Eventually! I’ll have to use thicker tubing for that concept frame…
going for a test ride right now…
corbin
Nice! Double leg stays, cool connecting hoop, all it needs now is a Flatfish set and some paint 
My wife has four months until she graduates and can start working, so by next Summer I’ll be ready to start welding, TIG, SS.
First project: muni bars
Second project: muni bike rack
Third project: 29" guni-muni frame
Fourth project: 36" frame
Thanks for the project updates Corbin!
I’ve been puzzled as to why the Hunter 36 frame resisted twisting (and resulting brake rub) so much better than my Nimbus did. The 2nd tube addition results may offer an explanation. While the tubes of both frames may be 1/2", the hoops on the Hunter are much closer together than on the Nimbus. I realize the Hunter is cro-moly as well, but I suspect the geometry involved is much more important than the difference between the materials.
Pannier frame? Sounds good.
Looking nice Corbin!
It seems strange to me that you’d have a wider V angle than needed, if that is something which compromises stiffness? It could be reduced by having the handlebar’s vertical post following a straight line out from the wheel center, rather than going so far forward and then being angled back up, almost parallel to the seat post? Seems like the handle grips could be placed as they are with maybe 1/3 less length on the curved top tube.
Anyway, look forward to seeing it shiny and finished up!
Sam
Neither of my Nimbus double hoop steel frames flex appreciabley.
As far as I know, Nimbus uses chromoly steel tubing, for sure in the Oregon, likely in the old 36er too.
The Hunter probably uses better steel and is welded better, possibly having the hoops closer together, also the tubing wall thickness could play a part.
I like this frame project Corbin!
When trying to imagine riding this, I wonder, will there be any issues with your knees (or other parts of your legs) touching the frame?
Cato
I’d say the angled bearing bracket and the corresponding longer weld play a significant part as well.
solid gold fixes it all
yeah sam, I intentionally made it this way! Once you have a set distance from your seat to your handlebar, you don’t usually want to adjust it (well, bike seats can move for and aft a bit). Raising your handlebar shouldn’t also increase the distance you have to grab. If it comes up from the center of the wheel, then raising the handlebar up will also increase the distance…so, I intentionally avoided this.
But…maybe it isn’t the best way to do it, and a straight V, which would be easier, might be easier and stiffer.
corbin
Yeah, the shorter V will definitely have less flex. This is proved by the fact that me using two tubes close together eliminated the flex I was seeing. So the shorter V in the hunter, and the top tube, makes it flex a lot less.
corbin
Nope! This was another reason I wanted a wide V… (Sam, I forgot about this point too). Specifically so m knees don’t hit it. They clear it just fine.
corbin
It doesn’t; my tests show the flex is in the tubing, and not down at the bracket.
corbin
Some more details:
Painted frame, and completed pictures:
On the back of my harley:
looks great! how come you didnt use a normal seat post clamp
Could be the tube OD isn’t a unicycle/bike standard. Or just because he’s Corbin…
An integrated pinch bolt is way cooler than a seat clamp.
Tom has it right. People have non-integrated seat post clamps because they are cheaper to produce. Hand made bike frames generally have nice “braze on” touches like this.
corbin
That is awesome! How much weight does it reduce?
Not a whole lot… Especially if you already use a single-bolt.
Beautiful
Hey Corbin,
Very nice… a long way from welding shop and messing about with earlier handle bars
Mal