I’m still on the 150mm holes of the dual hole moments. The Torrens Linear park undulates enough that i like the extra torque, especially brakeless. The 125s will get a go at some point. This path is made for 36er riding, there are even some unsealed sections to blast along.
I guess i have the newer tbar, with lugged allen bolts inserts on one side and allen bolts on the other. Chix will love my legs, there is nothing but scar tissue…
Fix what ails ya…
As long as it’s only the outside 2 legs! hahaha 
Yeah, I think the design was changed very quickly after release of the T-bar to the newer lugged allen bolts. My understanding is the design was changed to eliminate the need to carry a 10mm spanner to adjust the bar. I have 2 T-bars: one old, one new. Never had tension issues with either of them, so maybe a bigger allen key will fix what ails ya’! So will you be riding the winter CX series on your 36er??
Cheers,
Dmac 
Yes, I think i’ll finally hold my own against the slower bikes at CX. Looking forward to it. You’ll be pleased to know that the third leg is currently uninjured and unscarred. The tbar doesnt stick out that far. 
Guess I just need to be more careful not to burr the bolt heads so they cant be tightened well enough.
Are you doing any CX in the viking lands?
As was just mentioned I don’t think the brake lever is exposed to damage any more on the T-bar than under the saddle; maybe less if you push it further back. For riders trying it offroad for the first time I do suggest keeping it on for a while, certainly more than just a few rides - I also found it strange at first but now prefer it.
Kris
On the width note: I’d be curious to hear people’s opinion on the 150 mm width of the “T”. After narrowing it to 130 mm, I grew accustomed to this width and now personally prefer it for both distance and muni. For anyone who feels like trying it, would you mind shifting the bar ends inwards by 10 mm on each side and let me know what you think?
Thanks,
Kris
i like the T-bar for distance and muni. for muni i like it closer to the saddle (see pics) and I also cut the T (guess it’s even less then 130mm…). at my last ride the two L parts broke, so now they are out of steel:
My legs hit the T when I first installed the handle, so I cut it to about 130 mm. They still brush a little but not enough to bother me. I like that it’s still wide enough that my knuckles don’t touch when I have both hands on the handle.
Turtle what’s that nice handle you fit on the T bar for braking ?
Turtle looks like he is using something like this.
Kris, for distance I have been using the Nimbus straight T in the KH bracket/tube because it is longer and lighter (though weaker of course). The Nimbus T is even wider than your T uncut. I would guess that it is between 180-200mm. I have a cut down T-bar, 120-130mm, that I use for muni. I have used that on my 36 for some 36er muni as well as my 26. I like it a lot for that purpose. However, I also rode my 36er to the trail and back (about 5 miles each way), and I really didn’t like the narrowness of the handle. I felt like my hands were overlapping and applying pressure on each other, which was not comfortable. When riding off-road with the handle that didn’t seem to be an issue, probably because I am frequently removing an arm for balance or control.
yes scott is right. you don’t need it but like this i can grab it way better, only one finger at the brake, the other ones can hold really hard on the handle. this way i can jump, drop, riding real technical stuff, works perfect for me
After seeing your photos of your narrower setup, I also narrowed the T-bar on my muni. I do like it much better that way for a shorter setup on the muni, to prevent hitting the bar in UPD’s. However, for my 36er with the bar extended out, the wider width is nice for riding with both hands. So my recommendation would be to leave the width as is, and let people cut them for short setups.
That sounds like a good idea. The forum members here notwithstanding, sometimes it’s a bit of a communication challenge to let people know that’s it’s OK to modify the T-bar (cut it shorter/narrower), that you don’t have to just use it as it comes. Perhaps laser etch lines on the T-bar to show a suggested cut line for a muni T-bar would help.
This is a good idea. Many MTB handlebars come with graduated marks for trimming the bars to the desired width.
Or maybe just add a note on the instruction sheet (probably less expensive).
break lever exposed to damage
I had to use one of my old (longer and curved) bar ends on the right side to protect the brake lever when I UPD. The left (braking hand) bar end is perfect though I do look forward to Kris releasing a universal solution for his Spooner lever.
Can anyone think of a “more elegant” set-up for protecting my brake lever from damage? I know mine is super ugly but I rarely feel the need to hold on with my right hand and I never bother with “catching” my uni (not even the $3k one) when I UPD. I focus on getting my body out of the way and not getting tangled up and getting hurt. Skin is a valuable resource.
By the way, I did trim the T down 10mm on each side reducing 150mm to 130mm. I do like the fact that I’m less likely to hit it with my legs but it seems super thin in comparison to the 180-200mm of my Nimbus Shadow T on my 36er.
Finally, I really like Turtle’s set-up with the grip. I might have to give that a try!
I like my T-bar a bit further out, then put the brake on the straight section - i.e. like Turtle’s setup, but I haven’t bothered with a grip. No need for a spooner this way (although a spooner still works fine), I find it to be a more natural grip for braking, and the brake lever is totally protected. However, I’m also pretty tall, so it may work better for me to have the T-bar longer than for others.
You can also flip the T-bar bracket around to bring the brake lever in closer, which will work better if you’re braking while gripping the straight section of the bar.
KH T-Bar Ergon GP1 (short) Twist Grip
I’m trying to use my KH T-bar to protect the brake lever on my Oracle. I’ve added an Ergon GP1 grip. I got the shorter (designed for twist grip) model trying to keep my MUni handle as short as possible. One word of caution, remember you will be wearing a glove when you ride so make sure you can still operate the lever with the glove on. I had to cock my Ergon to one side for interference with the exaggerated plastic palm protector of my Hillbilly Fingerless gloves. It feels GREAT without the glove and OK with.
Inspired by the success on my Oracle MUni, and with an extra (they come in pairs) in hand, I put the other grip half way up the Shadow handle as that is where I grab when mounting. I also switched the curved Shadow handle (better for an actual brake lever) for the strait piece to better match the Spooner lever. I’m stubborn and still have it way out on the end where I like it. I can’t use the lever at all when I’m wearing my Hillbilly fingerless (MUni) gloves so I wear KH Pulse gloves on the road.
Here is my setup on my KH29er.
I tried it like Turtle has his with a grip and the brake on the straight section of the T-bar but it felt awkward for me and too far out in front when using the bar-ends so I tried Kris’s suggested setup (although mine is a little further out from the seat) and I like it a lot.
One variation that may be useful for others is that I did not realise I had the old seat that the stiffening plate does not fit on until after the T-bar arrived. I tried running it without the stiffener and it felt ok but was flexing a bit. I figured I would run it till the seat broke and then I would get a new one but when I was trimming the bar so I could use it in the compact configuration I realised that drilling a hole in the end of the T-bar and running a couple of cable ties through it and around the seat post may stop the flexing a bit. I stuck some old inner tube in between to stop creaking/scratching and it is solid as a rock now.
I’m only just reading this thread so this is a late response to post #11:
Note that our handlebar positions are very different. Yours are curved up and shortened, while mine is curved down and essentially maximum length. So when I’m on the handles, I have more of a weight-forward position. Due to this, when asked where I wanted the brake handle, I figured I’d rather have it where I can sit upright.
Ultimately I’d have a lever in both positions, but I don’t want the weight of that. Most of my braking is done when upright, especially hard braking, such as going down the steep streets of San Francisco. I’m not a great brake-on rider; might get better at it with a disc someday. Right now if I’m on the brake, I’m not going very fast.
I’m glad you agree my beautiful Silva Cycle is sexy! Hopefully next weekend I will get my new hub into my own hands, and rebuild my original wheel!
To follow-up, I narrowed my T to 130 mm and really enjoyed (taking comfort knowing I’d be that much less likely to get tangled up in it should I UPD) it in the shortened “MUni” position.
But, after I extended the handle (for riding “XC” rather than full on “MUni”) I’m finding that my hands are too close together. Probably the reason I did not notice it too much before is because I flail my right hand like an idiot when I’m on a really bumpy trail. Now, that I’m riding more “XC” I am trying to recreate that feeling I get (it really seems to square my shoulders) on my 36er with both hands locked on. So, I am kind of regretting cutting down my T. Not a huge deal just a heads up for everyone to follow Kris’ advice and shift the bar ends inwards to see how it feels before cutting it off.