscillate while riding, especially if itās long. There is a reason why the shadow bars are connected to the seatpost directly, in a quite sturdy rig. You risk braking your saddle handle.
The KH T-bar isnāt. While certainly less sturdy, it can work reasonably well. But it needs a reinforcement plate. And the sturdier the seat is, the better.
A brake mount doesnāt seem a good idea in my opinion. Even if it has 4 holes, it just doesnāt look strong enough to my eyes.
Or for a very ridig setup something like this (as the saddle is no longer the support for the handle - a big drawback for the KH t-bar which I own but only used for a short time as I found it to flexy)
You can use another stem to make it shorter and or higher/lower if needed. All details should be in the same thread in earlier post by me. Also feel free to PM me if you need something explained. Iāve used variations of this setup for the last 1,5 years on different unicycles and itās awesome and reasonably priced.
After realizing a break mount wonāt work well, I am planning on using a Nimbus double bolt clamp and the Shadow T-bar and welding them together instead. I already tested to see if the clamp will fit on the seat post instead of the frame, and it actually does if it is completely tightened. Does anyone think this is a good idea, or wonāt work well?
I am definetely no expert, but I bet there are good reasons noone (I guess) has done this before. The idea is intriguing though!
Some obvious cons:
This is a very awkward solution, with no adjustability
Very short termed. Once you want to use a longer seat post you canāt use this rig at all anymore.
Also, the seat post clamp is a part of the unicycle I would not want to mess around and put a lot of force on. But the worst thing that might happen is probably that your saddle might slide down while riding or that you simply break the clamp.
That all said, go ahead and try this out if you donāt mind the cons and risks and really want to try out handlebars. I would love to see a picture of the result. But do keep in mind that shorter handlebars are recommended for beginners.
Well, I was not thinking of using the clamp for the actual frame, I was going to have another clamp on the seat post that could come off the post and onto new ones. But I did talk to a bike shop guy, and he advised against it. Dunno what I should do.
I think @Aurelien got the answer to your first questions. He had the opportunity to deal with me for a special Muni which I delivered in person at the last Unicon. He was very specific on what he wanted, and I was able to deliver that exact product 
But do keep in mind that shorter handlebars are recommended for beginners.