wow. I thought we had moved all of those along. you got the last of ‘em. I like my dual holes and got MKS QR pedals for them! I had to mod the pedal to pass by the other chuck, so far -so cool. No big drops on those ok. if you ride the 150 holes and do big drops and stair sets, stress risers may appear on the 125 holes then bend or fail. I have not had issues, but I haven’t been rolling stairs or dropping 3’.
Um, the specs show 37.7 for the distance you wrote is max of 36.1, right? Doesn’t that mean the QMD-6 is 1.6mm too wide?
And, do we know how the distances compare with a Schlumpf or KH hub, vs. the 36.1 measured on a Nimbus hub?
Sinz cranks $37.49
All sizes 135mm-180mm. Here.
Comes to $49.96 with shipping on one pair; free shipping if you get three.
That’s why I haven’t recommended it and have one on the way to test. I posted the link to an earlier post to make that point. Jtrops proved it on his 36er, but that doesn’t mean it will work on the 29er. It may be 2mm too wide, or if the bolt at the center of the arm is 1cm higher along the spoke from where I measured it may have the clearance. We’ll see! also, I’m using 8mm crank spacers, it may get too close if you are using 6mm spacers. We need to test this thing, but it is very promising.
That retailer is in short supply in those sizes and are blowing ISIS shorty sinz out of inventory. We just scored a bunch but can’t compete with the blow out prices. We have a solution for the cranks once the shorty isis sinz dries up. We just need to raise the $, and selling our sinz will make that happen.
I am nervous about clearance between the caliper mount bolts on the inside of UCM and the side of the schlumpf hub shell, even with the 3mm counterbore. It will be tight.
Florian Schlumpf reminded me to mention this…
A general comment on your system:
the idea is very interesting! I only see a problem, that some riders may not be aware of.
If you activate your brake and shift at the same time, there is no braking during change of gear. This may cause an over-reaction and a rider could pull the brake lever even harder. When gears engage again, the wheel is blocked due to the hard braking…
I don’t see a critical situation for the hub, but a danger for an unexperienced user.
You probably should add a warning, that unexpected situations may occur, if a rider shifts and brakes at the same time.
Ask Jogi, he is very experienced.
I think most people will be relatively experienced to be using both a schlumpf hub and disk brake 
2 speed hubs take some practice and so does riding terrain requiring a disk!
i like the new logo
+1 for the new logo 
Does posting instructions for use of the UCM with Schlumpf indicate you’ve successfully tested it? Or are you posting instructions before you know they’ll work?
Grinding the bolts is sounding a bit sketchy. . .
Although if you weren’t familiar with the original photo, it might look like a Ron White cheese wheel. . .
Funny, that’s what Jeff said! We don’t have control of the bolt since they come with the brakes. We counter bored the bolt holes to keep the heads away from the spokes, but the Schlumpf hubs take up a lot of room in frames. I think the knurled bearing side that lacks the case bolts will offer slightly more room. We may try countersinking more, but then the bolts will have to be cut on the other end to prevent them from striking the rotor or chain ring bolts. It is a guess, since we have no Schlumpf hub to test. Perhaps Grainger, MSC, or McMaster Carr will have shallow 6M socket cap bolt heads…but the lower bolt may indeed require modification. I think that the bolt head will stick out 3-4 mm and hope that there is that much room between the side of the bearing cap to the hub shell / spoke heads.
speaking of tight, we made an inner lip to fit the Schlumpf “less than 3mm” thick… it is 2.75mm thick and the Schlumpf technical drawing shows a more accurate measurement of 2.85mm! I hope this works! Then we’ll see if the spokes or hub shell passes by the lower caliper adapter bolt head!
Are those tolerances with the schlumpf hub with the knurled bearing on the RHS? Because most people have it the other way round. what are the tolerances like with the Hub in its original orientation? I like the idea of disc brakes- but not if i have to chance to a goofy footed shifting technique. How did Jogi set up his G36 with mountainuni brakes?
Mark