Rode in the Corinth Mississippi Christmas parade this year!
So many coworkers telling me they saw me in it…
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On the heels of the parade post by @TrevEv , I’ll post this from the recent “Parade of Lights” our unicycle club rode in. We had many other participants, but due to the low light of our staging area, we decided to limit photos to 3 persons.
I am Big Bird. If you ride a yellow custom-built fat-tire unicycle in a Christmas parade, you should own it, right?
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Ok I decided to post this even though it is not mine, it is @PedalSprell’s setup.
This is a 16 inch unicycle with a a brake, using a 3D printed brake mount, a self studded tyre and 45mm cranks.
And yes that is snow on the ground because this is clearly the perfect winter unicycle setup.
And people claim unicycles are not praticle! Ha… what a joke! 
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I have one very important question : 45 mm ? really, is it even rideable ? (ok, that’s two questions)
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Yes, I have ridden it myself. I bought him the cranks. I had a play with it myself the other day when there was less snow and ice (he had not mounted the studded tyre then)
This is me trying it out
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Ok I must admit this is not my first time with 45s. I have a set myself as well and recently mounted them on my daughter’s 20"
and then tried riding it around in a dark car park
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A longer video where I try his incredibly crappy brake setup. 
Despite the comments I am braking!
When he talks about the Oslo round, this is a 25km route around a large part of Oslo that @UniMyra came up with and we do as a group event on a yearly basis. We have a second one of these 16" unis and a second set of cranks. I do worry however if myself and @PedalSprell turn up like this @UniMyra may ban us. I recall one year he started to consider if maybe 26" should be the minimum size, so that we are all closer in pace (I turned up on a 24 that year). 
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I’m not going to ban you for lack of pace, but there’s a limit to how ridiculous people I will ride with
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45 mm is the classical 16" touring cranks from Mototiger. And yes, they are ridable indeed! They can even be quite fast as @ruari has demonstrated.
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Outrageous! This setup is perfect. It is all plastic and strips with lots of inherit dampening, in case you should brake to hard.
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The 45mm cranks are short but when looking at the ratio of crank length to wheel size it is in the range of “Flat road rides” on the handy crank length chart. Likely not so good on steep uphill grades.
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So those figures are basically gain ratios AFAICT.
FWIW the 16″ with 45mm cranks in most of those videos would be 4.52 on a chart like that and my pink 20″ with 45mm cranks would be 5.64, for those that want to compare with a setup listed above that they are familiar with.
I worked these out as follows:
- (16×12.7)/45 = 4.515…
- (20×12.7)/45 = 5.644…
Of course just having the same rough gearing is not everything. Tiny wheels and cranks with almost no movement add even more complexity.
But yeah a 16″ setup like this is not great for getting up hills!
Side note: When I last went racing against @rogeratunicycledotcom on penny farthings in the summer he was at one point cycling a 50″ penny with 89mm cranks (IIRC… though he can correct me if I misremember), which would be 7.13!!! 
- (50×12.7)/89 = 7.13483146067
P.S. @rogeratunicycledotcom you need to start selling proper 45mm cranks as shimming these ones which were designed for something else is a pain. Clearly the unicycle world needs proper 45mm cranks… amirite @PedalSprell? 
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These 45mm cranks are not Cottorless and need to be shimmed. I mad these 3D printable shims that work quite well actually. We will just have to see how they perform over a marathon distance or so.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6807747
I might also have accidentally made one of the cranks Cottorless by attempting removal without removing the ISIS adapter. 
It works great actually.
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Where do you get the 12.7 from?
These old pics and reviews convinced me to buy a cream thick brick from classic cycles. I plan to use it as a urban/skatepark tire.
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The 12.7 is due to tyre diameter is in inches and crank length is in mm. This is basically a leg movement to wheel movement ratio
Thank you. The metric conversion is what I was missing!
The 12.7 is to convert the wheel diameter in inches to its radius in mm – so multiply the diameter in inches by 25.4 to get it in mm, then divide by 2 to get the wheel radius in mm – or simply just multiply by 25.4/2 = 12.7.
This mysterious “gain ratio” terminology is nothing more than the ratio of the wheel-radius to the crank length – the 12.7 makes the units the same and gives you the radius from the diameter.
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