i think if the clamps are mounted with rubber on the inside (they will be original) the clamping force is very good. However, this system is not designed to mount a T at the front, there is the KH T-Bar for that. It is a one-hand operation with a brake in the middle. So you can easily use both hands and change before tight corners. That works fine. On dirt roads and off-road I only have one hand on the saddle anyway. On tar roads I put my hands on top of each other or grab the handles one after the other.
As soon as I have the 25.4mm seatposts for the Miyata saddle, I will test this combination extensively, because these saddles were actually not bad, but the handles were not ergonomic and you could not mount a brake holder either. With this handlebar, a forgotten saddle comes back into focus. I’m curious how this new combination is to be driven
It’s nice to see solutions that take into account historical products as well as all the latest and greatest new fancy stuff.
Sometimes things appear for a few years and then basically disappear off the face of the earth, becoming almost unobtainable when you need replacement parts, and also being incompatible with everything else out there.
For me, the Miyata saddle was the first viable saddle back in the 90’s. Before that I rode with the steel bracket saddle (also my 24h Record 1991 ) which felt like 1mm foam with a steel plate underneath and two terrible screw threads with nuts on the side, which quickly broke every pair of cycling trousers and - with my 24h record - even penetrated the skin pierced the flesh. (sorry it’s all google translation 
Still looks very comfy, compared to the saddle I learned on 
I started riding Imholz unicycles in the early 1980s. None of them had unicycle saddles, but even more uncomfortable bicycle saddles. I don’t know how I managed to ride this one
Here is the Picture with the Velo-Plate MUni -Saddle
you could push the handle 2 - 3cm forward. Where the ridge is is the 3rd contact point.
Now I was finally able to test the QX saddle.
The Unicon Handle is therefore also compatible with QX and Kris Holm saddles (they use the same base plate)
17:46
here is a small modification: handlebar grip with ball. In addition, the ONE4ALL T brake lever attachment. So I can not only grab the brake from the side, but also from the front or both. Changing hands becomes very easy while driving because you can brake with both hands. The aim is to mount a larger ball at the end of the handlebars, which fits ergonomically into the ball of the hand. Something similar to the QU-AX pogostick foot. Now I’m still looking and working on the perfect handlebars. Disadvantage of this assembly: The brake handle is less protected
493 / 5.000
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Now the Miyata compatible 25.4mm seat posts have arrived and I mounted the Unicon Handle on my Fatty. It works really well. The Saddle ist with the Bar much stiffer. Since it allows for narrow leg guidance and is fairly flat, it should be of interest to touring riders. My “normal” MUni saddle is a bit more comfortable, but the 5km commute to work went smoothly.
I like it! Is that a M4O cromo frame?
No, this is an in-house development with a track width of 120mm. The fork is made of CrMo with round tubes (very stiff) and the unicycle is called (derived from that) CrMonster (little pun)
Ok cool, i I think I’m going to pick up a mad 4 one Chromo frame for a fatty build basically just like yours but in 27.5
Is your frame produced for sale? if so do you ship to the USA?
Yes you can buy the Frame here:
https://www.einradshop.ch/einrad-kaufen-schweiz/einradgabeln/1598-one4all-crmonster-fattygabel.html
And the Hub
Shipping to the US will probably cost a small fortune.
I haven’t unlocked it US in my shop, but we could do it manually.
You can contact me by email. You can find the address in the shop.
What’s the thinking around having the frame reversible with two brake tabs? Are you expecting failures there?
That’s what it says in the description of the fork: it was done deliberately. It’s like a built-in spare part. You have mirror-inverted brake sockets + cable guides. If there is a problem on one side (bent, torn off, imprecise etc.) you can simply rotate the fork 180 degrees instead of throwing it away.
I’m wondering if i can use my 125mm nimbus hub with this frame?
No, the track width is 120mm. Please note that this post is about handlebars and not about forks
small update for my Unicon handlebars in combination with a Miyata (similar) saddle: The brake lever was now mounted in front of the handle. With the ball grip, I can now grip the brake lever from the front. I used a sturdy cable tie for the T-clamp. I can hang this on the handle if necessary. This has 2 advantages: In “normal operation” the brake handle is now closer to hand. 2. Advantage: Since the brake has an adjustment wheel for the braking point, I can now (you know it from the Maguras) turn it while driving until the brake pads brake continuously. Now I can take my hand completely off the brake lever. I tried that today and it was good to handle.
. I know there’s a risk of overheating, but it’s a nice option.
A third possibility is that if you have mounted the grip further back, the “ring” represents something like a remote control for the brake lever, i.e. you have your hand further forward and can still grab it.
Now it’s just a matter of finding the right material. I could also imagine a stable O-ring or a wide rubber band that you can then wrap once or twice, depending on the area of application.
That Garmin forerunner is a blast from the past!
Used to have one, was great for a decade, then fell apart.
Yeah, my thought is that a UPD that causes catastrophic damage to the forerunner won’t bother me. I have had it for almost 2 decades and can’t believe it still works as well as it does.