Alright, I’m interested in the sport seeing as how my neck will no longer tolerate me riding a mountain bike. So here’s where I genuflect in front of the gods of the one wheeled monster and beg for knowledge.
I still want to trail ride if I can, so that puts me on a Muni instead of a plain Uni. I don’t plan on any trials type stuff, but if I get the hang of riding it and my neck is doing ok I will be trying to hammer out a whole bunch of trail miles. I used to shoot for 100 a week on my Specialized Enduro. So I’m thinking that I’ll need something that is going to be able to take miles of use and not fall apart in the first week.
Caveat: I’m a heavy guy again. Since my neck went south I’ve put on about 30 lbs and that puts me at around 240 deep. So I believe that little tidbit of info would be the most important part of a purchase decision. Something lightweight and XC’ish would be something to shy away from.
So I ask you folk for your opinions since I am clueless in the world of one wheel. What do you recommend for an overweight clydesdale with delusions of grandueur? I’ve already got most of the body armor. I just need a wheel to put it on.
I have an enduro too! What year is yours? mines '04 comp
KH Freeride would serve you well: It’s a 24" wheel, which is big enough for muni, and small enough to maneuver tight, technical sections on the trail. A 26" might serve you better though, depending on your height (I’m 6’, 145, and I ride a KH Freeride (24"))
26 will cover more ground a bit easier (not much), but won’t be quite as maneuverable on really tight sections.
If you go 26, you could get a Yuni 26" Muni w/ Profiles (these splined cranks are quite strong). The KH freeride has KH/Onza splined cranks, and is also very strong.
The final option is go w/ a heavier 24", which might be a bit stronger in the frame dept. than the KH. (The KH has an aluminum frame so it’s light but I’m not sure if it’s as strong)
These Unis I have mentioned are all $500+, so if that’s your price range, great! If you want something even more expensive, a Hunter frame is really good, and comes in 24 and 26" sizes. You could get a Hunter Muni w/ Profiles for $900+.
What you probably want is the fattest tire possible, to smooth out the ride and reduce neck impact. Make sure whatever you get has a 3" tire. At some point there will be a 3.7" tire on the market, but I don’t think anybody knows when that will happen.
There is a thread on here about the 3.7" Large Marge that you can check out. Here’s my pictures of a George Barnes prototype from Moab this year: http://unicycling.smugmug.com/gallery/489732/1/20060442
That thing is an ultra-cush mobile. Not only does that tire have a nice, floaty ride, it’s the only unicycle I’ve ever managed to ride through fine, loose sand. Then I rode it as fast as I could down a trail of large gravel (up to 3" rocks). It was like riding down a slightly rough sidewalk!
But a cycle built with one of those cycles is going to end up being a little heavier than a KH or similar, even if the tire weighs the same. There will have to be more rim, and at least a tad more frame.
I think you’ll be fine with the KH to start. Your two most important ingredients are the fat tire, as mentioned above, and a splined crankset. As long as you pair up the two of those, you should be fine.
What kinds of trail riding are you wanting to do? There’s no need to get a Mack Truck unless you’re doing huge drops, and since you won’t be doing those right away, and those miles you will do will melt away some pounds… If you plan on “hammering out miles” and don’t plan on doing trials you will want a 26 or a 29 (or even a 36).
I was injured a couple of times (well, a few) over the past couple of years and ended up at about 224, now down about 10 or so. I wouldn’t hestitate to ride any of my LiveWire wheels, including square-tapered light 29ers, in any conditions. So far this summer, I’ve put over 800 miles on a 29er on really rough roads, hills, and mild off-road, rain and shine. This 29er currently has a 2.0 tire on it.
It’s not heavy you need, but strong. And I don’t agree that you should automatically think of the fattest tire that isn’t even available yet. A simple Big Apple 29er would be fine for the road in the beginning, and there are other tires for off-road that should suit you fine.
Listen to the Gods, then I’ll explain just exactly why you do or don’t need certain items. You’re welcome to borrow one of mine
(24x3 Muni) 29’r or Coker (36) until you decide what you really want to buy.
A good all around size is the 24"
Lots of guys have 'em in Texas - I haven’t seen a 29"
If you have some medical problems that stop you from mountain biking, I would recommend that you stay away from the “extreme” and ride a 29". With a 29" the focus is on rolling smooth trails (cross-country) rather than riding down the side of a mountain or other dangerous and extreme terrains.
I would really love to try a KH 29", but like I said, I’ve never seen a 29" and I keep telling myself it is better to spin the 24" (to get a better workout, and not have to worry about durability as much).
Drew doesnt know what he is talking about get a 29 and ride extreme stuff its fun, although I dont own a 29 if I were getting in from mountain biking it would be the way I’d go. There isnt much speed in riding a 24 over most single track the 29er will make you feel more at home.
ColDawg: I started with a 2002 Enduro (Blue), then I got a new 2002 Pro frame(Silver), then I got an S-Works frame (and it was a beautious flo-red), and now I have the 2004 Enduro Pro frame with a Marz. FRSL. Yes, I was riding hard.
Kenny: You misunderstand. You ARE one of the gods.
U-Turn: On my mtn. bike I road all types of trail Smooth double track, rough rocky creekbeds, twisty crawly up and downhills. I loved the technical stuff and hope to revisit most of it on one wheel. I also used to slap slicks on the Enduro and chase roadies. Got a small rep. from that too.
Everyone else, I’m checking out all the info your passing my way. Kenny will get a quiz when I attempt to steal his uni from him.
Well I ordered a Torker DX and after 3 days of hearing nothing I find out they don’t have any and wont until (maybe) August. I’m getting a little impatient about climbing onto a uni so I cancelled that one and moved up a notch on the moneyclip to one of these Onza 24-inch MUni’s as my “Drivers Ed.” bike. Took up some of Mr. Wallis’s time before I did. Thank’s again kind sir. Hopefully by next weekend I’ll be growing fresh bacon on my shins.
Now in the mountain bike community that I’m from, if you get a new frame or fork or something along that line you should “grace it” with a pant’s dunking and a pic to boast with. Do the unicyclist enjoy anything similar here or is this a much more reserved group?
[QUOTE Now in the mountain bike community that I’m from, if you get a new frame or fork or something along that line you should “grace it” with a pant’s dunking and a pic to boast with. Do the unicyclist enjoy anything similar here or is this a much more reserved group? ;)[/QUOTE]
I haven’t heard of any such rituals on this forum. I don’t think you can get the whole MUni down your pants (maybe just the the frame?)
I’m willing to give ya’ some pointers this weekend if you’re ready. You can always borrow one of my MUni’s if yours arrives late.
BTW, excellent choice with the Onza (especially since they’re $100 cheaper right now).
You need to remember to keep your weight on your seat. When learning to ride most people have a tendency to put all their weight on the pedals, resulting in a large work out for the 'ol legs. Constantly remind yourself to sit down on the seat and you will be able to put more weight on the seat, saving your legs and allowing you to practice for longer
Check your seat height too. Use the same standard you do for setting the seat height on a mountain bike.