Seems like a good opportunity.
A successful test would almost certainly get you quite a few sales to Schlumpf owners. Lack of a test is certainly hindering your sales to Schlumpf owners. Granted the gunis are a smaller subset of an already small market, but I suspect those who’ve shelled out for a geared hub are probably more likely to spend on a disk brake than the average uni owner.
Jogi and Turtle have weld on tabs on their Triton frames, and use 6mm crank spacers on the right hand side. The UCM, however, drops the caliper a little lower and I am wondering if the lower mount bolt for the adapter will clear the spokes or hub shell. The Schlumpf case bolts are on the non knurled side and I am wondering about clearance there, if it does -yer gud!
As far as the space between the bearings and the hub shell, I am more confident about since I checked the lip thickness on a few UCM’s and found more than just a tenth of a mm of clearance for the 2.85mm gap.
Steveyo will clue us all in regarding the compatibility of the UCM with the Schlumpf. I for one, am very hopeful! (fingers crossed!)
Let’s see how accurate the frame is in the tech drawing…
Ok, I took a tech drawing of a Schlumpf hub and took the measurements off the picture to figure out the difference between the labeled dimensions and the picture. I measured the drawing at the space between the inside of the bearing cap to the spoke flange on the knurled nut side and got a 6.5mm clearance, assuming that the spokes stick out 2mm then I’ll have room for a bolt head that is sticking out of the UCM about 4mm in width.
On the non knurled bearing side inside of bearing to flange is the same, but if the bolts for the hub shell reach the bolt head on the UCM, there is only 2.4mm width of space and the UCM bolt head would need to be filed down. The tops of the bolts for the hub shell are 42.8mm off the hub center, and the outside of the head of the lower adapter mount bolt for the UCM is about 43.4mm off the hub center… Tight! We might get lucky running the non knurled side on the right side of the hub without filing 2mm off the lower adapter mount bolt by .6mm in height! This needs to be tested.
Running the hub goofy footed can be avoided if you run the rotor on the left side. That would happen if the right crank were tapped for Left hand thread, perhaps specific cranks, filing down the lower adapter mount bolt head, or running a frame with the weld on mount as demonstrated on the Triton.
a 2mm chamfer on the bolt head may be all that is needed.
Great googly moogly. 0.6mm clearance? Sounds tight.
I’ll set it up and report back. I’ve ordered the spacer from UDC, the Sinz cranks (140s) from ediscountbike, the disc-setup hardware and UCM from mountainuni.
I still need to order the brake itself.
Correct me if I’m wrong, but this clearance issue will NOT need a brake in the system yet to test the fit, right?
So is the brake that Sask mentioned (Hayes) going to work? Or do I need to hack up over $100 more for the Gusset?
the clearance issue is for the lower bolt that mounts the caliper adapter to the UCM. So you would need to mount the 180mm ISO adapter.
Do you run the knurled bearing on the left or right side? if the knurled bearing is on the right side, you should be good. if the knurled bearing is on the left then the Schlumpf hub shell bolts may come in contact with the lower adapter mount bolt head.
I am guessing that if you turned the adapter mount bolt on a grinder at a 45degree angle that the hub shell bolts will pass by it. Just chamfer the bolt head… take the corner off the outside edge a couple of mm. It’s sooooo close!
Worst case with HAYES: get 4, 1mm thick washers that fit the caliper mount bolts and put 2 of them between the adapter and the caliper on each mount bolt if the rotor bottoms on the top inside of the caliper. the 7" may be slightly smaller than our 180mm rotor.
just to rise confusion 
no I hope the pics are helpful…even so the uni is a little dusty 
36" Triton / Schlumpf / MountainUni / Shimano SLX
The heck with it - I ordered the Gusset Hydro. Might as well make it as simple as possible.
I hope to hear back from Sask about the Hayes set up soon. The pics of the Triton show how snug it is with the Schlumpf. We expect to land the adapter and brake in the same inboard spot, it is what sticks out of the UCM at a lower point that concerns me. The pics help Jogi thanx!
We have had good luck with the gusset Steveyo, I hope the luck continues on! Your set up is the test for Schlumf.
My set-up is the test for the Schlumpf/KH. I hope, if we can get it to work, it opens a lot of possible sales for you guys. The great majority of Schlumpf hubs are running on KH frames.
Jogi,
I noticed you have the spacers between the crank bolt and the crank, not the crank and the rotor. I have about 5-6 spacers between by crank and rotor. I am having a hell of a time installing one of my rotors on my 24" wheelset, it seems like every time I install it, there is too much wiggle of the rotor and too much rub.
What’s the advantage of having the spacers the way you do?
If the rotor is a circle, and the caliper sits at a tangent to the circle, wouldn’t the caliper position be on the same radius regardless of whether it is higher or not? In other words, if it is lower it would also have to be further away from the fork blade, and still the same distance from the center of the wheel. Am I missing something?
otherwise the bolts would be to long;)
Oh yeah, that makes me feel a little better!
There are 7mm, “double” chain ring bolts made for attaching two chain rings to a crank, and single chain ring bolts made to attach one chain ring to the crank. With the double chain ring bolt, you need a filler in addition to the rotor and crank. We used spacers to fill the gap and move them around to position the rotor if different crank spacers were used, or to compensate for square taper crank creep.
I figure 4 spacers between the rotor and crank would be sufficient using 8mm crank stops. With a 6mm crank stop spacer, you would remove 2 rotor spacers and move them to the outside of the crank to compensate. Jogi could a single chain ring bolt since he uses no spacers between the rotor and crank. I wonder if the hub in the 24" is much wider than your other hubs, what crank spacer size is being used, and regarding the rubbing -is it constant or intermittent?
if the rubbing is intermittent, is the crank spacer may not be cut straight, or the crank spider or rotor may not be straight. if rubbing is constant, which side of the caliper is rubbing and remove or add spacers to shift the rotor.
If you can line up each rotor by shifting spacers, then you should be able to swap wheels without readjusting the caliper. start with 4 spacers between the crank spider and rotor. keep me updated!
I was hopping to check my mail when I was up north for a couple days but the post office was closed for easter sunday and monday. Hopefully I can finally get everything together when I go back up next week and let you all know how it works.
Mmmmm…
I just got a tasty looking package in the mail. I wonder who it’s from? Hmmm…“Mountainuni.com”. I wonder what it could be…
Well, I’m happy to report that the UCM bearing cap works just fine with the KH/Schlumpf combo. I ride with the knurled bearing on the left so I didn’t expect any trouble. (The UCM is right side). One thing about the UCM is that the bolt hole isn’t very deeply countersunk on one side, so the bolt seems not to screw in very deeply into the frame-side of the bearing holder. Seems plenty far enough to be secure, but I’m considering a longer bolt for that one side.
I don’t have the disk, Sinz cranks, or brake set up yet, mostly because I don’t have the brake yet.
But this preliminary test of just the UCM worked fine.
I cross-posted this to the Schlumpf discussion thread as well.