Well thank you! I think @Aurelien got the answer to your first questions. He had the opportunity to deal with me for a special Muni which I delivered in person at the last Unicon. He was very specific on what he wanted, and I was able to deliver that exact product
One of the things I do enjoy is knowing what the uni is going to be used for. Sometimes I get riders who know exactly what they want, but I am also very happy to suggest things and give feedback from my experience. I’ve been riding for almost 21 years now and I’ve ridden just about everything haha. I specialize in Muni and Trials, but I really enjoy finding out what is missing and what can help other disciplines I even got to build myself a Gravel / Road unicycle right after I had the chance to try Aurelien’s uni hahaha.
As for material, aluminum is a bit of a pain to find unless you want to go 6061. 7005 is really only used in the cycling industry, I get mine from a bicycle frame builder supplier. You need to be a frame builder to supply from them. For all my 4130 Steel I get round tubing and shape it myself, I used to get aero shaped tubes but it was always a bit hard to get the cuts at the right place. If you wanted to make one single frame for yourself, I’d give a try with 6061. Even if it wont be heat treated, I’ve heard of small bike companies in the past that sold frames that weren’t treated! There are lots of options out there. I’d start out with the easiest to find
I’ve been having trouble convincing myself to ride my g29 in high gear, so… I figured a second Schlumpf would help fix the problem?
I think my g29 problem is commitment to speed, after a summer of “learning” it with a mis-clamped pin that would let the hub slip in high gear under force - I got used to UPDing when the hub would free-spin, and now it’s kinda in my head that way. My longest stretch in high gear is still about a mile so I know I can do it, but I’m hesitant to put enough force on the pedals so most of the time I wind up upshifting, tentatively slow pedaling, and then soon either downshifting or UPDing.
I’m thinking it’s time to replace my old Torker LX 24 with a new g24. I’m a little pressed for space, so I’m selling off the unis I don’t ride often, and planning to build this in to a mad4one 26" Tecno frame so I can swap the wheel to have a g24 or a straight 26.
I’m hoping that the g24 will make it easier to commit to high gear and train me up to the g29 at speed.
That’s the general idea, at least. Just need to get rid of some of this other gear and save up some money to buy more unicycle parts
I’m satisfied. I get very soft and controllable machine for snow and ground paths, without having fat frame.
Here was one issure firstly, the tire had a little rotation on the rim, about 1mm per km. I was afraid, if the nature of it is wave moving (peristaltic effect), all efforts will be useless. I see, edges of my rim is too smooth and the tire can slip maybe. I made a lot of small dents on rim edges, by small triangle file.
He’s done! Aahz, my new g24, fully assembled. This is my first from-scratch wheel build. Had to re-dish it twice after mounting it on the frame. 24x2.8 doesn’t sound too big but it is so much beefier than I expected! It barely fits in the frame.
After the first dishing the tire was rubbing on the frame on one side while the spokes were also hitting the disc caliper on the other, so I shimmed out the disc and dished it again.It eventually came together.
Needs some adjustments as expected. The saddle’s not quite angled correctly, one of the shift buttons is a little too far in so it wants to shift back down unexpectedly. But I can mount in high gear and get it rolling, which I can’t do on my g29.
It rides very nicely, although the knobby tire will take some getting used to. As will the different traction on these pedals. Likely seeing its first muni trail next weekend. I took it out for a flat trail ride last weekend and - oops - maybe I should have thread-locked these…
No serious damage done, fortunately. Some minor scratching on the inside of the frame where that screw bent (and was scraping every revolution). About a half mile of carrying it back to the car. Replaced the screw, thread-locked it all this time, and I’m going out for another flat trip today to work out remaining kinks.
Good thing you are test riding it. Smart to do before a serious or big excursion. Don’t want any gremlins to get you while flying down a trail full speed.
I am planning on using a Nimbus brake mount and a Shadow T-bar handle, and welding them together to make handlebars because getting them already made are outrageously expensive. Does anyone know if this could actually work?
I think @Aurelien got the answer to your first questions. He had the opportunity to deal with me for a special Muni which I delivered in person at the last Unicon. He was very specific on what he wanted, and I was able to deliver that exact product 
