Having had the mad4one fat 20" this thing looks amazing!!! And the weight too, super stable and spins fast!
I’m currently receiving shocks every week. I seem to be on a never-ending streak of bad luck. The fork manufacturer has increased its minimum order quantity by a factor of three, and the 200 TPU tubes I had manufactured for this purpose (20x4.0, 24x4.0) are all defective. Of course, there are no refunds; a shipment of unicycles got stuck at the seaport in China… etc. It’s really not funny at the moment. But I’ll keep at it. Yes, the forks would be great if my manufacturer can remove the inaccuracies. They’re expensive, and I have to expect 100% quality.
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Hi, I maybe interested in a Koxx hub, how much to ship the uk?
why put a brake on a 20". It is very slow already.
Muni for kids. Downhill, to be precise.
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Do they know how to use a brake? I wish my daughter was more persistent.
At the DH event I took part of recently there were some kids, one boy in the same group as I. He didn’t have a brake, though, and at some point he noticed he had tired legs.
I think they should be able to learn to use a brake - I mean they’re kids, they learn quickly.
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My First Unicycle Event was a Muni Downhill Race. I don’t know how to use the Rim Brake. On Year later, at the same Event, I know about it but my Brake Lever was broken in the Training and I don’t have a Brake again for this Race. It was very Mudy but it goes. My Dream is to go the this Track and ride it down with a working Rim Brake. I love my Rim Brake.
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From CHF 21.- I don’t know if GB has a duty-free threshold for imports. Otherwise, VAT, customs duties, and processing fees will likely apply.
Koxx hubs work well, but have relatively large tolerances regarding ISIS dimensions. I think the only reason to buy them is retro, nostalgia. Presumably, all the newer hubs on the market are manufactured with more precision. Ultimately, though, they work.
And I thought I was the only rim brake fan. I once rode down a long, steep slope (Davos Gotschnagrat-Davos Wolfgang), which is a black ski slope in winter. A year earlier, I had to stop with the disc brake because it was fading, losing braking power due to overheating. I had no problems with the rim brake, but the rim was very hot down in the valley. I was surprised that the tube was overthinking it. I’ll have to try it again with a TPU tube; I don’t have any downhill experience yet. It’s quite possible that they’re less heat-resistant (?).
Disk brakes evolve. Maybe with a more recent disk, and with a larger disk, and with those brake pads that have some cooling ribs the overheating problem is gone?
When thinking of the DH event a week ago, there was a guy with a freewheel uni. We had to wait for his disk to cool down over and over again - but his brother had a different, bigger disk and that didn’t seem to have this problem. At least not to the same degree.
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Magura MT7 Pro with a 203 mm Rotor works well. Also for the Freewheel. I don’t have this brake on my Freewheel but a friend who love his Freewheel he is a Fan of this brake and he mean, it works for the Freewheel. For me it works for the normal Muni ride in the wood and yes the brake is all right but it isn’t perfect for the Muni rides because you don’t have enough brake power to stop the wheel.
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Reading your comments gives me hope hearing that a 203 disk rotor is used for a freewheel. I recall for my brand frame that Qu-Ax only says to use 180, which is what have. The loss in braking power and non-consistent braking takes the fun out of long descents.
203mm rotors can cause RGB frames to break in precise conditions. This should not be an issue on a freewheel. To be exhaustive, here are the conditions under which the frame can break:
- It should be a first generation RGB frame. Later frames are reinforced to avoid the issue.
- The brake should be powerful. As far as I know, only 4-piston brakes with 203mm rotors have broken frames.
- You should land a big drop while braking. This is probably the most important point: freewheels are usually not designed to land big drops. Thus, the hub may fail before the frame.
I’m personally using a 203mm rotor with a 4-piston brake on a first generation RGB frame and don’t have any issue. I broke my Pipifax hub before breaking my frame 
Good for you! (sorry, could not resist 
)
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New saddle: The UniFrog unicycle saddle has been given a tighter cover/pad.
It’s a Chinese copy of Miyata saddles, often found on cheap unicycles. These saddles (as well as the original Miyata) were too soft for me. After a few kilometers, I could feel my tailbone. Although the new version is much harder, it seems more comfortable. Its flat design makes it suitable for racing and touring. I installed the Unicorn handlebars today, and the saddle rides really well. Not quite as comfortable as the MUni saddles, but if you position your sit bones correctly, you can achieve a good riding position.
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Please note, however, that the saddle only fits Miyata and compatible seatposts.
Why? Personally I wish other brands would finally follow towards the 31.6 mm seatposts on the RGB frames, but on an aluminium frame at least go with 27.2 mm.
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Because I don’t like having separate seatposts for each unicycle. I’m a very small dealer serving an extremely small market (Switzerland). When I order seatposts, the MOQ is 100-300 pieces, depending on the type. If I had to have any special posts manufactured, it would be very expensive, and I could count the number I sell per year on one hand. The steel and CrMo forks all have 25.4mm. So it would be pointless to offer something like that in 31.8. And most of my cheap unicycles also use 25.4mm. That’s exactly why I’m sticking with this. I simply don’t have the money, order volume, or space for thousands of seatposts.
The final batch of Fatty sample forks (20" and 24") has arrived: The CrMonster fork is the counterpart to the lightweight aluminum fork: indestructible and solid. Thanks to a new fork design, the outer width has been reduced by 1.5 cm. The inner width is 110 mm. If the tests are OK, we’ll make a decision.
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I know, irelevent, but… 200th post!!! 
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