Maybe @bouin-bouin still has one. He got a bunch from @jaco_flans earlier this year (or maybe last year) to save on shipping.
Yes, still I have 1 set !
Ok, first things first, I just bought a normal #RGB built with 180mm disc and starfighter:
I realized that the hub of the QX is already red, meaning that I don’t really like the combination with the frame color that I had in mind of M41 (bronze). Since the M41 frame (and seatpost) use a completely different diameter than the QX and the QX wheel isn’t that easily ordered off the website, I decided to go for the #RGB built now and once I’ve experienced its saddle, I will buy a M41 saddle as well.
Then in the mean time I’ll see what I’ll do with the M41 frame. I just sold 2 bikes and the 3rd is for sale, so there’s plenty of space left now to expand my hobby to uni’s a little 
Unfortunately no… it’s been exactly 14 days now since I started this hobby by myself, so I still have to get to know some people 
I did some reasoning in my mind regarding the experience I have with tires in the environments that I ride in. And compared that with the tires available for the #RGB build from QX.
The standard is Magic Mary. Then you can choose between Kenda Havok, Rocket Ron, Nobby Nic or High Roller II.
At first I wanted to go for the Rocket Ron to still have some rolling speed, but then I figured that I want to start with riding down stuff first, and the stronger grip and walls will help with that.
I’m also going to see if I can create a tubeless setup with rimpact pro tire inserts. This should definitely make the tire damp more and be better protected.
QX uses a completely different seat post diameter, therefore I would have to use M41 frame, clamp and seatpost as a whole already.
Hahaha, usually sponsors look for the young kids to sponsor. At 41 you’re usually not that attractive to sponsors anymore 
For sale? And where are you from?
Ohhh… you don’t wait, do you? All the best!
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If you’re going for the RGB thing then be sure to add some green and blue into your final design 
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It’s better to tag people with an @ to get their attention (it sends them an email). @bouin-bouin is in France, so sending to Europe should be reasonable price wise. Mondial Relay offers Belgium and the Netherlands and is pretty cheap.
Haha, no. I’m not that patient 
The photo above is exactly what I’ve ordered
I’ve downloaded all the photos from the website, made some masks in photoshop and combined various different options to see what I like best. Since you’re already stuck with the red hub anyway (disc can be easily replaced) I decided to go for the black with some red.
Here are some others that I had in mind:
I’ve already spoken to @bouin-bouin via messenger, but thanks for the tip!
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Just to keep this thread updated for those who are interested:
- The Qu-Ax 27.5" #RGB is a great machine, especially with 180mm Shimano Zee brake. I have the 137mm cranks mounted and the 127mm ready for future use.
- A Flansberrium T-bar is on it’s way from @bouin-bouin (unfortunately shipping is taking quite long)
- The Mad4One Frame (bronze) is in as well with the XXL seatpost (not yet mounted, waiting for the tire)
- I’ve ordered a WTB Ranger 27.5x3.0" because the downhill tire which is currently mounted (Maxxis High Roller II 27.5 x3.0") has a great grip, but also a huge rolling resistance (as expected) and I would like to try some local XC MTB-tracks (+/- 10km each mostly single tracks) and that’s going to be really painful with the downhill tire, I’m sure
But still making solid progression:
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You have good reasons for choosing that crank length. You know the conditions you want to ride in. Nevertheless, I have to point out that it seems more normal that someone would start out with crank length of ~ 150mm, then maybe move down to 137mm later on. You’re doing fine in the video, but you’re struggling to ride up a not-very-steep hill, using a weight-shifting method of climbing, with the 137mm cranks. You mentioned you’re a bigger rider ( ~ 200 lbs, right? ). A lot of riders who use shorter cranks are smaller, lighter people. Not a lot of hills in the Netherlands, right? So maybe you’re okay.
Well, I did think about that as well (the gain tables helps a lot with the comparison) and although 150mm or even higher (155/160mm) would provide more torque, it would also mean the actual movement and therefore weight shifting is bigger, making it harder to balance.
This hill that I rode in the video is about 30-35 degrees and I know I have sufficient power to climb it, but I couldn’t lean enough forward while staying seated (I think I have that fixed now, but I will have to give it another try), therefore I had to stand up to climb.
I did some more climbing today and noticed the same thing. Especially when there’s a root or something in the way, it’s still very hard to conquer it. But I figured that I can pull and push on my handle and therefore making it easier to tilt forward or back on the uni, and I’m sure this will help with climbing too.
But looking at what I want to ride down, longer cranks would make it either slow down drastically, or make my legs spin as if I’m starting to take off
Here’s an example of my local tracks:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CJYz0Nzhhpa/
No, it’s a very flat country 
- Most climbs are short and steep (maybe 20m and up to 45-50 degrees / , varying from hard packed, leaves, gravel, loose sand and roots. We don’t have any rocks in nature, only on man-made bike parks.
Hmm, I’m curious about your choice of background music (“money, money, money”). In the U.S., we pronounce Mountain Unicycling m yoo nee.
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20 meters of 100%+ grade? I knew you Hollanders were off your rocker. Who thought of making not just one, but many hills like that???
I actually meant to say “most challenging climbs” instead of “most climbs”, since there are of course many many shorter and less steeper climbs as well.
If I look at my local XC tracks, there are 3 of them. One is relatively flat, easy for beginners.
The other has a lot of thight turns, steep climbs and descents (not 20m, mostly around 5-10m high with a few exceptions) and allmost all really steep ones are setup in such an alligment that if you carry the speed from the descent you almost completely roll up the climb already.
And then there’s a third one which is a mix of the others. Although I don’t agree with the marking, the first is a blue route, the mix is a red route and the other is black. And for XC it might be black (difficult), but if you compare it to international black lines, then it’s no where near as challenging since it’s lacking rock gardens, drops and jumps…
But some hills around the tracks are around 20m high and there are hiking tracks on there (The one in the video is one of them) and those are most challenging to descent and climb of course
For me it works better to use short bursts of power for steep descents than to climb longer (a few km’s) mellow descents.
Haha, yes I know. but it still looks somewhat like it
Now for the tire and the t-bar and it’s how I have it in mind 
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I’m a bit confused, that (except for the little side place, possibly) didn’t look like 30-35% grade in the video… looked to be closer to 15-20 in my completely unqualified opinion. Maybe I’m not thinking straight, though, but climbing anything of any real distance that’s 100%+ sounds absolutely insane.
This is a 23% slope I climbed yesterday on my 26er (I got to about the mark in the picture, roughly 75 meters; it was my 6th try, I had fallen off on a driveway - sideways slope, you know, the works - the previous tries, so I was exhausted and couldn’t keep going).
We don’t talk in grades, but in angles. I’m not really sure how to convert them, but here’s a side view of the driveway:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CI8vrFsBb0C/
This is the steepest part of it. the most part is a little less steep. but since I’m using a gopro I know that it’s very hard to actually see the depth and therefore steepness of things. In mountainbiking they even have a name for it, the gopro-effect
Except the horizontal part isnt horizontal (look at the neighbours brown “fence” (not sure what the word is), so it’s a little more, but still it was an estimate - will take out my digital angle meter soon and see what it actually is, although it wont be 45 degrees looking at your photo
EDIT: the steepest part of the slope is between 24/25 degrees, measured over a length of 2,5m using a straight beam.
The lesser part is between 12/15 degrees, depending on the line.
I guess I completely misjudged that 
But the neighbors fence is off too. Should I tell them?
For now here’s the new setup:
Still figuring out which length and angle of the bar ends I prefer, but it’s a completely different experience for sure
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I’d keep the front handle on it too
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I’d consider cutting the T-bar a bit shorter to make mounting the t-bar a bit closer to the seat possible. I have mine set up as close to the seat as I can. Not saying that that’s the best setup for everyone, but you probably won’t set it much further out than your current setup.
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