http://www.unicycle.uk.com/26-huni-rex-unicycle-matt-black.html
has anyone bought one of these unicycles?
now there is a price drop from £495 to £180 im very tempted
I think the main issue was hpedal strikes-rex. 
In theory they sound decent for commuting/city riding… Fast as (Faster? I dunno what they gear up to) a 36er, but small/carryable as a 26er… Pedal striking sounds like a pain but if you’re only riding it on the road anyway, what’re you going to strike? 
Sadly I’ve never really found any real information on these things. They look cool, though I wonder if the cranks can become mis-aligned as they’re not attached to each other…
wow… i thought they dropped to that price to be discontinued.
I’ve had a ride on a huni and it is a weird beast and a pig to mount. Imagine riding only in top gear on a schlumpf but unlike on a GUni, you are stuck with a 39er wheel the whole time and the rollover ability of a 26. The crank position feels a little weird but can be got used to. Due to the gear up, the wheelset feels ~50+% heavier than it really is.
Pedal strikes were not a huge issue for me as it turns like a oil tanker.
What it does do is GUni or 36er speed on the cheap in a smaller package. Most of my dislikes of this could be worked through by a determined rider and the reward offered of scalping b*kes on the morning commute is sometimes too good to miss. If you are planning on buying this, put a foss tube in it and maybe even find the lightest tyre that feels ok, it should make it more manouverable.
If you want crazy though, i knew a guy who took one of these, stretched the frame and shoved a 36er wheel in it.
PLEASE Find pictures/other such media to share about that, that sounds awesome! (And presumably minimised the pedal strike issue too?)
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Trust me, I’m doing far worse than drooling.
On a serious note… Some people already struggle reaching 36er pedals… How much lower are these ones?? 
well…
165mm cranks = 5.5"
~4" from hub to crank axles
18" hub to top of wheel
6+" for top of frame and saddle
Looks like it needs a minimum inseam of 32.5+ With some modification, maybe a 30" inseam would be possible.
On the other hand the frame looks like it could take a 700c wheel to make a monster race unicycle without modification. Another easy change would be to swap out the drive sprockets to give a different gear ratio.
wow that 36er looks amazing can you buy them ?
36er geared
just found another geared 36er like huni developed by Pete Perron
The guy had the frame extended as a custom job. You could have it done for yourself if you can find a metalworking shop or bike builder that think they can do it. Thing is though, once you factor in the costs (labour, new parts, metal stock), you might as well buy a brand new oracle instead. Also if they don’t get it just right, the frame could suddenly fall apart at 20mph…
I would consider this and the purple phaze/red menace V36ers as an exercise in what CAN be done rather than what SHOULD be done. A permanent 54" effective diameter gives a very high gear with any length cranks. Almost any UPD on a uni like this (due to high minimum speed to keep stability) is going to be too fast to run out. Starting up and coming to a stop would be hugely difficult. With a 2 gear 36, the low gear allows for much safer low speed manoeuvring.
Post #11 in this thread shows a 29" wheel in a Huni-rex.
There have been a fair number of fixed-gear uni designs posted on the forum, of various types. The main drawback that is common to them is the fixed nature of the gearing. The Schlumpf has gained popularity (I think) because it can be shifted on the fly, and it maintains the same basic riding mechanics as a regular unicycle.
29er (or skinny 700c) Huni sounds like fun, and sounds like fast too I’m almost tempted to buy one now and re-lace it with a 700c rim… When I get a job maybe 
That is my impression also. Do we have reason to believe there will be future production of these?
The 36" version probably eliminates the worry of pedal strikes, but the drawback, already discussed, is that it’s high gear only. Fine for flat rides, not so great for hilly places. But still hugely cheaper than anything with a Schlumpf on it.
The majority of my UPDs on my Schlumpf, not counting ones during shifting, have been in high gear. Fortunately they are almost always at lower speeds. That’s partially because it’s harder to ride it slow than fast. A 36" Schlumpf also gears up to 54" and, while difficult, I have gained a lot of confidence maneuvering it even when going slow in the high gear. It’s much more stable and manageable once you get over 10 mph/16 kph.
I was riding Huni-rex at EUC some years ago and I did not like it. It felt really strange and sluggish and pedal strikes happened often on a track that was set up due to tight turn. Also cranks were going out of sync sometimes, but it was easy to tighten and resync them.
But…
first, there were some changes to the construction later and I’ve heard cranks going out of sync is not a problem anymore (or at least not that often).
second, I was riding it before trying guni, so I was not used to riding in high gear. It would probably feel much more natural for me now.
third, the original price was way too high for such limited application. But the 180 pounds sounds like a fair price.
fourth, I like the idea of having it 700c’ed. This could be a nice uni for commuting.
Or you could buy the Nimbus 29er with 89mm cranks. It’s 1kg lighter, has a narrower frame and less risk of pedal strike.
The Huni-rex has some novelty value though. If I was a collector of unicycles then I would snap one up fast at that price.
Cranks going out of sync sounds terrifying, even if it only happens ‘not that often’. That to me is enough to say I don’t think I’ll bother
I am still vaguely interested to hear how fast a 700c version could go though.
the cranks should not go out of sync as long as the hub is fitted correctly.
I am vaguely tempted to try and build a 700c one, only there are too many items higher up on the financial haemorrhage list atm.
If they stay at that price though…
If you’re worried about cranks getting out of sync you could always relace it with a flip flop hub and set it up freewheel on the right and fixed on the left. That would be a novel unicycle.
And how would you decide which foot gets to control the fixie side? I’d personally have the fixie on the left, so I can mount easily (I mount left-foot first…) 
This sounds similar to those cranksets people use to train cadence on bikes, where each crank can be moved independantly of the other, so as to sort of force you to learn to pedal PERFECTLY.