My newest 36er adventure begins today...


You have a PM. :slight_smile:

I’ve had this happen on just about every wheel I have built (all bikes, though). Definitely just stuff “settling in”. I’ve heard from folks who try to avoid this by using a wrench between spokes to torque/bend the spokes across one another before finishing the build and doing the final true-up. I’ve never had much luck with that, and just figure I’ll have to do a tighten and touch up after my first couple rides.

I’m sure you didn’t hurt anything. Just keep an eye on it for a bit - though I’ve never had it happen twice on a wheel.

Phew, sounds like I’ll be okay. I retrued and retensioned again, hopefully all will stay put this time, though I’ll keep an eye on it.

No practice today, it’s raining…

Come on now, we all know that it doesn’t rain in Utah :wink:

Since when has rain stopped anyone?? :astonished: I doubt I’d ever leave my house if I saved it till it wasn’t going to rain :frowning:

Alright, I’ve just about had it with this thing.

I’ve plateaued (sp?) at around 10 feet, and have not really improved over the last 3 days. I went to add my brake today, and the damn thing doesn’t want to center around my rim.

It’s a side pull brake, and I know you’re supposed to be able to torque the spring using a wrench, but no matter how much tweaking I’ve done with it, it will not center. I even tried retruing my wheel so it’d line up in between the pads, but when I pulled the lever, one pad just smacks into the rim while the other one pulls out. It worked before…

At this point, I’m just about ready to set a match to the whole setup…

Unicycling is fun and all, but man it get’s frustrating sometimes… :roll_eyes:

Woo hoo. Figured it out. Cable routing makes a bigger difference than I thought.

Who knew? :thinking:

Wow, I always figured unless you run it through the spokes or something cable routing doesn’t make a difference.

I had my cable wrapped around my seatpost funky, and it was putting pressure on my caliper in a weird way, keeping one side from opening. I unwrapped it, and now everything is kosher.

Some days, I wonder why I even got out of bed.

I finally got to try using a brake. Significantly easier. Makes the thing darn near ridable now. Should have done this sooner :roll_eyes: .

Here’s a pic of my temporary/impromptu brake setup:

Crank lenght

Hey guys :slight_smile:

I plan to build my own freewheel (not sure if 24 or 26 inch yet). Which crank lenght do you recommend? Is it easier with long cranks?

I started with 125mm cranks on my 20" freewheel but quickly went to 100mm. The longer cranks gave me a little more leverage but the shorter cranks made it easier to pedal. I use 114mm on my 26" freewheel and find that to be a good size although I’ve considered going shorter. I have 125mm planned for my 36" freewheel.

Okay, then I think I’ll put either 125mm or 114mm cranks on my 26er :slight_smile:

Your preference may end up being related to how long your legs are. I’m on the shorter side (5’8") and like the shorter cranks. Seat height is also very important and for me a small change (1/8") can mean being able to ride through a section or not. I keep my seat short enough that I can lock my foot down and get the most leverage against the unicycle. I find this useful when riding down steep sections of a trail. Good luck with your project! Do you know what hub and rim you are planning to use?

Keifer, you can’t wrap cables, they will bind :wink:

Glad you figured it out, I had the same problem when I went from hydraulic to the Spyre, took me a few minutes to figure out why the pads weren’t returning to center.

So, are you ready to ride down a big hill on your monster freewheel?

I’m planning to use the Nimbus disc Trike hub and a Nimbus Muni rim. I’m really looking forward to this new challenge :smiley:

Ha, no. Not yet anyway. I can ride fairly normal stuff now, just not comfortably. I’m wating to get a bit more comfortable before I throw my real handle bar on and tackle the big stuff.

Thanks for the tip on the electric screwdriver! That saved time and it’s something I wouldn’t have thought of. I built up my wheel and it wasn’t too bad. I think the larger size makes it easier and also because it’s a symmetrical build. The tension is a bit higher than before but it’s a lot more true. I didn’t have time to try it out but as I expected mounting is going to be a challenge.

Yeah! Now you’re a wheel builder :slight_smile:

I enjoy building wheels, it’s not too hard once you know the pattern, and if you take your time it generally proceeds without a hitch.

To reopen an old thread, I’ve been experimenting with a 24" freewheel lately (nimbus e-sport race wheelset but nimbus drift trike hub), and I find it completely possible. I have plans to build a freewheel 36er by NAUCC 2017 and love the idea of being able to conserve momentum.

I feel like this has most of it’s applications in road racing or downhill MUni.

Some tips from a beginner to anyone wanting to start would be to start riding while feathering the brake so that when you stop pedaling it simulates back pressure.