How to order a Schlumpf?

I just heard that my Schlumpf is going to be here soon :):):):):):):slight_smile: :sunglasses:

Being shipped

I just heard mine is on its way as well!

He must have fixed his new machine. :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

Eddie

A very good tip for changing gearā€¦

You guys and girls must be really excited, 4 months ago I was in the same position and could hardly wait. I was also concerned if Iā€™d done the right thing splashing out that amount of dosh on something Iā€™d never even see, let alone ridden. Well it was all worthā€¦I really love my 26" Guni.

Anyway back to my tip that was passed onto me and you might not of seen, when changing down into low gear ALWAYS apply the brake (even if only going slow on the flat) as it makes you push against the pedals and forcefully makes your legs speed up to ā€˜catchā€™ the faster leg speed of the lower ratio. I also find this usefull when changing into high down hill, it somehow speeds up the engagement.

Iā€™ve done nearly 400 miles on mine and itā€™s really given me a new dimension to my riding, although still enjoy the ease of my more roadie 29" fixed.

Iā€™ve been experimenting with braking while shifting too. Sometimes it can really be helpful.
This will not work with disk brakes, thoughā€¦

Unicycle dot com in Australia have some Schlumpf hub(s) for sale:
HUB

Would make a nice Christmas present for someone :slight_smile:

I received mine after ordering direct from Florianā€“good experience. Had the wheel built for my KH29 and tried it for the first time today. It is harder than I thought it would be to ride. I have a number of changes happening at onceā€¦150 cranks, different tire, and geared hub. The little bit of play necessary to make the shift work is giving me trouble, however. Tell me this goes away! It feels a lot different than my fixie and I am having a bit of trouble getting used to it on day 1ā€¦

Carey

Geared hubs are a whole new animal. The slight play in the cranks will stop bothering you after a while. I barely notice it anymore. In fact, I think riding the Schlumpf has taught me to be a more consistent spinner, with more of a constant ā€œpushā€ on the pedals so the play is even less noticeable while cruising.

Riding in high gear is also a new kind of riding. For someone whoā€™s been unicycling for many years like me, itā€™s a nice new challenge. I like it! Still a long way to go before I would call myself a ā€œsolidā€ or ā€œcomfortableā€ shifter.

Shifting with 150ā€™s can be a little challenging. I tried the 125 holes on my KH24 guni, and found shifting to be a snap. Perhaps even a bit too easy, since I made an accidental downshift at high speed on rough terrain and went down hard. As far as the play, I hardly even notice it anymore. Give it time and it will get programmed into your brain and become automatic.

putting together my dream Schlumpf 36er

I debated posting this in ā€œSchlumpf hubs: general discussionā€ rather than resurrecting an old thread but I think it fits better here because my question is similar to the one Tuscon Uni asked back in March of 2010 though if I were naming a new thread it would be called ā€œThe logistics of putting together my dream 36erā€. I use the term ā€œputting togetherā€ rather than ā€œbuildingā€ lest someone get the false impression that I am the least bit mechanically inclined. On that note, I will be seeking advice on the proper tools (torque wrench, etcā€¦) to perform routine maintenance. Anything more complicated would be done by Schellerā€™s cycling my LBS. So letā€™s go under the assumption that I donā€™t have a lot of tools (my toolbox is pitiful) or spare unicycle parts (aside from a crank wrench, an ISIS puller, and spare set of KH 125/110ā€™s) lying around. I am pretty much starting from scratch. All Iā€™ve got is a bunch of money (a very understanding wife) and the need for speed.

Proposal #1 Keep it simple stupid (KISS)
Hub: KH MUni Schlumpf hub
Frame: late model (post 2007) Kris Holm (aluminum) 36er ($300)
Cranks: KH dual hole 165/137 Moments
Brakes: Magura (though Iā€™ve heard old caliper V brakes rub less)
Rim: Nimbus Stealth Pro (just like the one on my Impulse)
Tire: Nimbus Nightrider
Seatpost/Handlebar (the Shadow just like my Impulse)
Saddle: new Fusion ā€œslimā€ saddle
Lights: GeoManGear MagicShine in the front, planet blinky on back

Pros:
Zero chance of voiding the warranty on my Schlumpf hub by using the exact frame and cranks that Florian and Kris recommend.
Keeps my instructions for Bronson Silva simple. Build my hub into a stock KH 36er.
I will get my equipment shipped sooner keeping the customization to a minimum. Just have Josh at UDC drop ship all the parts at Silva cycles.
Slightly cheaper than ā€œgo all outā€ proposal # 2
Cons:
The disc brakes on my Nimbus Impulse have me spoiled rotten to the smooth modulation of disc brakes. I have heard the Maggieā€™s can rub (flex lessened by the rigidity of the KH frame) and be a bit grabby which would not be good at speed. Come to think of it, the brake is the one and only con of proposal # 1

Proposal # 2 ā€œgo all outā€ and get the most gorgeous rig (see Jogiā€™s picture in the ā€œMountainUni Disc Brake Setups threadā€) that I have ever had the pleasure of laying my eyes on.
Hub: KH MUni Schlumpf hub ($1,500)
Frame: Triton (titanium) 36er ($600)
Cranks: Sinz 165ā€™s (easy to find my preferred long cranks)
Brakes: MountainUni disc brake (tabs on Triton eliminate the need for UniCaliperMount (UCM) and any headaches that might come along with bolting on)
Rim: Nimbus Stealth (guess I donā€™t need the ā€œproā€ without rim brakes)
Tire: Nimbus Nightrider
Seatpost/Handlebar (the Shadow just like my Impulse)
Saddle: new Fusion ā€œslimā€ saddle
Lights: GeoManGear MagicShine in the front, planet blinky on back

Pros:
A disc brake is so darn smooth and the hills of Kentucky (tomorrow is Derby Day!) require a brake even with my long cranks.
Cons:
A little more expensive but money is no object (reliability & durability are).
Iā€™ve heard rumor the titanium frame rides ā€œsmootherā€ for MUni which I could only assume transfers over to my roads and 100 mile paved bike loop.
Logistics ā€“ Ship it from UDC, to Silva Cycles, to MountainUni, and finally to me. I would be lucky to get it by 2012. Worth the wait?

Summary: I am dead serious about getting my order in before monthā€™s end. Iā€™ve got a fist full of cash burning a whole in my pocket. I am dead set on a 36er to suit my ā€œout the door and up the roadā€ riding style. I am keeping my Impulse to serve as a back up when my Schlumpf is out of commission which I expect and accept to be fairly often. Any advice you may provide would be greatly appreciated.

Dude if youā€™ve got the cash iā€™d go with option 2. However, Iā€™m not completely sold on the advantages of Ti for frames (except the bling/bragging power). I would have a mind to go with option 2 but stick with the KH frame and use the Caliper Bolt on mount by Mountainuni. With the extra cash, buy a few pairs of nice cycling nics, some wellgo MG1 pedals, a pair of 5:10 shoes, a decent touring handle, and something nice for the wife who seems to be supportive of your hobby.

I love building projects, i hope you have fun with the whole process and that it goes smoothly.

Mark

Get the wheel built up by Bronson. he can get the hubs and any parts you need.

I ordered mine today, he knows what heā€™s doing.

I am going to start with rim brakes, then try the disc brakes.

26 guni for me :slight_smile:

I donā€™t think ti frames are better than al or steel, the kh aluminum frame is very good, maybe better than ti, depends who you ask.

You have an impulse disc 36er now? If I were you Iā€™d get the schlump wheel built, then mount a disc brake off the existing mount and shim it to fit the mountainuni disc brake cranks. That way you can swap wheels at will.

Congrats Ben! I Wana see the g26 beast when itā€™s done!

I ordered the G26 as well, about 3 weeks ago. Did he give you an estimate on when heā€™ll be getting your hub?

might pull the trigger tomorrow

That is exactly what I should do. Iā€™m just so spoiled by the disc brake on my Impulse. If I were going to start with rim brakes, I could place my order tomorrow. If the KH frame donā€™t flex, brake rub is a non-factor. To be honest, the only reason I even considered the Triton is the weld on mount rather than a KH with a bolt on UCM. Iā€™m not much a bling factor kind of guy.

Loving my Impulse, I insist on keeping it stock as a complete back up ride for when my Schlumpf is in the shop. I have heard that same suggestion from MountainUni1 and kb1jki but I think they are just digging the irony of mounting a UCM on an Impulse frame.

well, Idunno if itā€™s proper to brag about someone elseā€™s rig, butā€¦

The Schlumpf/Uni-Caliper Mount-MountainUni disc/Kh works, why wouldnā€™t it work on an impulse frame? (Yeah, itā€™s ironic to put MountainUni disc on an Impulse frame, but why fix what ainā€™t broke? The impulse is a beautiful frame, Then again so is the KH and Triton for that matterā€¦ I understand your dilemma!)

How to purchase torque wrenches for your Schlumpf

I thought the ā€œHow to order a Schlumpf hubā€ thread would be a good place to ask the experts about torque wrenches. I vowed to spare no expense on routine maintenance so i guess i will bite the bullet and purchase the ratcheting ā€œclick typeā€ by Park Tools.

The TW-5 3-15 Newton Meter range (26-132 Inch Pounds) Adjustable to 0.4 Nm increments has a Ā¼ā€ drive with 3/8ā€ adaptor that should fit the Allen bit 6mm for 3/8ā€ wrench or torque wrench that Florian includes in the package. Kris says ā€œWhen fitting the hub, Tighten the Allen screws on the side with the knurled bearing sur-face to moderate hand pressure (max. 5-6 Nm)ā€ but then there are a few places where the torque of the clamp screws work very well with 4 Nm. There is a warning that the bearings may get damaged when the torque is too high.

The TW-6 10-60 Newton Meter range (88-530 Inch Pounds) Adjustable to 0.2 Nm increments that should fit any old 8mm Hex Bit Socket. Florian says ā€œPlease use a torque wrench and tighten crank arm to 50-55 Nm (40 lbft).ā€ (note to self: corbin uses use 25-30 ft pounds, which is 33-40Nm and thinks 50Nm is too high, and deforms the soft aluminum.)

The TW-6 is $120 and the TW-5 is $100 !ouch! Is there a cheaper way? Do I need to buy any other tools to prepare for my Schlumpf hub? I never used my CCP-22C Cotterless Crank Arm Removal Tool. Chickened out and had my LBS change the cranks on my Impulse. I donā€™t want to purchase more tools than I need.

For the lower range, I got a torque wrench at Sears for around $60 (but it may have been on sale).
I figured precision not quite as critical for the crank bolts, so I got a cheap torque wrench in the higher range at Harbor Freight Tools. It was $30 or so.

Hey Terry, I donā€™t know if our orders are coming in the same shipment, you orderd a few weeks before meā€¦

I was hoping to have it before leaving for Colorado in early June, but Iā€™d be suprised if it makes it on time, but Iā€™m hoping :slight_smile:

I think yellow/silver/black is a nice color combo :slight_smile:

Yeah I ordered mine about 3 weeks ago, but I donā€™t know how soon Bronson actually ordered it, as I just told him I wanted one over the phone, and he said it would take about a month. I just got an email from him a few days ago, and he estimates another couple weeks or so.

I am waiting too. The best thing to do is to put it out of your mind and be surprised when it finally shows up. The one I ordered last year took about 3 months. Bronson said it has been quicker lately, but there are no guarantees.