the caliper bolts thread directly into the aluminum. the threads will not fail under conventional braking forces… it’s more likely to damage the threads by over tightening than by pulling the bolt out with thousands of pounds of pressure.
Jogi has used the system successfully with his Shlumpf hub, however, he has had to use a crank stop on the right side of the hub as the crank eventually presses onto the spindle so far that the chain ring bolts may touch the frame. He also came up with a dynamic caliper mount to adjust for the crank creep until he used the crank stop.
I would seek Schlumpfs approval before using the crank stop or spacer between the hub and the crank. I have not heard of any ill effects upon the hub due to Jogi’s use of the crank stop.
I need to make bolt-on mounts that will work with the KH, did you make your own geared 36er… otherwise, we should get more info from Jogi regarding his experience with the Schlumpf hub.
Jogi did claim that braking while shifting would not damage the hub since the forces are much less than 1 meter drops, but doesn’t recommend it because it will pitch you off unlike the rim brake counterpart because it’s braking through the gears and may be abrupt. So, let off the brake-shift-engage the brake.
can your geared 36er shift gears while riding?
This is Jogi’s post regarding Schlumpf and MountainUni hub/brake combo…
Thanx!
Definitely nice work! I’ll definitely be in the market for at least the bolt on caliper mount and crank/disc. I have a working disk brake that I’ve used on my mountain bike so I’d rather avoid having to buy a whole new disc brake if possible. So will it be possible to buy all these components seperately or only all together? I’m running a KH/Schlumpf Hub on my KH24" so having a 150mm crank option would be the best for me IMHO as that’s the crank length setup I’m used to…
Thanks!
we scooped the last of Sinz 155’s from them and don’t expect any more until next month. However, some vendors stll have some of the sizes you’re looking for in ISIS https://www.danscomp.com/452036.php and we will sell parts seperately, you’ll spend around $80 for Rotor, spacers, crank bolts… We’re working on the bolt-on’s…
Sinz 150’s look to be available here: http://www.ebikestop.com/sinz_expert_crank_arm_set_isis_150mm-SEC-13.php
Jeff and I met with the fabricator and will be getting half the rotors this week or next, then off to the laser etching folks… those are destined for Triton customers. the next batch will happen soon after.
We also met with the machinist who will be carving the bolt on into an I-beam! this will eliminate much of the 215g that the prototype weighs, while remaining as strong and stiff. the difference between the KH and nimbus bearing caps is ever so slight and we may be able to make a universal bolt on between them. We’re getting quotes for the bolt-on and the other project next week.
Hopefully, by the time we are looking at the second half of the rotors, we may have some Bolt-on caliper mounts for KH and Nightrider folks! this may take 3-4 weeks, but that’s not very far off is it? we may even be able to restock 155mm cranks by then!
Does anybody know the Q-factor for the SINZ cranks vs. other unicycle cranks i.e. KH Moments, Nimbus, etc… Just wondering if the Q factor would be radically different from what I’m used to with the KH Moments… I guess I can get used to anything though.
The SINZ are very close to KH Moments when it comes to Q
From earlier in the thread it looks like there is about 1mm difference total.
ok. what is up with the hub in the second link
I put a velcro strap around it so that it would hang and polish the hub as it rolled. it rusted faster than it was polished and I took it off.
why your spokes so rusty
To my surprise, the Nimbus 26" Muni didn’t come with stainless spokes! I used that rig as my winter steed and took it out rain or shine. already broke 2 spokes because of it. I’ll relace it later.
actually, there is no rust on the spokes anywhere else, maybe they are stainless and that corrosion is from the hub flange… idunno.
i ride my dx the same way but no rust
The Torker DX is a good rig. what kind of cranks are on it? does it use ISIS now, what model year is it?
it is a 07 10 spline i am riding muni and commuting and a little bit of trials. it has the stock 150mm on it and yes the 2010 have isis hubs.
is there a threaded hole on the inside of the right crank arm for a spider?