I did earlier, and UDC as well.
you find out what they were going to do?
Not yet. Should hear something by later today or tomorrow I would imagine. Anyone else’s touring bar break at the bracket?
along the same lines i broke the stem on my DH b*ke a few days ago.
I was thinking that I could just reposition the touring handle to a stem attached to my seatpost. But then I started thinking it could be a LOT worse if the seatpost broke in half, while riding! I hate to imagine the consequences of being “skewered” in that way, if you know what I mean! 
yes i do. i am lucky i leaning back. or i would be in ALOT of pain
This is the alternate setup for now:
Will you be adding any additional protective gear since your near-miss?
I’ve got a similar seatpost mounting but with nimbus shadow bars. No problems with breaking seatposts.
Maybe yours broke because of all the leverage from having aerobars on it making it twice as long?
At least you weren’t hurt:D
Knock wood! I don’t think the aerobars were the cause, since I hardly have any weight on them as it is; almost all is on my saddle. But I guess it’s possible. I remember before I added the aerobars, I was probably pushing down on the kh handle at least as much, which wasn’t a lot then either.
It’s the bike lanes that are dangerous…
hahahah funny vid!!
but it’s true, i never ride bike lanes. we have many “bike lanes” here…but they’re just a shoulder. too close to idiots driving for me.
Haha, that was hilarious! But nearly 3 MILLION views in less than a month, for a video with the bland title, “Bike Lanes”? How the F##C is this possible? Are millions of people, all of a sudden, searching for videos with about bike lanes? Unbelievable. 
I just thought of this idea, and it looks like it could work, making it the best of both worlds! The bracket in the pic is not attached, since it’s broken, but you can see it matches up well with the seat tube mount angle. Only thing is I’m not sure if both attachments would work ideally together, and they might not share equal stress. It could be looked at as a safeguard in that is the bracket were to break, the seatpost mount would still keep the touring handle and aerobars from collapsing and separating from the uni.
A bit, but I could only think of how the “victim” in the vid never told us what he actually was doing. I consider him guilty by means of totally omitting that information. Yes, you are a legal vehicle, which entitles you to use a whole lane if and when necessary. Otherwise you’re supposed to stay as far to the right as is “practicable”. Sounds open to discussion, but leaves leeway for lots of common-sense riding. I’m sure the cop had a reasonable reason for ticketing him; too bad we don’t know what it was.
Then the guy proceeds to show us how bike lanes have “stuff” in them. He should have done a comparison with how many of Manhattan’s car lanes also have “stuff” in them. Don’t be such a wimp. You can’t be a wimp and a cyclist in Manhattan at the same time.
It’s called viral. How did you come to watch it? Oh yeah… 
Sorry about your broken handle, and glad it didn’t lead to injury or a flattened head. Be happy this didn’t happen on your actual century run! 
Back when I broke my (1st generation) Nimbus Shadow handle, it was from pulling up on it. Until that happened, I didn’t think I was applying any upward pressure on it at all, but I apparently do rather sharply, when braking, mounting and riding slow in high gear. I also know I press down on my handlebar a good deal. For me, that’s why it’s there in the first place. So you might actually be putting more pressure on it than you think. Not that it should break in any case. Mine also creaked before it let go, and I also couldn’t figure out where the sound was coming from until just before it let go.
I wouldn’t have had any clue about that video if it hadn’t been linked here. 
And I thought the same thing about the bracket snapping during a century! it would have made my 3 broken spokes on my last century seem like a minor inconvenience!
And I also agree that the bracket should be strong enough to take some continuous weight bearing; if not, it’s just an accident waiting to happen! In the interim, I attached my handle setup to my seatpost, via a stoker stem. Although the non-adjustable stem angle makes it lower and not as far out in front, it seems like a pretty solid set up.
Sucks, man!
I broke my T-Bar last summer. I was also using aero-bars at the time, about 1900km into a 2200km tour. Mine broke at the weld holding the half-circle piece to the short tube the handle slides into. Broke just above that weld. No creaking, but it twisted a couple times as if the short tube’s clamp were loose a couple times before giving out.
If the point where you were applying pressure to the bars was twice as far out as the standard T-Bar, then that joint still sees twice the torque, even if you push with the same force. If you weren’t putting lots of weight into it though, it still surprises me that it broke on you. I was putting probably close to half my weight on mine.
I need to find a stem like you’ve got. I got my bar re-welded, but I find the T-Bar way too flexy with aerobars to begin with. What we really need is a V-Frame…
Like the others have mentioned I think that the Aerobars would have added a lot of leverage and even light weight leaning would make a lot of force on the bar. I think the main cause for the failure of that T-bar could have been the way your Stiffener plate seems to be mounted underneath the plastic grab handle. It does fit there but I assume it allows more flex by having the plastic sandwiched between the plate and the handle instead of having the handle pressed firmly against the plate. The photo I stole from Unicycle.co.nz shows the way I think it is intended to be oriented.
Even with a Shadow handle in my KH Touring handle base, I would expect it to void any KH warranty if it breaks since the Shadow is longer than the original spec.
I agree that a V-frame would seem more suited to such a lengthy appendage.
yep- Thats the reason I don’t run the KH handle on my Gmuni. I don’t know why kris feels as though two little welds are suitably strong enough for handles that people might actually utilise. Its baffling. I pull and twist and put all sorts of forces through my custom handle to attain better leverage and torque on my muni. Transferring those forces to the seat post though a stoker stem or to the brake tube on a rail adapter is a much better option in my opinion. That way you don’t need to worry about the stiffness of the seat too much either. A seat post is always going to be stronger than a seat base- and if you are not convinced- get a thomson. Problem solved.
If I were you Terry, I’d stick with the replacement set up you have now. Its going to be stiffer and stronger than the design of the current KH handle.
Mark
Went to Twins Bike shop–these guys are miracle workers–and I told them what I had in mind to make my own setup, and they found all the parts, put it all together and now the setup is ideal! I’m telling you, if you need ANYTHING they can do it, and they’re super nice people who love their work, and it shows!
I needed to raise the handle/aerobars higher, since the stoker stem is at a fixed angle, and thus lower than the bracket setup, whoich was adjustable up & down. So we took an aluminum seatpost–just the right length–which has a tapered down end that fit perfectly into the stoker stem.
Then to raise the bars higher we used an adjustable stem riser, then for the “T” we cut down a tapered aluminum bmx handlebar. The aero bars went on that, and then the bar ends flipped back as before for mounting. All I need to do now is paint the boom flat black. I could achieve the same higher position by using a stoker stem with a greater angle, but this way I have more adjustability. I took it for a test ride and wow! Even more comfortable than before and feels solid as a rock! 
Btw, the Twins called me last night to tell me that a Japanese guy was there who is a classic bike collector, and that he wanted to buy my 1966 & 1967 classic Stingrays. The Twins had been kind enough to display them in their store so that I might find a buyer. He offered $1,000 for both, and I said I couldn’t take less than $1,300. He agreed and paid cash! Thanks again to the TWINS!
