Here is another view of the brake installed. Just for perspective, the rotor is about 1mm thick. This gives an idea of how tight the clearances are here.
Hey so i am purchasing my components now, bought a pair of used Elixer 3 series Hydraulic disk lever and caliper got 50% off cause they were used.
Model: Elixer CR SL
Link here:
Purchased a shimano 6 bolt disk, new (got a deal on it as well)
Model:Doere Xt Sm-rt75
I am going to get a bracket for the caliper, any ideas or suggestion on what i need to mount it to the D Brake mount? I will get one when the bracket comes in, i get the disk mounted and take it back to the bike shop… I am also order the Lever mount for KH seats on UDC, anything else i need? I was interested in the spoort handle but i don’t know if it will work with a hydraulic system? Was also un able to find it on UDC.
Any suggestions, tips or info would be great!
Depending on whether you got a 160mm or 180mm rotor, you need either a 160mm or 180mm front post mount adaptor to mount the caliper to the D brake. (Like this.)
it is 160 mm, thanks for the info =D
More on my installation progress. I’ve got the frame and screws to the point where the wheel turns. As for Tuscon Uni, very tight clearance.
Everything seems functional, but I’m concerned that the pads do not appear to be properly aligned with the rotor. The pads are only about half way on to the rotor. I used the Magura IS adapter for a 180mm rotor, and yes I confirmed it is in fact a 180 rotor. But it looks to me like the adapter is putting the caliper too far out. Any thoughts?
You used the QM-10 adapter which is for 180 REAR
You should use the QM-12 which is for 180 FRONT (or 160 REAR)
See the difference here:
For everybody out there buying a disk brake: You always need the FRONT adapter!
^what he said, a 180F is the same as a 160R, so your 180R is a 200F
Ug. At least I spotted it before killing the pads. 
Off to LBS. …
Also, I’m glad I didn’t use the provided screws with the red loctite on them.
Kicking myself, I know I’ve read that advice before.
So i went to my local bike shop and got a small hand to have some of it set up. After all they are the experts =D So after about and hour and a half of tinkering it is all set up. Seems to be working well, i don’t have the spacing of the caliper on the braket quite right, but i will mess with it. The spacing between the caliper and the crank is like 1mm >_< but it clears.
A 160mm front caliper bracket was not all that was needed, as the photo shows i did need some spacers and what not to get it to all fit, but it was a relatively easy retro fit. There is a spacer between the D Brake and the caliper bracket.
The Magura MT2 is definitely narrower than your Avid.
The side view seems to show a scratch around your rotor - you might check for a shard of metal or something on your pads.
I have the Oracle but it doesn’t seem to have a pad adjustment screw. I could only change the lever up or down, but I need to reduce pad travel as well. Does anyone know if these [bengal] brakes have a pad adjustment, and if so, where?
I finally got out for my first ride with the brake over the weekend (it’s been really smoky here for a couple weeks due to fires in Idaho).
Everything worked great - at first. I resolved the clearance issues with grinding the frame and disc retaining screws. Everything lined up perfectly (I did have to put washers between the D’Brake and the IS adaptor). Braking was amazing, super smooth, super powerful, very nice modulation.
However, after a few minutes of braking, my brake developed a loud hum and vibration that’s so bad I can’t really even use the brake now.
I’ve started another thread to address general disc brake problems, hopefully sombody can get me back to my initial disc brake nirvana.
Pull the pads, lightly sand off the “sheen”, then wipe the rotor with alcohol, and take it for a ride. Try riding the brake lightly for a little while to allow the pad to seat into the rotor.
I had this happen on my 29er the other day, did the above, now it’s fine.
Thanks Ben, I’ll give that a try. I admit I didn’t exactly give the pads time to wear in - I gave a couple little test pulls, then started down one of the steepest sections of trail I’ve ever ridden.
Yes you did as I wrote it 
Rookie question: uni Nimbus Drak + KH Spirit Cranks (to fix disc) + Nimbus D’Brake mount (to fix caliper). Will it work?
Yep. You may need to mess with spacing using some washers to get everything line up just right but it’ll work.
So I wasnt sure if I should post here, or in this thread Disk Brake choice for new Nimbus hub. It kind of relates to both topics, so I decided on this thread because it is not as old. I also would like to say that I am not going to try this, but somebody else may find it useful.
Obviously, there is not enough clearance to use a mechanical caliper on outboard disks, and it appeared that there was not enough clearance to use mechanicals on one of the inboard Nimbus disk hubs (there were pictures from Ben, but they are no longer there). I am curious if someone could use spirit cranks with a left side inboard disk? There is more clearance with spirits than moments, so it seems it may work. If someone wants to use a meachanical disk brake, than this may be something to look into.
Yes. But D-brake and caliper will be backwards too. At least thats how mine went.