It seems strange to me that you’d have a wider V angle than needed, if that is something which compromises stiffness? It could be reduced by having the handlebar’s vertical post following a straight line out from the wheel center, rather than going so far forward and then being angled back up, almost parallel to the seat post? Seems like the handle grips could be placed as they are with maybe 1/3 less length on the curved top tube.
Anyway, look forward to seeing it shiny and finished up!
Neither of my Nimbus double hoop steel frames flex appreciabley.
As far as I know, Nimbus uses chromoly steel tubing, for sure in the Oregon, likely in the old 36er too.
The Hunter probably uses better steel and is welded better, possibly having the hoops closer together, also the tubing wall thickness could play a part.
I like this frame project Corbin!
When trying to imagine riding this, I wonder, will there be any issues with your knees (or other parts of your legs) touching the frame?
yeah sam, I intentionally made it this way! Once you have a set distance from your seat to your handlebar, you don’t usually want to adjust it (well, bike seats can move for and aft a bit). Raising your handlebar shouldn’t also increase the distance you have to grab. If it comes up from the center of the wheel, then raising the handlebar up will also increase the distance…so, I intentionally avoided this.
But…maybe it isn’t the best way to do it, and a straight V, which would be easier, might be easier and stiffer.
Yeah, the shorter V will definitely have less flex. This is proved by the fact that me using two tubes close together eliminated the flex I was seeing. So the shorter V in the hunter, and the top tube, makes it flex a lot less.
corbin
Tom has it right. People have non-integrated seat post clamps because they are cheaper to produce. Hand made bike frames generally have nice “braze on” touches like this.