and you can’t buy an RGB frame by itself.
the #rgb components are available spare. this was just in the beginning.
On the 36" it’s a set of clamp and frame.
As Roger said, all three are great unis with pros and cons depending on personal preference and taste. And I admit I might be a bit opininated.
Sweet!
I may well pick up an RGB 36er frame to go along with a couple of sprag clutch freewheels when they come out.
Somehow I didn’t get notifications from this thread, I wonder if it’s because of the new forum. Anyway, thanks for all the replies, whether biased or not they are insightful.
Generally I am a fan of the KH design concept—specifically the symmetrical wheel design—, however craftmanship is not very good, based on the two KH27.5s I have personally examined and the one I ride. For me the quality shows in the details. Problems I encountered with KH unis included:
The outer rotor set-up has never been a problem for me. This set-up requires zero dishing but puts stress through the axle which theoretically will flex. A rotor attached directly to the hub probably feels a bit sharper, but I could be wrong as I’ve never tried one.
When I saw a QU-AX uni for the first time at a local store I hadn’t even heard of the brand and I was like “what the hell brand is that??”. The initial excitement may have distracted me from looking at the details but it definitely seemed to be a very well made product with great attention to detail. That was before I had my KH27.5. I need to check one out again now that I have more experience.
I’m a little surprised by your comments on quality control. Maybe I’m just lucky but I’ve not experienced quality issues with the KH unicycles that I’ve owned or have passed by me (2x KH36, KH29, 2x KH26, KH24, 2x KH20).
I’ve not purchased one for a few years though so maybe the QC and general quality has got worse?
The pedal-crank interface I had noticed as being very slightly non-parallel on Spirit cranks though with slightly more wear on the outer side. I think they’re all like this - a slight slip up with the curved profile design I presume. It’s never caused me an issue however and it seemed to be a fraction of a mm rather than enough to cause concern.
The inserts you talk about were to stop people stripping the aluminium threads on older cranks as they were made with a softer aluminium. The Spirits (and most other cranks) do not need these steel inserts.
On the frame flex, I noticed a small amount of flex-induced HS33 rubbing on my KH29 back in the day but I’ve not felt any flex and have been using disk brakes for so long that it’s not been an issue. I almost exclusively ride a KH36 with bars which is the unicycle I’d expect to feel the flex on.
Modern ISIS hubs are very stiff and I suspect you’d have to have an exceptionally tightly laced wheelset to be anywhere close to being able to notice what little twist it might have over ~25mm. Schlumpf hubs are another story though - braking through the gearing was the main thing that stopped me buying a new one (after previously owning a square taper road version).
I don’t know whether I’d buy a KH unicycle now, but I’d admittedly also not buy any pre-built unicycle. KH used to be the best of the best with a price to match but everyone else has definitely caught up.
No worries 
Are Roger and Martin Schlumpf employees? That looks very cool. It’d be nice of Schlumpf decided to make an inboard version of the hub—fewer parts = less to go wrong
That’s why Roger and Martin are developing a brake adapter. Which you can see here:
Sorry about the thread hi-jacking…
Sure, KH2005 was a revolution but now all manufactures propose nice and good unis
A bit of topic but, reading this I wanted to ask Roger about the triple hole cranlk. The 100/125/150 awesome. But for a 36", 100mm is too short me and co. Would a 113/127/150-ish crank be possible to have made?
This thread makes me pause a bit to spend the extra for a KH. I would expect nothing but the best for a KH cycle.
127mm-113mm=14mm
A 9/16" hole for the pedal thread is ~14.28mm diameter. So no, impossible to make those, 110/127/150 maybe. Or any other combination with at least 17 mm inbetween the holes. (17mm difference is on the very low side, only KH spirits come like that, most other multi hole cranks have the holes at least 19mm apart. )
A a 127/150mm KH Spirit crank can be drilled and tapped for a third hole at 109mm. That is my go to hole for my 36er road riding with hills up to 12% grade. Details here.
I’ve never ridden a 36er but my experience with other wheel sizes was that, as my skill improved, I started to prefer shorter cranks, especially on predictable terrain i.e. roads.
About drilling and tapping your own threads, it’s probably a long shot for most of us who have the will but not the tools and space required to execute the job.
Read my earlier post though, KH products are OK but build quality is definitely sloppy for the price.
I agree with you! I ride my 36er (RGB frame, carbon rim, handle saddle L… no jealous… well almost, no KH parts on it) with nimbus triple hole (100/125/150) VCX cranks.
I use it every day to commute (it’s as efficient and more pleasant than to ride my 29S) with the 125mm crank hole. Several times I thought I could go shorter, but 100mm is really short when there are steep sections.
That said, for someone who wants to race with an ungeared 36" (or to go down a mountain climb in 150mm), 100mm can be a good choice!
This thing is a beauty. And as much as I love my KH unis, I have to say that the brand seems stagnant lately. Whereas the others have done a lot of efforts to come up with nice stuff.
Romain from the CDK posted a video of his ultra light 36" with the carbon rim too, it’s in French but you can see automatic subtitles (get ready for some serious nonsense from the translation bot), and anyway who needs words when you can just sit and enjoy this nice rig.
@toutestbon what disc do you have on yours? I heard of the RGB frames not liking big discs.
Regarding Romain’s 36er: last time I went to his shop I weighted his uni. Well, it looks like it is a regular 26er… when it is actually a 36er. Really impressive!
Yeah, seems like the only option at the moment is to drill and thread another hole yourself.
I heard it too… after mounting a 203mm disc on it. But there are much more powerful brakes, it’s a magura MT4 (and I didn’t try to break the hub by braking harder than necessary).
A few days ago, I thought I still had problems with the spokes loosening (I retightened them several times), but this time it was the bearing cage on the disc side that loosened. Today, everything is perfectly fine.
no to 113/127/150… yes to 114/142/170. Coming in November
Thanks for replying 
I find the all black beautiful.