Up for sale is “Florian Green”, a 36er Guni with the following parts (all parts new except the rim). It has been on one 15 mile shakedown ride.
Frame - custom “V” design with unique “X” braces at top and reinforcing tabs at the 40mm bearing holders, 26.8 seat tube, 25.4 handlebar tube, with green bolt-on front clamp and adjustable black seat clamp.
Hub - Florian Schlumpf road model, gen. 2, black, 1.0 & 1.5 gear ratios.
Cranks - Florian Schlumpf logo, 165mm, black.
Pedals - Odyssey PC.
Rim - Airfoil, original anodized model that fits all tires (used).
Tire - Radial TA 36".
Spokes - 14g stainless steel.
Nipples - black alloy.
Saddle - KH Freeride, dark green trim.
Handlebars - custom 12" long alloy, adjustable angle, with brake mount. I can install any tape color you want.
Brake - Echo hydraulic, CNC’d, green anodized lever and brake mounts.
This would be a righteous RTL or other distance race uni. Weighs 18.9 lbs. Parts alone were $1700. Asking $2000. o.b.o.
Also will consider selling the wheelset alone for $1200. (what it cost).
I’m in Seattle area.
The V frame is simply a design that gives support to both of the upper areas of rider contact, i.e. the seat and the bars. It is just my experience and opinion that a hand position about a foot in front of the hips works best. I realize that others have differing opinions, but this type of 3-point contact with the uni allows more subtle balance corrections. Plus you have alot of hand positions along the bars.
As for hands-free riding, that is a very good question (given my bar position), but the fact is that any unicycle can easily be ridden hands free.
For mounting, I grasp the left bar at the base, by the brake lever (I’m right foot forward). For someone who has always grasped the saddle itself, it may take a few tries to get used to it, but I quickly found it second nature. And I am by no means a good rider, my starts are still 1 in 3 on any uni. So I find that grasping about 5" forward from the seat is better for balance inputs. Faster speeds are more comfortable with a more forward hand position.
Speed is only limited by your mind. You have to train yourself to ride above 15mph and ignore the fact that you can’t run that fast. Like anything else, the more you do it the more comfortable & fun it gets.
The Schlumpf is the only guni that can shift on the fly, with the shift buttons on either side activated by your heel. The left side is a gold button for the 1.5 ratio. Most riders start by shifting up on the fly on level ground, then graduate to down-shifting as you slow for a hill.
The Schlumpf button tools are also included, and as I said I’d be glad to re-tape the bars any color you want.
I built the frame myself. It started life as a Nimbus frame, which I cut apart and TIG brazed into this configuration. So the bearing holders are the stock 40mm Nimbus. The X braces in the center clear the tire by about 3/8" on each side, which is plenty. The tabs down by the bearing holders were relocated to the inside of the frame legs, for better support for the hub’s torque arm lever. The brake mounts were cut and rebrazed on the rear legs. The handlebar tube is the stock Nimbus tube (25.4mm ID), and the seat tube is butted chrome-moly (26.8mm ID). So even though I “borrowed” most of the tubes from a Nimbus, it was still quite a bit of fabrication.