Not gold or cocaine, but Ti and CF, together my currently favorite unicycle:
CF Seat-base of Axel, with front only two holes, in stead of 4.
handle-less bumpers (as IMHO they have more disadvantages than usefulness)
Cylinder head nuts, as bolt ends and threat hurts for no reason
The ones holding the bumpers may even be nylon, it feels less cold
Impact seat post - as unfortunely the Koxx Pitfighter2 doesn't fit
Double bolt clamp, as adjusting over and over again sucks.
20" Nimbus Ti, that I don't think is any different than the very last model of DM Unicycles was, except CNC'ed bearing holders.
Correct me if I'm wrong; credit to Roger for the crazy investment and outsourcing to Taiwan. Credit for design to David Mariner (who had to quit because of too expensive labor in the UK).
It comes with a price, but also I think the Ti welds hidden inside makes it much better than the DM's were in 1998.
I'm not sure, but the mentioned cups seem to be machined after welding, or else the welding is even more amazing precise.
Ti hub of Exceed, again CNC'ed after welding
CF spacers, they simply look nice, and I like the special material
Somewhat shitty bearings, as there is nothing better for ISIS
Ti spokes (bare, not weakened by anodizing), laced x1
Ti spoke nipples, just because it's possible
Concave rim with X spoking, and trial holes drilled inside (not visible when tires are mounted)
wide trial rim tape, although nobody sees it: clean white.
Foss innertube 1.95, as correct sizing of this one is important
This innertube is not the ideal combination with the trail holes in the rim.
And it's lifespan is not equally larger than it's price, compare to butyl innertubes.
Oddeysy Path 2.1 white, that -like the Primo The Wall- is now EOL :(
Another option is the Suelo Silkworm, a special flatland tyre, very thin and slick.
Nimbus Venture2 125mm, which I think -due to it's shape- is the strongest light-weight crank
Echo TR with Ti axle, and my own tubes of PET (extreme temper-proof, contrary to the usual caging), with skate grip (grinded glass).
But, if the 1-unicycle-only-diet takes forever, then probably I might rather stick with a Semcycle Pro 20"; as they proofed (also to me) to last decades, and their comfort has no compare. As a matter of fact, the above listed unicycle is causing me pains, due to lack of decent suspension (and minor but constant impact on my spinal cord).
I really like my Oracle 26 with a hookworm tire. Nice and smooth. Am finally learning to use the brake. With it being so flat, you probably don’t need a brake!
Alright, so with all the new stuff going on, I’d like to update my dream uni.
It is, however, a toss up between a better 36er, or a better 29er.
I’d really like an Oregon Frame, Knard, D2 rim, with either a disk hub, or a freewheel hub (if there was a way to fit it ). Then I’d have a flat KH street with a Shadow handle set. Brake would be a TRP spyre. 165mm cranks. I can’t seem to think of a better 29er than that.
For a 36er, the Oracle is nice, though I’d prefer the nightrider frame. Go with a super wide ISIS hub or the freewheel hub if there was a way to fit it. TRP spyre brake, flat KH street, Shadow handle, S2 rim, with Todd tire (even though the Nighrider tire hasn’t really bugged me [except for setting up tubless ]) 150mm cranks.
Basically the same uni’s with different wheel sets.
I’d like a 700c schlumpf too, but it’s not quite as realistic a choice as these other two.
I wouldn’t mind a super wide 36er frame that you could also fit a knard in. Sorta like the Oregon frame but taller to fit a 36er wheelset in it.
I just couldn’t decide between the two as I like Muni and road climbing equally.
I’ve been hearing about the Hookworm tire
off and on for a couple of years now. What is it that you like about it?
The Hookworm is just really smooth on pavement. It seems to just roll along efortlessly. I also was just able to ride up a small hill near my house, which I wasn’t sure I could master. I am beginning to try the brake. It will be a big help for me, because as noted, we do have lots of hills and I some times get rolling too fast downhill. Of course, I had a Duro on before, so there was a big difference. I need to try the Hookworm off road, so I know whether or not to take it with me to Florida, wheere there are some nice trails.
I can’t seem to get this question out of my head, and I have concluded that the OP (joggerdude) is messing with our minds. When I scroll through this thread, it is very clear that he has gotten a lot of people confused.
This question can’t be answered.
I now need a backup 36’er as my regular one is at the lokal bikeshop for repair.