With a smaller rim, you need to ride a little bit more preasure. I ride the 2.4 tire with about 1.8 - 2 bar. And of course you cant ride a high-volume tire like a 3.0… it will fold over pretty easy.
As the 2.4 is enough for me (i only weight 65kg), i dont care about those negative things 
I dont need a 3.0 tire.
Where you notice the weight most is when riding uphill (its easier), its more agile and of course when you carry the uni 
I had been wondering about a Flow rim for a super light build (though waiting on the new disc stuff, as like your Raider rim it’s disc only, and I figure I want a brake on a flashy build). 80g lighter than that and only a few mm narrower - though with the sidewall and hook design of those you may actually get just as wide a profile on the tyre.
There is also a rim for rim-brakes at Dartmoor, the Fortress (weights 670g in 26").
My girlfriend is using it, also a pretty light build (complete uni weights 5,67kg). Dont know if the cranks will be strong enough, but right now its holding up pretty well
I love that uni to!!
My project is complete! …well, pretty much. Once I decide on the crank length I want to stick with for UNICON i’m going to get the moments Machined to kill off some more weight. Just got back from it’s maiden ride and am very happy. I’ll write up a comprehensive G24 vs G26 review once I get fully acquainted with it in the next week or so.
Full specs:
QX Series Alu frame, Schlumpf hub, QX series Carbon seat post, UDC carbon seat base, 137mm KH moment cranks, Impact knockout pedals, KH free ride 26" rim, HS22/33 Magura Franken brake (from Brycer), Maxxis Ardent 26x2.4 folding bead tyre, Self designed custom handlebar, DT Swiss 2.0 stainless steel spokes, Custom KH slim foam on false base.
This project has been really great. I built my first ever wheel from scratch and it turned out beautifully. It is extremely true with great, even spoke tension. The difference in the wheel build is mainly felt through the braking. It is so much easier to minutely adjust braking pressure compared to my old 24" wheel that suffered from a flat spot and a slight, seemingly untrue-able taco. Needless to say, this rim will get much more attention from the spoke key than the 24 ever did!
A big thanks to Mark Wharton and Kevin Wharton for their help through www.unicycle.com.au. Looking forward to representing them and the QX Series brand at UNICON XVI in Italy.
Could I ask. How does the qu-ax carbon fibre seat post hold up for muni use. I guess the obvious answer is it does until it Doesn’t
Just I was thinking of getting one. Then
Read it was only suitable for road use
I don’t tink I’m especially rough on my kit. So may try it. Do you
Need a special clamp?
I have spec’d up a very similar build to yours as I want a lightweight XC uni as my kh24 is a bit burly for what I ride.
I was looking to use a Sunn Ringle EQ31 but I just couldn’t find one in the UK in 36 hole that wasn’t white camo!! so that Dartmore raider being the same weight and dimensions is spot on!
My kh24 runs a 3" Duro on a 42mm nimbus rim so a 2.4 rubberqueen on a 31mm rim should be a similar tyre to rim ratio. Being the same weight as you and my tyre never leaving the ground on my rides I can’t see the rim width being an issue, anyway KH26 rims seem impossible to get over here
my current new build spec (Not copying Smilyharco honest, well maybe on possibly stripping the frame! ;))
KH26 Frame
KH fixed seat post
KH Freeride Seat
KH seat brake mount
single bolt seat post clamp
Qu-Ax lightweight 145mm cranks
Nukeproof Electron pedals
Dartmoore Raider rim
Nimbus Disc Hub
DT Compertion db black spokes
DT Gold nipples
2.4 Conti RubberQueen (black chilli)
conti tube with secret sealant
D-Brake disc mount
Shimano SLX disc brake
180mm Formula disc
should be about 5.3kg / 11.7 lb so about 1.6 kg lighter than my kh24
The rim is holding up pretty well.
I did a few smaller drops during my last ride and it felt good 
Going bigger with that wheel soon
Sweeeet good to here, I order all my bits tomorrow yay
It will be my first scratch built wheel, I have been reading Sheldon Brown’s guide and have bee truing wheels for decades so it should be fine and hopefully and enjoyable rewarding experience
I will try and take some photos throughout the wheel and overall build
Parcels 2 out of 3 have arrived (Chain Reaction cycles have been a bit useless for the first time ever :()
I was surprised to see a different crown design on the kh26 extra clearance frame compared to my KH24, is it just this version of the kh26 that has this crown design or do other models have it?
Just waiting on spokes, nipples, tyre, pedals and brake.
I am really looking forward to the wheel build, some fair old dishing due to that left hub flange position though!
New 2011 frame design - I think the 26, 29 and 36 are all like that now, not sure about the new 24.
That’s going to be an awesome ride - my nimbus disk hub and d’brake and new spokes are in the post now ready to be fitted into my KH29 next weekend, should look kinda similar.
What tyre are you going to have on that rim? I do like the width of the freeride rim myself but there’s a bit of weight to it and it’s got braking surfaces that I’m not going to need with the disk.
Cheers, I hope you will post up some pics of yours when it is done
It looks stronger as there is more weld on the seat tube to fork crown than the pierced tube version, It does look a little more fussy though (not a bad or a good thing really)
I will be running a 2.4 Conti Rubber Queen as that has lots of good reviews on here and the bigger tyre volume/height is a plus coming from a 24x3 Duro. A few people are rocking a thinner rim fora lower weight with no real issues. The tyre overhang at the sides on this setup isn’t much more than my 24x3 on my 42mm nimbus rim
Full spec as above
KH26 Frame
KH fixed seat post
KH Freeride Seat
KH seat brake mount
single bolt seat post clamp
Qu-Ax lightweight 145mm cranks
Nukeproof Electron pedals
Dartmoore Raider rim
Nimbus Disc Hub
DT Compertion db black spokes
DT silver brass nipples
2.4 Conti RubberQueen (black chilli)
conti tube with secret sealant
D-Brake disc mount
Shimano SLX disc brake
180mm Formula disc
should be about 5.3kg / 11.7 lb so about 1.6 kg lighter than my kh24
The setup sounds very familar except the cranks and the pedals… i dont know how that could be 400g lighter than mine…
Pedals are 40g lighter, cranks 30g…
I’m running a standard SLX-disk and a bigger tube… but over 300g in those 2 parts??? (+ im using a CF-seatbase, which should be lighter than the normal one)
magic 
That is by part spec’d weight so the real weight will be more like yours I’m sure ,I will only know that when I have it built and get it on the scale
Tube weight is about 140g and 60-70g of sealant, my post is cut very short being a short arse and I am using DT Comp spokes (I use Rev ones on my bike builds but thought that was pushing it on a Uni :p) which all help
I am keen to try a KH Slim or Impact Naomi seat as I find the Freeride too big and chaffy (my bike saddle is a 135g razorblade of a saddle) that should shed another 100 ish grams.
I don’t want to go mad it all needs to still be functional a tough enough to take the knock of MUni
I think my tube is a lot heavier than that… may try the one you’re using the next time i change my tire or get a flat 
Antoher little update on my uni: Now using the Nimbus D-brake adapter (prior was the MountainUni).
The MU-adapter was a bit “overbuild” and the brake rubbed all the time, the d-brake adapter is slimmer and now it works perfect
Also i wanted to change to the Nimbus oracle frame… but with my custom hub it didnt work 
The screws of the disc rubbed on the inside of the bearingholder… and i didnt want to grind a new frame down…
I have always run lightish conti tubes with removable cores so I can self slim them (oo er) and they serve me well.
I did look at the Oracle frame which is lighter than the KH26 but I just don’t like rounded forks they just look to “circus Uni” for me, I manly squarer crown is a must1 
A lighter tube can do wonders.
I changed the heavy Duro tube for a lighter (about 2/3 the weight) tube which really does improve handling.
Greetings
Dru
P.S.:Pedals can save a lot of weight as well.
There has been lots of interesting posts how heavy DH tubes with thick rubber walls have been used to sure up the thin tyre sidewalls to good effect, so there is probably a balance between the two things.
As for pedals I have some Wellgo B25s which are about 550g so I am trying out some Nuke Proof Electron pedals which are about 200g lighter and a lot lower profile which will be a bonus as I am getting lots ore pedal tipping now I am pushing myself harder and faster.
Other than the saddle I am probably at the limit of weight loss, If that is all I cared about I wouldn’t have that heavy Disc hub and brake on there
Oh and my final parcel was finally shipped today for delivery tomorrow YAY, construction will start tomorrow night with picture galore 
Take your time for the build, sheldons tutorial is very good, watch out for the valve hole and maybe take another wheel to look at to the side… so you can see and compare if your lacing is ok or not
Thanks for the advice I have read sheldon’s guide multiple times and a few others, I did engineering before programming so I have a good mind for this sort of thing, my rim label will be the correct way around my valve hole next to the key trailing spoke with the hub logo visible through it
I did go with standard plated brass nipples rather than some bling Ali ones like on my bike as with my noobness I didn’t want to have to worry about rounding off nipples
I have trued my own wheels for decades so I am sure it will be fine and fun 
I will be studying my 24" wheel as I go though lol
Did you find any issues specific with the dishing for the disc hub?