Getting cut isn’t something to worry about from what I’ve heard.
But I still do, along w/ damaging the disk in UPD’s which is why I’ll get a new uni w/ an inbound disk if I ever upgrade to disk. Now, I’m most considering an Oracle w/ KH rim.
calculated it today, the nimbus 29" steel muni frame is .33 lbs heavier than the 29" oracle. Pretty negligible. They do claim exactly 810g for the 29 frame as well as the 26 frame though, so I’m not sure how accurate that is. They are different frame designs. The 24 frame is listed as lighter than the 26. In any case, you just have to decide if an extra $100 is worth 1/3 less lbs. : P
For perspective, I carry about 40-50 oz of water on my rides, and 1/3 lb is about 5 oz of water, and the frame isn’t rolling weight, remember.
If your wheel is that out of true, you should probably get it fixed. Heck, I’d almost consider that a good thing if it indicates you’ve damaged your wheel before breaking it.
As for rubbing on steeps or under pressure, there have been a couple of debates about whether that’s the frame, wheel, or both. Either way, the effect is lessened on a smaller wheel. I haven’t heard of anybody having any issues unless it was on a 36er. Specifically the nightrider pro frame, which I have, and can attest that it’s very flexy. . . as frames go. : )
Not?
Whole Story
I’ve cut my leg once, but my Shimano SLX Rotor is not very sharp, so it was not deep. No scar remains.
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Yes, the Nightriders are more flexy than most frames. It can happen with smaller wheels/frames as well, but definitely is easier to acheive on 36" wheels. I think for rim brake issues, if you get rub from hard pedaling, it’s more likely happening in the frame than in the wheel. Even loose bearings can do it.
At the end of the day, the munis you listed are not cheap vs expensive, they’re more mid-range vs high-end.
None are entry level cheap components. So pick one, they’re all good.
OUCH!
That sucks. Were you wearing leg guards? (I can’t read your link since it’s in Italian and the translate button didn’t work)
I also can’t really read it. But the pictures say everything;). Don’t know if he wore leg guards.
I wore shin guards that are open at the back as is cut my calf, luckily it cut only the dermal layers and not the flesh. But I was not going fast at this moment. It was on a downhill, I wanted to get off but ended coasting a few meters and then fell of to the back with my leg between rotor and wheel.
I guess, as long as you do not mount very sharp saw-blade-like rotors outbord everything is fine and there is no risk to hurt yourself as much as in the photo.
Yeah, that disk looks crazy!
Oracle Frame Capacity
I have a 26" oracle frame, and I was wondering:
- How wide of a 26" rim can I cram in there?
- How wide of a 26" tire?
(I have only tried the stock sizes so far.)
Thanks!
I know its an old post, but I have been wanting a 26". The thing it the steel hub and frame “better/worse” than the aluminium Oracle version?
You might consider a 27.5" muni as 26" is really disappearing from the mountain bike market and therefore your choice in tires is getting slimmer everyday.
I have a 29", so I’m less interested in a 27,5". And 24" seems too small for what I need.
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How much are you willing to pay for some (0.6 kg) weight reduction? The new Oracle frames with the welded on disk tabs are pretty good (despite their very basic appearance), but the steel frames are still a solid choice, aside from weight there isn’t anything wrong with them. I’d almost like to argue that the 70€ extra on the frame may be better invested into either a nicer tire, a decent brake, or a second pair of cranks.
A 27.5" is much smaller than a 29" and much less bigger than a 26", opposed to what the name might suggest. A 29" rim is 38mm larger than a 27.5", while a 27.5" rim is only 25mm more than a 26" (Just something to consider, my next uni will be 27.5" rather than 26" for the reasons pierrox stated.)
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Honestly, 27.5" seems to be evaporating, too. It’s all 29" now. When I was shopping for a new MTB it was hard to find anything in 27.5, except for extra-small versions of 29 bikes, and some downhill oriented plus-sized rides.
But even if new 26" bikes are pretty much extinct, there are still millions of them already out there, so I expect there will be decent tires available forever. Cambria bike’s web site shows 71 different 26" tires, and a bunch of them would be fine muni tires. Maxxis, Continental, Michelin, Schwalbe and more.
And I really like my 26" for technical offroad. I use my 27.5" with a 3" tire for more cross-country type rides, but for rides where I am stopping and starting and hopping and dropping the 26" is great. If tires start disappearing I’ll just buy a couple of spares and store them in a bag in the basement.
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That is exactly it. Though not just frame, but also a break.
Im thinking about the durability. The steel frame is thinner than the alu.
I’m not concerned about tyres.
Note to myself: Never use a brake disc that looks like a circular saw blade…
Huh??
Injurie?
Not for the faint hearted… look here:
(“graphic content - be warned” as they say on some platform)
Nasty! Why would they make something like that…
I hope nobody tried that with the nimbus disc brake.
Yep it doesn’t make sense at all, even on a mountain-b*ke as the rotor could slice you in a nasty fall. I guess they thought it would help with cooling the disc?
I had recently bought a second hand 36" Qu-Ax with the same rotor when I saw that photo… I ordered a new one right away! Ok, also because a 160mm rotor was way too small and lacking power for such a big wheel. 