No, you can run an outboard disk on a any ISIS wheelset. You can buy a stock Nimbus muni and put an outboard disk on it. If you want to put an inboard disk on it, then you would have to rebuild the wheel with a disk hub.
If you’re buying an Oracle, just use an inboard disk since that is what it’s set up for.
Outboard is easier to retro, it doesn’t require a new wheel build, it also allows a symmetrical wheel build which is stronger and has less flex.
I changed from inboard to outboard when the Spirits came out and have had no problems.
Does anyone know if the spykes would be possible on a Schlumpf wheel?
disc brake mount on a Nimbus frame?
Has anyone silver-braised or welded a disc brake mount onto a steel Nimbus Muni frame? And if so, is there any reason why you couldn’t put an inboard or outboard disc brake set-up on it?
I didn’t do it myself but I had disc tabs successfully welded on two Nimbus muni frames (including two on one) and a Surly Conundrum frame. They are all inboard. Looking at the one outboard setup I have with a D’Brake I don’t see how the geometry would work, but that’s not my strong suit.
Why not use the d’brake? It works just fine with inboard and outboard disc. I use the d’brake on my qu-ax steel frame with an outboard disc and it works fine. I don’t believe there’s so much difference between nimbus and qu-ax steel frames.
Thanks Waaalrus, for confirming that it has been done. In theory, I would think the mount (tab) would be in the same location whether it is for an inboard or outboard disc brake set-up. Has anyone set up one of the newer KH frames with an inside disc set-up attached to the stock frame mount?
Eric, I have read there are problems with the D’brakes chattering, bending, and breaking. Also, any time you take it off you would have to realign it to the disc. I wonder if Nimbus is going to add a mount to most of their frames in the future. It seems as if it would save them some money, and it would be a better design overall. Don’t get me wrong–I think the D’brakes are a really cool idea for retrofitting frames that don’t have mounts/tabs.
Nimbus was the first company to offer frames with a disk tab.
The epic Mountainuni disc brake thread has many examples of caliper mounts welded onto steel frames before there were bolt-on adapters. I skimmed the whole thing pretty quickly and it’s a couple of weeks since I did, but I don’t recall any reports of problems–just that most seemed to prefer not having to deal with welding or finding someone to do it for them.
Nope - don’t have to realign mine when refitting, it retains the brake position just fine.
I switched to welded-on disc tabs after busting a D’Brake. I suspect it’s more likely to break (or maybe quicker to do so) when it’s on a steel frame like I had it. This was also on a freewheel unicycle and I use the brake hard and a lot. It may have a longer life on a fixed wheel unicycle and perhaps the problem could be mitigated by paying close attention to the state of it. However, one break was enough for me. It probably failed at the best possible time and still trashed my rotor and caliper. A worse time could send me over a cliff.
Thanks for your replies!
Waaalrus–were the tabs you had welded on pre-made (and where to get them?) or were they homemade?
Killian–Why did Nimbus stop putting tabs on their frames?
LargeEddie–Thanks for pointing out the disc brake thread; I didn’t know about it. Epic is a good description–it will take a few days for me to work my way through it.
Nimbus stopped putting tabs on their frames because it was too hard to monitor the tolerances over seas. They got a run of frames with tabs that weren’t exactly ‘straight’ and had to be shimmed. This was apparently enough for them to back out.
I now have a frame with a tab on it, and many with D brakes. I like my tabbed frame because Jacob’s have are quite a bit sturdier than the standard tabs. His has an additional ‘foot’ that runs up the frame a couple of inches.
However, running a TRP Spyre brake, it was harder to get sufficient clearance with the tabbed frame than with a D brake. I made it happen, but it’s a bit more tedious.
I think D brakes are excellent. They are an easy fit, cheap, and do the job.
I have 3 D-brake on my 26, 29 and 36; 26 and 29 with disc on Oracle hub and 36 with disc on Spirit crank. I regularly have crack noise on my 36 and already bent 2 or 3 bolts which tighten the D-brake to the frame. Does someone have the same experience ?
Shimano BR-M575
Hello,
I’ve done a search, but can’t seem to pull up anything specifically referring to the Shimano M575 brake. I see there here where I live for sale at around £50 with everything needed inc 160mm disc.
I don’t want a very powerful expensive brake - just something that’ll help slow my soon to arrive KH36er (2012) - anyone have any direct experience with this brake?
I like the fact it is listed as being compatible with the KH system.
Thanks in advanced
Felix
The Spyre model is not available in NZ, but the HY/RD model is. Looks like a newer version of the Sypre. It seems like no-one has used this model on a unicycle yet, so I was wondering about whether it would work or not. I called the local supplier of these brakes today and asked them to measure the calipers’ width. The main body is 35mm across and is 40mm at the widest point (where the cable attaches to the caliper). Will this have enough clearance to use with a KH Spirit-mounted rotor?
One other TRP-related question - has anyone changed their Spyre or Spyke brakes to 180mm rotors? If so does this improve clearance and which adaptor did you use? (I’m still not entirely sure about front post to IS adaptors - are these all the same and interchangeable between manufacturers or do you have to use a TRP adaptor with a TRP brake and a Shimano adaptor with a Shimano brake and so forth?)
Larger rotors should help, but I don’t have any experience with the TRP brakes to be more specific. The adapters are generally interchangeable, with Avids being less so. As long as you use the orbital washers with the avid adapters they seem to work with other calipers, and you have to ditch the alignment washers to use non Avid adapters with avid calipers.
Yes…
I’m glad to report that the TRP HY/RD model works brilliantly! Very easy to fit and no need to shim rotors or other malarkey. Clearance between caliper and KH Spirit 127/150mm crank is not an issue. Went for a quick test ride down the short but steep hill at the end of my street and liked the feel and power of the brake a lot. Can’t wait to try it on some really steep offroad hills!
