kant tipe, droll onnnn mi kybard
650B geared Muni is almost done, all I need is the skill and the material for a custom Ti frame 
Should be good for a while with that frame though 
Jaco,
The regualr Hans is a fine XC tire, on par with an Ardent, though having a better tread pattern and being a bit stickier with Trailstar tread.
The Super Gravity is a completely different tire, it’s closer to a DH tire, has thicker sidewalls, armord casing from bead to bead, so it stands up to more abuse and needs less air for stability.
I’m running tubeless in my HD SG, ~ 18psi and it never burps, whereas my regular Hans burped constantly at 22psi.
I’m pretty heavy (200#), not much of a big drop guy, but I ride fast and hit obstacles hard, the Super Gravity is the only tire that I can run low pressure, other than a 4" Surly or a Duro/Gazz that has not been too soft.
I’ve been thinking about building a Schlumpf into a 32" wheel lately. I know some people have laced the 36h hub into the 48 hole wheel, but it seemed less than ideal. Since I’m in the “think about it” stage, I wondered about making an adapter to go from 36 to 48 holes. Something like this (see below). Wouldn’t be a difficult machining project. Any thoughts on the subject?
I had sketched up plans similar but simpler than yours.
My idea was simply two flat disks that bolted on to the outside of the flanges using the existing spoke holes. There is plenty of room to go a bit wider in that area on most frames.
I can’t remember the exact measurements but I was also thinking of doing the adaptors with 18 holes on the inner circle (to attach to each spoke hole with a 2.5mm bolt) and 48 holes on the outer circle.
With 48 holes on each side (96 total) depending on how they are bolted to the hub you would have proper alignment for 48,32,24,or 16 spoke wheels, as well as a hybrid half radial 64 spoke (using all the spoke holes on a Surly Rabbit Hole rim)
I would like to get it cut form 3mm stainless or a hard aluminum alloy. I will let you know if I find someone to make something along those lines.
See Aaaagh - broken flange on my Schlumpf for where somebody proposed something similar as a fix for the broken flange on my Schlumpf.
I like it! Simple is good.
Can you tell me about the scalloped outer edge on Schlumpf (and some other) hubs? I know it’s to give space for the spokes to run past without having to bend them (or bend them much), but not all hubs have this feature. Is there a consensus on how much difference it makes to have it? Would beveling the edge also serve this purpose?
Your idea reminds me of “moyeaux grandes flasques” hubs that fancy French bicycles sometimes used to have. This isn’t my photo album but it’s a nice display of some of them:
Down at the bottom, there are disks shown that haven’t yet been attached to a hub. They look like what I’ve usually seen, 6-10 rivets holding them on rather than screws. I remember somewhere also seeing a picture of a press someone made to add a bit of dish to the flanges toward the direction the spokes are pulling, but I can’t find that right now.
I always thought they were cool.
Also some photos here.
Flat ring version adapter
OK, based on comments/suggestions, here is another version of the Schlumpf hub with flat ring 48-hole adapters. I have incorporated the scalloped edging, but I’m not sure what the best dimensions would be for this feature. The inner radius of the hub flange is slightly problematic. The washers may need to be trimmed. Conversely, the ring could be threaded and the screws run in the other way. But I was thinking about keeping the ring as simple as possible. Comments?
(This model is accurate to scale, btw.)
Thanks.
Nice 3D rendering LanceB.
However, it maybe worth considering the use of the rivets like it was done with the old hubs pictures above.
At least with rivets there is no need for loctite or risks of loose bolts 
Well, rivets would be more permanent alright. It would also make it a pretty big hassle to use the hub in any other application. Since I’m not 100% certain of which wheel size would be best, I think I’d prefer using screws with loctite, and keep it flexible.
thx.
That looks great! almost exactly what I had in mind. I wouldn’t get too hung up on joining technique. I would probably rivet to my hub with the broken flange but use small bolts for my good one.
I would buy a set. If there were twice as many holes and/or no scallops (so I could drill a second set of holes) I would buy a second set.
Looks like a great idea to me. It seems like it would be easiest just to go with screws.
upgraded my 24" oracle
KH Freeride saddle (orange)
KH 137 moment cranks
KH peddles
I can’t wait to ride it on some propper trails :D:)
My last project, a lightweight 29er:
-KH frame
-Mad4one hub 32h 470g
-ZTR Crest Rim <400g
-Tire Schwalbe Furious Fred 360g
-Con Tec Pedals 250g
-Cranks Qu-ax 125er
all together 3,85Kg!
At the moment i use it with longer cranks and Pedals with more grip so it gets a few grams more
Impressive weight !
I looked up your tire to see the tread and weight. Schwalbe announce 360g (13oz) for a 29x2.00 (50-622) -> great specs if it does not feel flimsy !
I can’t wait to see your review on how it rides (how it feels, what pressure you run…).
Update on takedown 36er
I had tested the wheel for a month or so. Zero issues, except mismatched spoke nipples (my order never came though, I will make do).
This might be the future of unicycle travel, the only problem is it take me 2 hours to get it all back into shape.
Info about the take down 36" wheel
I hadn’t posted much about it because I wasn’t entirely sure how well it would work and didn’t want a bunch of people unicycling across a strange and foreign land on experimental and unstable wheels. 
I wish I had tried it earlier but until this year I had no reason to worry about international flights with a 36er. Now that I have tried it and it works I regret not doing it earlier so others could save themselves some headaches at airports.
It is really quite simple. I cut the rim in two places and separated the pinned join. The pinned join was a real PITA but I found if you worked on it after cutting the rim and only opening a gap of about 1cm you can cut the factory pins in the middle and pull them the rest of the way out with pliers.
I reamed out the holes on the end of each rim section with an allan key. I can’t remember what size I used but it was a good tight fit and left the hole much more round.
Then I made new pins out of some brass rod I found. I had to decrease the diameter slightly so I ground down the rod to a uniform thickness that was very slighlty larger than the pin holes then cut it into 1.5" lengths. I then reduced the diameter a bit more on one end of each pin so the rim would be easily built/disassembled.
I cleaned up the cuts a bit then pounded the pins thick end first into one end of each rim section. I checked the fit and filed down any pins that mushroomed while being installed.
The rim goes back together by hand then is built like a regular wheel. There were humps of about 3mm at each join in the initial phases of the wheel build but evened out as the wheel was brought up to tension. When I was done I was able to stand on the rim at opposite ends and bounce, it was rock solid. I wish I had done some sort of proper deflection test/measurement before and after but if I can put 190 lbs on either side of a wheel and bounce without it budging I think it will be OK.
I had no issues riding it and it was still in the same shape today when I took it apart as when I built the wheel a month ago.
The real test will be how it does in Uzbekistan but I can’t foresee any issues. After Uzbekistan I am going to Australia for their summer than Germany for the Dusseldorf marathon before returning home. I have no idea how much this is saving me in oversized luggage fees but I bet it is significant.
I’m curious to know why you have two saddles.
I don’t know what the roads are going to be like, If they are OK I would prefer to use the bike seat, but if it is more like big wheel MUni I prefer the unicycle seat. Between two seats, 127/150 and 110/137 cranks and a highly adjustable handle I should have my bases covered for the next 6 months.