Yes, that’s a change too. I never mentioned it because it’s not really relevant right now. The change addresses a possible future compatibility requirement for the KH/Schlumpf hub (far in future, nothing to talk about yet).
There are still bearing housing lips on both sides of the part that’s fixed to the frame, and on the outside of the lower half, which is plenty to contain the bearing.
K.
Daniel,
From machining process point of view, it’s easier to have no lip on the bearing holder or just one lip which the case on your frame. What is really new, it’s that now bearing holder is machined ! How about frame side ? Machined as well or not ?
The housings are forged, but in large batches so there are some bearing housings left over from before. So for this latest batch a small amount of machining was required to clean up that inner lip.
To clarify that “these would be a good upgrade for any riders that had issues with Moment cranks rubbing on the frame when installed with the KH/Schlumpf hub” goes for ALL (both single and double hole) Spirit cranks? I will be trading 150/125 Moment for 137 Spirit cranks on my (M0426) geared (pre 2012 frame) 36er. I don’t ever plan to add a disc brake or switch crank holes so I might as well save $15 and get the non-disc single hole cranks. Correct?
David, are you sure you’d never want to use more than one hole length? I’m biased for flexibility and think that is worth the extra cost. I never said I was sane. 
Yes, the disk and non-disk versions are the same where they attach to the hub, except that the disk version has the spider to attach the rotor. Both have the same clearance to the frame.
Kris
I wonder when places will have the new KH frames in stock. Knowing me, I’ll likely buy the new KH26 anyway for the KH/S wheel and use the UCM on the original frame.
Been checking Compulsion Cycle and UDC daily for a week now.
FYI, weights on the Spirit cranks (except the 137/165, which I don’t have with me):
Without Disk:
110 mm: 350 g
127 mm: 388 g
137 mm: 410 g
Disk version:
110/127: 378 g
110/137: 402 g
127/150: 432 g
The disk spider on the right crank adds only 4 grams, so negligible in practical terms.
The weight reduction on the disk version is due to the second pedal hole.
Hmmmm
So I just received my package from UDC
Spirit cranks
And a new 2012 frame
I have a perfectly good 2011 frame but was keen to avoid any need to modify
So got it all together. My first crank change woo hoo
(was a pig) really hard to get the cranks off
But with all set up 
Disc rotor bolts are really rubbing the frame
I’ve tried 2 different bolt shapes and all 6 contact at some point
I don’t think I whacked the cranks onto the splines too far
Looks like I’ll have to file 1-2 mm off the outside of the frame
Exactly what I didn’t want to have to do
And exactly why I bought a new frame not a d’brake
Hmmmmmmm
Any suggestions?
try 8mm spacers instead of 6 if your cranks are tighten enough with them
Also - please can you measure the width of the bearing housings. They should be 20 mm (not 22 mm).
Is this with a geared hub or regular hub?
Kris your revised leg armor is amazing, on long rides I would get some rubbing above my knees from the old version but these new ones with the knee cup are so comfortable I genuinely forget I have them on!
My only concern is they have a fabric cover on the knee area where the old version had the same hard-wearing shiny material as the inside of the calf which makes me wonder how resilient they are?
Glad you like them!
My personal experience is that the knees get occasionally bashed (when you fall, and not always even then), whereas the inside leg and shins more frequently get hit. I’ve been testing them for over a year and the knee fabric is still in good shape.
Will measure bearing housings in the morning, I have it all packed away now
It is a geared hub, so no spacers
Seems the biggest rub is at the weld. I think I can get this to work with a file
The bolts are contacting other areas but just scratching the powdercoating
I’ll take the wheel out and take the whole housing back to bare metal with a flat file ans take some metal off the weld and try again
This is my plan for tomorrow
Even though the wheel wont turn, it looks amazing
OK that explains it. It is a tight fit with the geared hub and the slightest variation in spline size or angle on the produced hub affects the lateral position of the cranks, lacking a spacer between them and the bearing.
Kris
So I took the wheel out. I was hoping to just take the edge off the weld. But seems
All 6 bolts were gouging the paint so I filed it all back
Now the wheel will spin smoothly.
Until I put the caliper on.
Disc is really warped
Hmm guess I’m destined not to ride today
I must say however uni is looking Amazing
I’m glad I went with the frame rab not the d’brake
Love this stuff
Cranks look awesome
Was worried about the shifting braking situation but seems to work
Took a bit of fettling, but couldn’t be happier
Thank you Kris
Kris, maybe I missed it, but do you say if your disc brake tab will work with a disc hub, i.e. the Nimbus D’ Brake.
The disk mount on the KH frame won’t work for a hub mount disk brake because it’s on the right hand side. I haven’t personally tried the KH frame with a hub mount disk brake and d’brake on the left side. However, I believe that it works; you’d just have a low profile disk mount on the right side of the frame that wasn’t in use. Anyone else on this thread done that?
Kris
I will be running your new frame with my 29er oracle wheelset once my new disc arrives. Apparently LH calipers exist, but are as rare as hens teeth. Toyed with the idea of running a normal caliper upside down and changing the hose angle via an adjustable fitting; but instead going back to the d’brake.
Cheers,
Dan