DIY cord spokes

I cannot understand what everyone is saying. We can make a dual cross at the hub side with 2 hub holes, we can cut a spoke near the end, sand the edge a bit and insert it in a glue before pushing it inside a free cord end without infringing any patent (no similiar hub engagement a no chinese fingertrap)… I read somewhere Galieleo said that everyvrope works like a chinesefinger trap, so no one will need to make a chinesefinger trap (infringin any patent) on the cord, but however anyone can push a spoke covered with glue inside a spoke end to use the native rope phisics rules which’ll make the inner rope squeeze around the glued spokes when in tension.

I won’t help anymore. The easiest and legal way is in front of you all. So it’s up to you. Within a week I’ ll be ready to test for 4/5 unis (a 29er with alu q-uaxle and carbon rim awayiting and a 36er exceed and hub awaiting with a carbon rim too)

There’d be no way to true the wheel with a single continuous spoke, and it’d probably rip through the rim between the spoke holes.

With a double length rope spoke you can do whatever you like and not infringe on Berd’s patent, but I was hoping to find a solution which still allowed the rope spokes to be removed from the hub without cutting the spokes. With ends glued on, you’d have to destroy the spokes to get them out of the hub.

The technique used in the video above would permit disassembly without destruction, but you would still have to disassemble the eye splices. Quite a bit of work making those back up again, and I suspect perhaps rather difficult to do with a tapered end?

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Do you have a plan to get the rope in tension while the glue dries? If not properly tensioned I could imagine that the rope will not be tight against the spoke and that tightening up (moving of the threads) could cause failure of the glue bond. I think someone had this issue on the mtbr thread.

Would you also plan to cut to length and roll the spoke threads before or after gluing? It seems like after would make getting the length correct easier as there’s no other adjustment, aside from lengthing one end of the double spoke and loosening the other.



I’ll use exactly those 2 solutions and go on testing untill I find how much it will stretch. It will take long working nights, but it’ll be doable. Thank you for founding a valuable and cheap dealer of DM20. There are 50 meters less on Amazon uk now

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What wheel size are you going for?

I’m keen to give this a go but it’s a bit of a way down my list so I’m very keen to see how your experiments go.

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I just had a bit more of a look into the Mastrant M though, and it looks like it is only a Dyneema braided core, with a polyester braid outer, so it’s probably no good for what we need.
I did wonder why it was seemingly so much cheaper than the alternatives.

It seems the MTBR thread mentions it too:

Apologies if I’ve unintentionally led you in the wrong direction and I hope you can either cancel that Amazon order, or find a use for 50m of very nice looking (but unsuitable for this) 2mm cord.

I guess most folk who are interested in this will be keeping an eye on Ali C’s videos trying out his “rope spoke” front wheel etc, but for completeness here is his latest video where he is giving the front wheel a fair bit of abuse with some more trials moves. I watched the Patreon one which is slightly longer but the general YouTube one probably has most of what is pertinent:

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No prob. It’s Amazon…

I got it. I’m not happy about it. Cannot ride tubeless to avoid detensioning. Cannot match a 29 tube with my Brauss rim. Cannot find a Presta 36er tube (worldwide shortage) and drilled the valve hole of the carbom rim. Got a 36er tube with bad Schrader valve (too big and out of specs). The spokes dumpen, but also flexes: side movement and power dampening while under high torque. To get enought tension I used: long, short, reversed and ended with inverted nipples (do you know about inverted nipple’s existance?). Short cranks allow to lessen the wobble and avoid side movement or rubbing. The spokes elongations makes the rim micromove and allow the hub (and the disc) to stay in the right position. No more disc brake issues when cornering, high torque or other common situation.

I’m not happy due to money wasted and weight saving denied by the tube. Right now it is 6.3kgs

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I cut again the spokes at the hub while riding to work today. :sob: I already rebuilt it 4 or 5 times. It’s making me crazy.

I’ll rebuilt it again changing method. I will write again whitin a couple of months

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