We have 2.5mm stainless steel spacers that may be installed between the caliper adapter and the UCM to move the caliper over to the rotor. I am recommending the 6mm crank spacer, since a few cranks have made creaking sounds with the 8mm spacers under real hopping conditions. by using adapter spacers and rotor spacers, you should be able to move the caliper far enough away from the spokes on Schlumpf hub wheels to use the Mech brake. The spacers are not cheap, like $3 for two of them, but you would get more modulation and if you PM MountainUni1, he can send them with your UCM!
Jtrops made a shift lever drag brake and he may interrupt it with an in line brake lever eventually! I like how he bobbed off the cable stop on the brake and made his own out of old (70’s/80’s) road bike caliper parts bolted directly to the frame to make a smooth, stiff, elegant cable run to the caliper’s articulating arm! It’s very sexy and sleek! (Props Jtrops!) 
This is Brian Oley’s Coker! I replaced the original bearing cap bolts with 30mm stainless socket head M6 bolts, and nutted them with star washer nuts. I pushed the bolts up from the bottom and nutted them atop the frame. I needed no spacer between the adapter and UCM, but I did need a 1mm shim under the bearing. The 185mm adapter on the Skeletal brake was set aside and I replaced the adapter with a 180mm Shimano SM-MA f180 p/s. The cranks were square taper and everything lined right up.
I am unimpressed with the fittings that come with the skeletals as they are not compression, but just a hose fitting. the lever has a lot of adjust ability and it has oodles of modulation.
Nice! But what tire is that he is using??
it’s a coker tire, the all surface or something… its tread reads COKERCOKERCOKERCOKER all over it. it’s nice.
So that’s Nimbus, KH, and Coker (shimmed) working with the UCM! (and Schlumpf Hub Compatibility!) Yeah, that’s right! 
I think they call it “anti skid”
Nice work on designing and executing a virtually universal bearing cap caliper mount!
I think it used to be called “non-skid” but I guess they’re calling it “off-road” now.
I find it amusing that you can build a coker with your preferred tire, however tires aren’t available for direct purchase under the accessories page on the Coker site.
I find it ironic that a tire company builds bikes and unicycles but doesn’t offer the tire for sale directly. 
Exclusive distribution agreement with UDC?
Quite possibly an exclusive distribution agreement with UDC…
interesting thought there…
square taper notes…
Your new square taper cranks will loosen after the initial install. when a craking sound comes from them, immidiately tighten the crank bolts. the sound should not come back, and that’s it.
Pulling the cranks on and off repeatedly will cause the crank to seat further and further onto the spindle, and put that rotor closer and closer to the frame leg. there are spacers between the rotor and the crank spider, that may be moved from in between to the outside to position the rotor. The caliper also slides a little to the right/left.
with the caliper bolts loose, you can squeeze the brake to line it up perfectly, then (brake still squeezed) tighten the bolts.
If you’re doing street and bend the rotor, take a 5mm allen and pull the caliper bolts, put the bolts and washers in your wallet and electrical tape should tape the caliper to the front of the leg -then you can ride home. That means a 5mm and electrical tape in your backpack or camelback.
I think we need to cover this in a FAQ.
That Surley is a monster of a unicycle! how much does it weigh in with the Larry?
Quote:
Originally Posted by rogeratunicycledotcom View Post
The mounts for the brake are fixed to the frame so if you wanted to run a bigger rotor you will need to use an adaptor.
With adaptors… you can fit as big as you can get the adaptor.
Yes the hub is the same dimensions as the one fitted on the Oragon, but has a CrMO spindle.
80mm flange to flange and 16mm dishing
They are different since they do have different cranks on. You can guesstimate this as the hub is 25mm wider than a standard hub.
CrMO
It is the ISO standard. Clearance is about 16mm to the spokes
Hope that helps
Roger
It does! looks like the Oregon and Impulse hubs may fit your Nightrider frames. I have one of those, and I’m thinking of retrofitting an internal disc brake onto it. If that works out, perhaps retrofit kits may be made available on UDC! Like the impulse, the Oregon is a very cool rig!
I like the idea of adding a larger, or a custom rotor to the Impulse or Oregon for more power or a personalized look, it’s good to see it is standardized! Nicely Done.
This has not been tried yet. it would be easiest to just get an Oregon or Impulse Unicycle from UDC. However, if you have a Nightrider and are not currently considering an Impulse, what you propose is likely the case using the hub for the impulse or Oregon to upgrade your Nightrider to an Impulse with an additional part called the UCM.
We are working on a model of the UCM that will function with 160mm adapters and calipers for left side inboard rotors. If your disc brake is 180-203mm rotor with adapter, the current UCM should work.
We’re waiting for Josh’s input on the subject regarding current adaptability.
is this to anyones’ taste?
We should be making them available for $15 on the FB page soon! The Black shirts have gray logos, the pink feature black logos… We are looking into blue synthetic jerseys, anyone down?
I will buy some synthetic ones for riding. 
+1
especially if they have pockets
I think I’d like a black one but I can’t ride in black this time of the year - fancy making light grey ones with black text?