Best 36er handle?

Unicycles and Equipment
1

I really would like a handle set for my 36er, but I’m not sure which to get. I like the simple look of this one http://www.unicycle.com/unicycle-hardware/saddles-and-accessories/saddle-accessories/kris-holm-t-bar-touring-handle.html/ and the fact that it doesn’t have and piece sticking off the backside of the saddle.

So is that a good choice? I don’t do a huge amount of riding on the 36, but the occasional 10 mile ride or so is a lot of fun. Feel free to suggest other handles that you like best, but please include links so I can see what you’re talking about.

Thanks a lot,
Max

2

There are a few handlebar threads out there already, but I’ll go over a few.

I have owned the coker pi bar, the shadow handle, and the T7. I’ve also ridden without a handle for a while to see if I liked it.

The T7 will break on you, it’s just a matter of time, it’s sloppy, it’s heavy, it’s one of the oldest and worst built ones, having said that, I enjoyed it while I had it.

The shadow handle doesn’t have to have the other part sticking off the back, and is very adjustable. I really like this handle other than the fact that it’s ANNOYING to change anything because you have to take the seat completely off. Some people have reported them breaking which I’m not surprised about as it is the follow up to the T7 O:-) no problems with mine, but I’ve never dropped it. Another disadvantage to this and the T7 is that if they break, you’re stranded because the seat attaches directly to the handlebar, not the frame

The coker pi bar I felt was the best all around bar, especially for shorter distances. The only reason I switched from this was that I wanted something longer for longer distance riding. It was a mistake to let it go. It’s lighter than you would think. It’s tough as nails, and it is the cheapest of them all. It’s also very adjustable, and easier to remove than any of the others.

I have ridden with the KH, it’s light, can’t tell you how strong it is, any people that have had issues on here have usually gotten them resolved by Kris himself : ) which is awesome btw!! It’s the creme of the crop so to speak. You won’t be disappointed in it, I promise you that. Get the plate with it to increase the rigidity of it. anything you can do to connect your handle more rigidly will make it more enjoyable.

I would buy the coker bar again in a minute if it was for a muni (simply because it’s steel), but if you have the money, get the KH and be happy : ) it’s probably the best.

For 10 mile rides I would have SOME handlebar, for 3 or less, I’d say let it go.

also be sure to get a highly adjustable seatpost for your saddle (the KH one is best, but there is an adapter for using a bicycle seat post if you want) The more adjusting you can do, the more comfortable it will be. Play around with it for a while and you’ll find your ideal setup. : )

3

http://www.unicycle.com/unicycle-hardware/kris-holm-saddle-reinforcement-plate.html/
Here is the reinforcement plate for the KH bar.

They don’t sell the T7 anymore apparently, so you don’t have to worry about that.

The coker bar is on the coker unicycle page, and the shadow is on unicycle.com

4

I like the T-bar and the Shadow handle. I have a Shadow on my Schlumpf 36", and I like the low-down position it allows. I worry what would happen to it in a crash, as the tubing is lightweight aluminum. But that’s also kind of the upside. The way it’s built, if the main handlebar gets damaged or broke, it’s relatively cheap to replace without having to change out the whole thing.

Also, yes mine broke also. Apparently the early production run of the under-seat “receiver” part had a defect in it. But they shipped me a new one as soon as I notified them of the break, and the replacement one is just fine. Great warranty service.

Also, you don’t have to take the seat off to adjust everything, just one thing. And that’s the seat angle. Do your best to get it right the first time! I’ve changed my seat angle once.

I also liked the Coker Pi Bar, but didn’t spend much time with it. It’s very adjustable also.

Below are pictures of my Schlumpf 36 with Shadow Handle, and a great shot Nathan Hoover took of me riding my borrowed 29" Schlumpf (with T-Bar) in the Unicon Marathon in New Zealand.

20110530_11-12-03_foss.jpg
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20100107_10-20-43_nathan.jpg
20100107_10-20-43_nathan.jpg800×600 207 KB

5

Unfortunately mine has had an issue of loosening up every 100-150 miles or so : ( (probably need to locktite it)

I also like to take the handle off if I’m only riding a short distance. I’m probably a minority here.

6

You can take the handle off without taking the seat off. But I’ve also had the issue of the seat getting loose; it’s a pretty inconvenient setup for a bolt you plausibly might want to tighten or adjust.

7

Home built

I just built my own using the design found on the “Post your 36er here” thread Post Your 36er Here

The first photo is on page 10 of the thread, then a detailed set of photos and description on page 11. He cut his down short, but I left mine long and so far I really like it. I bought the KH rail adapter and seat post from UDC and a cheap clamp, and it works great. The only thing I can’t figure out is how the original design allowed room for the plastic grip on the saddle. On mine the post on the rail adapter is too close to the saddle to allow room for the grip so I just removed it.

I will try to post some photos later on that same thread. At 6’3" I wanted a handle that stuck out further and using the full length of the frame did the trick. The other difference is that the frame I used had the lollipop hub design so I didn’t need to cut of the bearing caps.

8

Seriously considered ordering the KH T-bar Touring handle on my upcoming KH36G but I don’t think (correct me if I’m wrong) it’s compatible with the new KH Fusion Slim saddle. I settled for the Shadow. It’s the only handle I have ever known. You will have to use some threadlocker on the high tensile bolt of the pivoting seat or it will rattle it’s way lose. A few drops of the blue stuff seems to have fixed mine for life. My Shadow is one of the 1st generation that broke. But, once I got it welded (not pretty but works), it is holding strong and has survived some fairly horrific high speed UPD’s. IMHO, the only downside of the Shadow is that, if it breaks very far away from the Jeep, I am in for a long walk (been there, done that). Much more on the Shadow via the link below.

9

Why ? I think it is compatible (same base, same handle)

10

Oops, sorry about those big copyright notices on “my” pictures above; especially the one of me, which was taken by Nathan Hoover. I used the wrong preset to generate those… :stuck_out_tongue:

11

I’m glad I didn’t have to say anything :slight_smile:

12

I’m still in debate mode over which to get, but I do have another questions.

Are all of the handles you all have listed compatible with the old style KH saddles, i.e. the bolts come down out of the saddle and you put a nut onto them? I have a carbon fiber seat that I was never a fan of on my street uni. I was thinking of converting that to an air saddle for my 36er, but only if it’s going to work with a handle.

13

Kris Holm website (see link to T-bar below) says “compatible only with 2009 and 2010 generation Kris Holm Fusion saddles and Nimbus Gel saddle” so I guess you are right seeing as how it’s a Fusion Slim. I was misinterpreting Fusion to read as Freeride only. The Saddle Reinforcement plate (2nd link) and T-bar should fit the Fusion Slim saddle. So who is going to talk me out of the Shadow and into a Thompson post ($ is no object) with KH-Tbar? Do it quick! Time is drawing near.

http://www.krisholm.com/khu/t-bar

http://www.krisholm.com/khu/plate

14

why do you need a thompson seat post? If money was no object get a moots seat post : D