I’m pretty sure these are what I want. I don’t know if the width is right, are these types of bearings always the same width or what. How come whenever there is talk about bearings, the specs consist of OD and ID and not the bearing width?
This link is for a set of 6, tho you can buy 2 or 100, if you’d like. And for under 2 dollars a bearing and about 4 for shipping, I can stock up and never have bearing troubles again.
I would think so…but check with someone who really knows…and what happened to your bearings?
why not just buy the kh replacment bearings, those thing on ebay there look like sun generic bearings.
my apologies… thought it said KH not K1 
I have 2 sets of bearings. The originals that came with my k1 hub, and some of the blue ones from UDC (same as the bearings that come on a KH). I can use either set but both have issues. Very gritty and sloppy when spinning, if you spin the wheel you can feel the vibration throughout the whole uni. The K1 set clicks quite loud also. At this rate I feel like I should just stock up on the lighter cheaper k1 style that I linked to.
I messed up the blue ones buy using an inappropriate method to take off my street cranks. Which was using a bearing extractor to pull the bearing and the crank off together… works in a pinch, but if your hub is dry and sticky it is not a good idea.
The width is wrong, should be 12mm, those are 9mm.
too narrow, these are 9mm, UDC Uk lists all Kh bearings as 12mm wide.
edit: zfreak beat me to it
He didn’t post so he could have you tell him you have no clue. Stop posting crap like this because like in that other thread about crank pullers you gave out the wrong information. If you don’t know then don’t say anything at all. You tell him to ask someone who really knows and thats exactly what hes doing by posting here.
Thanks guys… seemed a bit to good to be true.
someone’s in a bad mood 
lol
just playing, i get where your coming from. hes just trying to help though.
He pretty much never says anything helpful and alsmot always has something to say. Its not about trying to help or not. Its about not posting when all the post will contain is useless thoughts.
He obviously belongs in a chat room and not on a message board if he feels the urge to type his half wit thoughts on every single topic.
I was gonna let this one go, but since I got my answer and it already went there… Well there it is.
i see. well i pretty much did the same thing he did so sorry 
let me say something helpful, put him on your block list, never have to put up with his crap again
I don’t like the idea of having to do that. I would hope a reminder now and again would help him to get the idea and maybe… grow a little?
Besides I am much to curious of a person for the ignore list. Even tho I know whatever was said is pure garbage and not worth reading, just seeing the box that says this user is on your ignore list and …(or whatever it says) makes me wonder what is hidden away there.
Its like when you want to play with a toy just cause someone else is playing with it and for some reason you think it will be fun, even tho you know that you don’t enjoy the toy to begin with.
Apology accepted. Now just keep that in mind before posting in threads with legitimate questions and you will be much loved.
Like AgentQ said though, its not just about trying to help. This is the second time within the past few days that hes posted on something he had no clue about and posted the wrong information. The incorrect advice could become very costly. What if AgentQ took unidudes advice (haha, yeah…) and went ahead and got it only to find out they weren’t compatible. Or worse yet, what if the person he gave the incorrect crank puller advice to went ahead and did it and totally destroyed their cranks? Almost $100 down the drain!
AgentQ is just as capable at making a totally uneducated random guess as unidudedx but obviously he wants to know the correct answer and thats why he has come here.
Finding bearings
Unicycles are kinda screwy. Every motorcycle bearing can be found in any bearing supply. But some unis (mostly Torker) use a srewy unique size, then it must be bought from them for 15 $ each.
The new ISIS size is also screwy. They decided they wanted a thicker axle, 22 mm instead of the old 20 mm, such as used on the 05 KH Onza, maybe K1 also. But they ( ISIS uni maker group ), didn’t want to retool all their frames to accept the next standard bearing size, 22 mm ID x 44 mm OD. So they (Q-ax) made up a custom order of a ton of 22 x 42 x 12. These, like the screwy Torkers, are available only from a uni supply, but at least they are priced at a not so bad 8 $ each.
Pretty much all other uni bearings are standard size, and can be found at bearing houses for little $.
Use this link
http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?
In their search window on the left, type in 20x42x12. This will show you how you can buy a bearing for an 05 KH Onza hub 20 mm ID x 42 mm OD x 12 mm wide, for only 2 $ each ! These are as good or better then the 15 $ Torker bearings , only they are a standard size, so there is competition in the market for this part.
For a K1, you need to know the correct numbers for the inside shaft x outside shell x width, and you are good to go.
Thanks for the effort tho the link was no help. I was only concerned with the width of the bearings we use. I was informed they are 12mm.
I can only find 25x42 with a width of 9mm. Looks like 20 dollars a pair is the only way to go for the bearings I need.
You must have the ISIS K1 setup I think
A new screwy size to add to my oddball uni bearing list.
I suspect Koxx One may have a 22 mm axle (ISIS standard ) and then made their own screwy 25 x 42 bearing to go with it. I hate these nutty size changes, they are just messing with us. 
Check to see if there is an inside sleeve, to boost the 22 mm axle to fit a 25 mm ID bearing. This is profit making bodge on K1’s part IMHO. A 22 x 42 bearing is actually stronger. For that matter, a 22x 44 is an standard industry size for good engineering reasons. Better strength with a proper ball size to shell size ratio.
I bet you could take the ID spacer off, and use a 22x 42 bearing if you wanted to. You would only save 4 $, but the result would be a slightly stronger bearing and hell, 4 $ is all a set of bearings should cost !