Disc Brake Reviews: Post what you got!

Unicycles and Equipment
21

Tightened up the D’brake mount according to the picture so now ill see how long it stays tight! So far it has been lovely feeling with zero vibrations :slight_smile:

You guys get hand cramps when you brake?? I have never had to hold onto the brake that hard. It honestly feels a lot easier than the maggies and almost to easy at times! Im using an MT2 and 180mm disc with 145s on a 24inch (maybe thats why i dont get cramps :p)

The only different thing about disc that I have noticed with riding is that when Im riding fast down a hill and appling the brake is that the unicycle wants to pull out in front of me. So ill be riding and stand up and the seat will be out in front of me while im braking. It is actaully pretty odd to see

Heres a question for you guys

Is there a way that I can bring the lever closer to my fingers?? I got short fat buggars and I have to move my hand down to get it to the lever. Ive moved everything as close as I can but the lever still sticks out about a half inch away from my finger when it is extended out.

22

Have you already adjusted the lever inward using the star nut which is accessed through the front of the handle?

If that’s still not close enough, you could add spooner or starfighter to make the lever thicker.

After that, I guess you could bend you brake mount or use spacers to lift the rearmost attachment points

I suppose that changes things to a degree, giving more braking “distance” on the rotor per revolution, but the amount is really insignificant, 10%??, not enough for me to notice at least. Local bikers in Tennessee tend to favor smaller rotors because the mountains are “short”, whereas the big DH folks out west who ride long downhills favor the bigger rotors, but it’s really about maintaining a cool rotor to avoid burning your pads. I had some pad “cooking” on my 29er with a 160/180mm rotor, but it is since resolved with a big 200mm rotor

23

I have looked at that rotor before and it looks pretty good- although could it be a bit too wide to work the the KH Spirit mount system?

I’d love to upgrade to discs and I will eventually but it is a big cost to upgrade from maguras. I’d prefer to get a new KH frame with the welded disc mount because it looks better and so you don’t have to take the bearing holder with the brake off everytime you take your wheel out of the frame! Also the D mount would require a lot of machining which could be costly.

So heres what I’m thinking I’ll do when I upgrade to discs for the 26 all mountain + downhill rig.

New KH frame with welded frame mount -$240 (sell my current kh26’’ frame)

Spirit cranks 150/127 - $170 does any one know why it says 160 mm or 180 mm disc here http://www.krisholm.com/khu/spirit I get why you can’t have a 160mm disc but why not a 203mm disc?)

Then for a brake I was thinking

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=82434 Shimano Zee Disc Brake M640 $224

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=54868 $220 Shimano XTR Race M985 Disc Brake

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=83173 Shimano SLX M675 Disc Brake looks like a great cheaper option @ $146

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=73474 Hope Tech X2 Evo Front Brake cheaper than I though hope brake would be, I really like how you can get it fitted with braided hose at $210 love the hope machining too.

All those brakes have good reviews and pretty good weights. I want to get a reliable brake and one that can take a bit of a beating.

For a rotor I’m not sure weither to get 160/180 or 203- I’d prefer to have a smaller rotor thats more out of the way with more modulation just as long as it have enough heat distribution and power. Shimano XT/Saint RT86 Ice-Tech 6-Bolt Disc Rotor looks good but seems kinda pricey for $50 a rotor

Or maybe a hope floating rotor.

Or this one is even cheaper just looks like an older model for about $40 http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=39007

Or Avid HS1 Heat-Shedding 140/160/180/200mm Rotor for $50

And finally a KH Starfighter Brake Lever Extension for $40

Far out so with new frame + new spirit cranks + hope brake + rotor+ starfighter it comes to a wooping $700! - say minus $160 for selling my current KH frame, so about $540 Eeeeek thats an expensive upgrade haha- might not happen for a while :astonished:

Any thoughts on my plan and what brake do you think looks best?

24

Smooooth…

Thanks for this, it’s fixed my vibration problem, which I’d been assuming was something to do with the brake adjustment, or the pads.

I’d followed the instruction per tightening the brake side fully and first, but I’d overlooked or forgotten the specific 3mm detail for the other side; I had it closer than that, and the high-speed vibration on braking was both LOUD and painful as it transmitted through my hand and arm! Loosened the caliper on that side back to c. 3mm, and braking is smooth and quiet.

I was nearly on the point of replacing parts to fix it, so that’s saved me some money, time, and disappointment.

Remember, kids, rtfm.

25

Used this method and I still feel vibration. I tightened up the D’brake mount the opposite way and there was no vibration :thinking:

I honestly dont mind it as long as my bearing holder doesnt come loose. That is when i experience most vibration.

Also to note:
This method I get A LOT more squealing. The pads are in a different position than before so maybe this could be a cause of sqeaking??? (i dont know)

26

OK! so i got bit by the disk bug and i am doing a spirits and was wondering what is a really good break that wont brake the bank.

27

I like the older radial master cylinder Shimano SLX Chain reaction have them for £60 then add a cheap rotor and your laughing. The slx and xt shimano brakes have a servo wave feature that keeps the pads clear of the rotor to stop rubbing then the initial lever pull moves the pads quickly then as they hit the rotor a cam in the lever drops to increase the force.

28

Just a quick question - when choosing a disk brake… Do you go for a front and rear one? Is there a mechnical difference or just the mount/adapter - I am referring to Hope or Magura brands as these two on my debating list for a future uni :slight_smile: -

Cheers
M.B

29

Doesn’t matter, just be careful as some rear adapter can be used for a front brake but with a different disc diameter !

140 IS (international standard) rear = 160 IS (international standard) front

30

This ^

The only other thing is hose length and sometimes the levers are sided but us unicyclists care not for such things.

Another thing to consider is the angle of the reservoir some set ups while fine on bikes let air into the system due to the angle of the lever under the seat. Ideally you want a radial mounted master cylinder (runs from the lever hinge to the clamp rather than one that runs straight forward).

31

Hopes are losing their spot as the brake of choice in Trials now though, Shimano seem to have come out of nowhere with some extremely well priced and effective brakes. I know some people swear by Hopes but from my experience unless you buy brand new they tend to be a pain in the ass.
I’d definately agree with either a low model Shimano or the MT2 but also if anyone spots an Echo TR disc going cheap it’s worth picking one up, the discs are a bit hard so take some bedding in but other than that they are superb, also run mineral oil and you bleed them like a magura which makes life very easy. I run Echo TR calipers front and rear with some £15 Shimano levers on my trials bike and they are the best brakes I’ve used so far. So much so that when I get a muni frame sorted in the next few weeks I’m gonna source another setup like this to go on!

34

Mechanical disc brake

I see mechanical disk brakes on MTB’s also. Are these usable at a cheaper price or are they not worth the effort ? Seems like they would be easier to mount due to no hyd. hose or bleeding but maybe not.

35

They are big so don’t fit on the spirit crank disk setup. Not tried on the oracle hub but should work.

Hydraulic brakes are fit and forget as self adjusting where cable ones need to be adjusted for wear. I have been using discs on bikes for years the really are trouble free once setup.

Get a nice cheap Shimano setup ideally one with the servo wave lever as they are good value and disc rub free

36

Ben has tried to get a mech brake working on an Oracle hub setup and was unable to find one that wasn’t too thick. See the first 3-4 pages of this thread: Disk Brake choice for new Nimbus hub

I tried putting a Tektro Aquila on a MountainUni crank based setup but it was about 2mm too wide (cleared the crank but not the spokes). I’d be very happy to learn of a significantly thinner mechanical caliper.

37

Noe being an MTB rider for many years so was about when disc bakes genuinely came about I remember these puppies

Hydraulic Cable actuated brakes

Time to start searching retro bike parts :smiley:

38

Hayes?

I have a line on a Hayes El Camino or a Hayes “9” (?), both front brakes. Has anyone got experience with these? The price is good (~$65) compared to what new brakes cost so I thought I’d try one - unless they’re known not to fit or are total crap. Reviews on pinkbike are only moderate but they may reflect expectation based on new prices which for the ElCamino were really high.

If they’ll work I’ll be installing on a KH 36 (with mount), with a 180mm rotor.

39

How much are Shimano Deore M596 discs on your side of the pond? Dirt cheap over here and they work great! Would definately recommend one.

40

I recently installed a Shimano XT M785 brake with an SLX 180mm rotor on my KH26 and it works fantastic. This is my first experience running Shimano brakes and they are proving to be rub free and have great modulation. I’m used to the Hope Tech V2’s with floating rotors(203mm/185mm)on my MTB and I’m happy to say that I’m sold on these newer Shimano brakes.

P.S: It was really Feisty’s “Servo Wave” sales pitch that turned me on to Shimano brakes. Thanks

42

Just a follow up on the Magura MT2:

They do not stand up to long term use, both sets of my MT2 have lost the ability to adjust the lever position. It is not something that can be fixed, the design is defective. DO NOT BUY these brakes.

Also, my spare brake, a Bengal Helix which came on my Oregon is no longer operational, the lever won’t return. It has minimal use so I’m assuming it just froze up while in storage. So it’s been canned, yet another brake that did not stand up to the test of time.

On a positive note, I have been using a Shimano BR M596 which uses some of the newer XTR tech, two finger lever, great power, and only $80 USD (no rotor or adaptor).

D Brake and Oracle frame compatibility with the External Rotor standard:

Unlike the hub mounted rotors where the caliper and D Brake are mounted on the left side of the uni, for a crank mounted rotor you mount the D Brake on the right side of the uni. Depending on the thickness of the crank spacer used, you may need to add thin washers between the IS adaptor and the D Brake in order to get the caliper to line up with the rotor. Otherwise it works quite well.

43

Does yours also lock in one position sometimes? Sometimes after a fall my lever will get locked up and it makes a horrible sound trying to unseize it.

Ive noticed that the adjustment is pure shit after a while, it works but has A LOT of play in it.

Lastly have you tried replacing the lever blade? You need special tools from magura just to do it… so stupid.