Everyone is going to want a different kind of handle. I prefer the normal saddle handle that comes stock on the Miyata and KH saddles myself. To accommodate the many requests you will have, perhaps a tube welded to the seatpost tube to which the rider can attach his handle of choice will be the best compromise. This is similar to providing bosses for brakes if someone wants to add them later.
I prefer the normal front of the saddle handle such as you would find on the KH and Miyata seats but I know other people prefer larger handles.
I think this might be one of the places wher ethere needs to be an option for what sort of handle is wanted. supply the Big One stock with the standard handle on the seat but have an option to buy a handle that is of the aero design that you mentioned for people who are interested in racing and want something more substantial.
I have only had my coker for a month but I do strictly city riding weaving in and out of people and urban obsticles like up and down steps, so for me I usually ride with one hand on the KH saddle handle. I would think that the best thing for handles would to have them mount to the seatpost, like the accessory tree above, either clamp on simmilar to the way a barend clamps on to the handlebars or have it bolt on somehow, but in either case it should be removeable so that people who use their coker for things other than distance can leave them off. And if it’s mounted to the frame it would need angle adjustments of some sort for different height people.
I have watched Lars mount his Coker with that handle setup…it starts with the wheel behind you instead of in front, and it is far from an easy or traditional mount. I’d tend to agree with Harper’s comments…handles are a fairly personal item, so my suggestion would be if you’re going to include only one type as “stock”, include something very basic and traditional that doesn’t add much to the cost, as many distance riders will wish to personalize this element of their machines.
Click here for a view of my custom George Barnes / Dave Stockton handle. I love this thing…it has the traditional “U” shaped grips for climbing or descending, and the cross-bar which I grab lightly with my right hand while spinning on the flats.
And if you want to see the far end of the custom spectrum, check out this “handle envy”.
Thanks for giving us an update.
Hey, I was wondering if this “new Coker unicycle frame” you have been working on will handle the old 36" or will it be the bigger wheel you have mentioned (40"-42" wheel)?
Please keep us updated!
I am having fantasies of riding a 42" soon.
I’m a stock KH handle person myself, cos I don’t just ride for distance. For muni I don’t like anything bigger than the KH handle, when I’ve ridden with metal handles, even the muni-style ones right in front of the seat they tend to give me leg bruises when I fall off. I’ve ridden with people who have various pimpy handles though, obviously the GB one (the 2 handed one shown on here), but also a few other things like one made out of a pair of bar ends clamped together, to give a handle at right angle to the wheel, just in front of the seat handle and one made out of an adjustable stoker stem and a cut down handlebar. There’s even someone who rides with a single long wooden pole, which fits into something which I believe is a cut up bike stem attached to the seatpost. The rider can lean on the pole when going on easy terrain, or pull it out so that it’s out of the way when riding harder stuff.
Handles attaching to anywhere other than the seat would be great, especially if they’re able to be put in a position where there’s a decent ability to pull up on them for uphills. Attaching handles to the seat base means either you need an expensive seat, or you get through a lot of seats. If it clamped onto the seatpost or frame, and was available to buy as an extra that’d be coolest.
Most distance riders end up using a rail adapter to be able to adjust the seat for comfort. If you use the KH type with the brake post, you can use it to also reinforce a GB4 type handle - http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=576. In doing this you can avoid needing an expensive Carbon Fiber base. Another inexpensive way to reinforce a seat base is - http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=607. Currently these are only available for a Miyata seat. But if you are designing new stuff, this would be an easy and relatively inexpensive item to make available as an option for handle mounting. Here is a picture of the rail adapter reinforcement that I am currently using with a standard KH base.
I’m not happy with those ‘two handles’ out the front for aggresive offroading, or even steep road descending, any situation where you really need to reef up on the handles. sure you ‘can’ with this setup, it just sucks.
I wonder if there is a way to design a more quickly interchangable handle without having to unscrew all those bolts (risking stripping each time) you could just throw on the best handle for the ride you are heading out on (or both if you are going away for the weekend)
A distance handle and an offroad handle that were easily/quickly interchangeagle would make me the happiest boy in the land
And finally the first version of Phaze Too. It’s being rebuilt with lots more red components. Point being in these posts that I probably represent an extreme of road riding positions. So are handlebars a subjective item?..Heck yes!
To weigh in on the new coker issue, I would agree with Harper to simply build a post of sorts off the seat tube of the new frame, and let the customer decide what to use. If the post mount is there, folks will design and make their own handles, and some of us (U-Turn maybe?) could offer an array of after-market handles, as long as the mount is a standard size ID.
I have been experimenting for the past yeat with the rear mounted style bars. I started out with a setup similar to the one Lars had made out of kids bike parts. And now after about 5 revisions I have a set that have been working realy well for me.
They clamp directly to the seat post (either 7/8" or 1") and the rider can mount from the rear with a little extra effort.