Those are uni cranks? They look real nice but I never understood what Q factor is. what is it?
These are not uni cranks, and the smallest they go is 160mm.
0 Q-factor means cranks are fully straight (for exemple QU-AX 125 and 145, Nimbus Venture), 1cm Q-factor means distance between feet will be 2cm higher, 1cm per side (for exemple KH Moment). Q-factor is better for control, especially for MUNI, but little bit wobbly for 36" a hight speed
Oh thank you I understand now
I would say that they are not designed specifically for unicycles but they work great if you like longer (160 or 165mm) cranks for MUni.
My 160mm Echo cranks have served me well on my 26"
Its interesting how they now say “Additional Information
Not suitable for use on ‘normal’ bicycles or unicycles.” http://tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?product_id=11194&category_id=23 I wonder why not regular bicycles 
People Tearing their shins open? I wonder why not unicycles. Sure, they’re not going to hold up to pedal grabs, but I can’t see them failing on a coker.
That is a bit freaky - they’re working fine on my muni (after swapping a few pins to get more grip). They’re probably just worried about people getting nasty pedal bites and then moaning - DMR pinned pedals come with a warning saying “competition use only”.
Rob
I’m using my Echo’s on my Muni too now, I used them on my trials for like 2 week and I bent the body on a pedal grab. I’d like to have Echo pins on my Trials though, I need more grip on my pedals.
So did you put in longer pins? Where’d you get the pins and how much $?
(every pedal I’ve tried needed to do likewise to get sufficient grip for me)
I just swapped the four corner pins for plain grub screws like in DMR or Wellgo pedals. They’re no longer, but have a sharper top (the Echo ones are very nicely made but are much less sharp - almost rounded edges). Didn’t cost me anything because I had a load of them lying around, but they’re the same as the ones used as pins in other pedals so you could salvage some from a dead pair of pedals, or buy a pack of DMR replacement pins. They’re cheaper if you just buy them from a hardware shop (have to check the thread - I’d guess they’re M4).
Because the holes for the pins go all the way through the pedal body on the Echos, you can’t do plain grub screws up tight and need to fix them in with something to stop them unscrewing. I did mine with threadlock, but that wasn’t enough. They’re superglued now.
BTW - I think what we call “grub screws” are known as “set screws” in the USA. Causes all sorts of confusion because a “set screw” here is the same as a bolt (i.e. with a head), but with the thread all the way up the shaft (a bolt has a plain shaft with thread only at the end). Anyway, what you want is the things that have no head - you’ve probably seen them on other pedals anyway.
Rob
I wonder why they don’t use grub screws already. Wouldn’t they be lighter than the ones with the external hex flange? It might save 10g or something, and as they are meant to be pimpy light pedals, that would seem useful.
Sam
I think the idea is that the Echo design is better for people who mash their pedal pins against things (trials and street riders). The flange gives a more stable attachment to avoid them getting ripped out, and they don’t rely on the allen key hole for removal so are easier to replace when smashed up. Makes no difference to me as a muni/xc rider, so I’m happy with plain screws. The Echo pins are actually very nice, just not as sharp as I’m used to.
Rob
i just got some blue TR pedals. there sick. and probably the lightest pedal out there for under 80 bucks. ive heard about people breaking the SLs with the Ti spindle so im not so sure about those. i think joe H and mike padial are riding the TRs as well.
if your looking to get some in the US get them from HBtrials.com there located in canada but i got mine within a week.
Thanks for the website:), I was looking for somewhere I could get these pedals, I bet they’re awesome. They don’t have blue in stock anymore:(